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Esslinger have 0.9/1.10 stem extensions ... They call that "stem extenders". I think it would be better to cut the extension first, short enough so that the 0.9 connector is as close to the crown as possible, then cut the 0.9 stem to the right length. That's the way I do and I've never had any problem. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk

As the dial feet sits outside of the movement. Maybe the the part screw is loose enough to be removed with a small screwdriver? Or maybe it will come out when you clean it. Do you have a ultrasonic cleaner. If so test to clean it first. Those screws has a tendency to rattle out if not tighten up before Ultrasonic.

I've done so with a very fine slitting saw in a mill with some success, but the screw was large compared to watch sized (more like pocket watch/travel clock). I' have some the of the files for the screw slot as in the link below. I think I tried it once with the file and concluded it is bloody difficult and the file seemed too big. It needs a very steady hand and I think a largish pocket watch sized screw to work, at least that was my limited experience with it. https://www.eternaltools.com/screw-head-slotting-file

Here you go : https://www.esslinger.com/watch-parts-watch-stem-extender/ Select Tap10(0.9)/Tap8(1.1) ... should do the job and only 2$ [emoji6] Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk

Normally there is this thing called a stem extension. You can get one that is 1,1mm on one end and 0,9mm on the other end. The problem is that, as far as I know, it would only work on really long stems, otherwise you wouldn't have enough room to fit it. This also requires that you cut the original stem...

If the above methods preferred don't work the link below will be helpful. Just be careful that the main plate doesn't have any posts or anything else made out of steel or they will disappear also https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/8678-correct-way-to-use-alum-any-advice-please/#comment-82152

I believe you're 100 % right about that! To my eyes they look identical! Thank you very much!

Welcome to this friendly forum. Nice to know another that is interested in clocks.

That can't be a ST96 movement. Looks more like a cortebert . Almost sure it's a Peseux 7040 now that i look on ranfft. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&2&2uswk&Peseux_7040

Here is a walkthrough on repairing an ST96. I’ve been retired for many years. Could this be a Chinese copy? https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/694-st96-restoration-walkthrough/

You are right it is an easy piece to work on. Just be careful when letting down the mainspring.

Welcome and good wishes for the old clock repairs. Mike.

This is a timepiece, because there is no strike or chime. It has lantern pinions and open mainspring with an open anchor escapement. The more I look at it, I think it could be German or as an outside bet French. Its strange not to have any numbers at all on the movement. The design is basic and would not have cost very much. When I first glanced at the case, I thought it might have been a reproduction and made in Korea or Japan but it is not. It certainly is not American. I hope this helps.

Welcome Murt, Thats how I started & just got hooked, Enjoy the forum.

Following up - we're all set with a new autowind module, thanks to an eBay vendor parting out a 6106C. Now for a new mainspring... I was out of town for several days and project Seiko lost momentum. I hope to get it wrapped up shortly, and wear my college watch again! ;-) thanks again, Gryf

That’s nice to know. You can never stop learning. The internet was not around when I was an apprentice. I learned from my master. It just goes to show I’m an old fart. I enjoy the forum so much in helping others with knowledge that I have gained over the years.

Hello, I am new to this forum, hope to be joining the right thread. While watching Mark's course, I ordered my first tools and the clone movement. But it takes an astonishing 50 days for them to arrive... So to gain time, and procrastinate a bit from my real work (lute making) I started making a few basic tools. But finding the right profiles to copy is challenging. So many angles for the hand levers... I chose 30 degrees, and repurposed some useless screwdrivers I had around. Next the oil containers..which size? Is it critical to have small concave pools? Or they can be 8-10 mm wide? I used some camera lenses, with concave surfaces. Cannot imagine something closer to the agathe or cristal used on the professional ones. For the caps, I used more lenses. The container seems tight enough to hold the dust outside, while good enough to concentrate the puddle of oil on the center. One interesting effect I found is that with the cap (the second lenses) I can see magnified how contaminated my oil already is... Then the oil needles.. The shape is easy to copy, once you find close images of fine oilers, but what kind of surface transports oil best? Shiny or matte? ( when cleaning the dippers, it seems that a shiny surface is best for assuring nothing remains on the tool..)

Made in Croydon circa 1938, a lovely example of a pin pallet movement. Sadly I sacrificed two hairsprings to achieve the geometry I was looking for. Very pleased with the accuracy given its age. I’d love to put it on a timegrapher to check the beat error. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk