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bytes2doc

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  1. Thanks for the pointer, as this did not come up in my search.
  2. The oils from Moebius have an expiration date, many of three years. That makes no sense as we do not service our watches every three years. Even the synthetic oils have expiration dates. Is the expiration date a marketing ploy to sell more product, or is there research that show breakdown of the oil properties? Do you all throw out your expensive bottles and buy fresh every three years?
  3. Well, this months pick.
  4. New to watches, I would venture a guess. Since it was behaving as expected for a full 8 days, then started to switch the date incorrectly, would imply something broke, or became misaligned, or loose at day 8. Obviously I haven’t a clue, but it’s fun to speculate! would appreciate and update when you figure it out.
  5. Nice to be a part of the group. I lurked around awhile go. Just finished level 2 of Mark’s course. I’ve been a member of the NAWCC for many years, and taken their onsite pocket watch repair course, and repaired many since. I also restore old clocks, both the case and movement. Picture attached is of a recent restore. This clock is an 1894 Ansonia that was ready for the trash pile. I am also in the midst of building a skeleton clock from brass stock. I use a Sherline lathe and mill to turn the wheels and cut the teeth. It has been many years in the making, but has taken its first ticks this year. looking forward to more learning and more work on watches. Mark has a great and easy style for learning. I’m almost finished servicing my first automatic watch I ever bought, a Tissot embedded with an ETA 2824-2. The mainspring just arrived.
  6. Clockboy-the ETA Chron dose not have the screws. Matabog - thanks, that is exactly what I was looking for. I ended up taking the stud out just as he demonstrated a few weeks back. Have you noticed if he has an example of placing that bugger back in? I don't want to kill another. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  7. Is there a video, or a detailed explanation for the proper way to remove the hairspring stud from the balance, as well as insert the stud back on to the balance bridge for the ETA Chron system, as found in a 2824-2 movement? I know there is a special tool for this and it would be nice to see that demonstrated if nothing else than to see the force required, but also a way to do the detachment and reattachment if you don't have that special tool (as in my situation). I tried pushing the stud back in between the forks with a screw-driver, which slipped and, well, that was the end of that. At least I had another complete balance and main spring assembly and do not want to kill another one. Any help/pointers is greatly appreciated. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  8. Nope, that is what I was saying as well but did not find what I was expecting. This balance does not have that. Notice how in the above picture point A is twisted on the regulator arm. It appears that this twist is what holds the spring in place. I straightened this out and the spring comes right out. Now the end of the spring is "glued" to the end stud, point B in the picture, and come this way when you order the balance spring. Does anyone have experience/advice for taking this off the regulator? It looks like a simple snap fit between the forks, but I don't know if I should try and release some tension on the forks by applying and twisting a screwdriver at the small end of the fork behind the stud. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  9. On a related note. I'm also at this point but I'm replacing the balance wheel as I have a broken pivot. How does one disengage the hairspring from the index regulator, point A ? I was expecting a small slot to turn the post out of the way but don't see that. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. Greetings and salutations all! New to the forum and thought I would introduce myself. After trashing a pocket watch I picked up at a flee-market I joined the NAWCC and took a weekend course on pocket watch repair, that was back in 2009 as I recall, when I lived close the NAWCC headquarters. I've been fixing PW ever since, as well as acquiring tools and books of the trade, which seems to be an entire hobby by itself. I very recently have become interested in repairing wrist watches. I picked up my first vintage non-running Elgin on eBay and got it running again, as it just needed a good cleaning. Recently I signed up for the timezone watch school level 2 and I'm in the midst of repairing a ETA 2824-2 encased in my Tissot two-tone Ballade III. I've had this watch since 2006 and it stopped working last year. Once apart I found that the stem had significant rust on it and that the pivots on the balance wheel were broken. A new balance wheel just arrived yesterday, so I'm off on that project again. I do have a lot of tools for watch making as I picked a lot up from a guy who retired, also from the net, and a wonderful watchmaker's bench from an extra that a watch maker had. After removing 4 layers of paint the bench is beautiful in it's original condition. I have a nice watch maker's lathe with collets I picked up on eBay, and lucked out in that it is in perfect condition. I still have not mastered making staffs. My other Horology interest is clock making. However this is a first attempt. I'm using Bill Smith's plans on building a skeleton clock. The plates are cut, the pillars complete, the drum barrel and arbor along with the teeth have been cut and assembled. I manufactured my own tool bit to cut the ratchet teeth. I need to purchase a special wheel cutter for the train wheels. My current watch collection consists of a Brietling Navitimer Limited Edition, the one with an in-house movement, a Tissot Ballade III, and a Seiko kinetic. Sorry for being so long winded, but happy I found you guys.
  11. I've started using a US and cleaning with pure mineral spirits and rinsing in denatured alcohol, without any problems and no residue that I can see. Any one see a problem with this technique?
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