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ebay purchase movement, which is OK, except the second hand post was missing. Probably why sold as spares or repair. Also have found one of the dial screws is missing Fortunately tracked the movement down on www.ranftt.de and then on www.oldswisswatches.com, and tracked the movement down as an AS1674 and luckily found the part on ebay (the part cost more than the movement!!) Case will be 3 pieces: case back with movement holder, case body with lugs, and bezel. Raw materials; Case back with movement holder in brass. 2 pieces of 3mm brass sheet to get the thickness Case body will be steel tube, with brass lugs silver soldered on. Plan to blue the case body to see how it looks against the brass. Bezel will be polished mild steel The picture just shows the second hand post in in place and movement seems to be working fine (not cleaned) Left to do is bezel, dial, dial markings, hands, glass and crown - fingers crossed!!

And I hate to have to be the one to say it but trying to DIY your watch repairs (as a troubled owner) is rarely a good idea, ignoring the cost of tools... well, with advice you might manage the job fine, but you're more likely to make it worse than better. True enough if the crown just came unscrewed from the stem it's not that complicated a task, but I'm thinking that from the perspective of someone who was trained and tasked regularly to do that sort of thing. My advice? avoid manufacturers, they're almost always the most expensive source of repair. Find an independent or established watch repair business. (one that makes a point of doing repairs on site) If I understand your problem correctly the internal part of the winder has come unscrewed from the external part of the winder? (it's a bigger problem if it has snapped off) There's no reason you couldn't get them re secured for a small fraction of £150, I'm thinking anywhere between £20-50 depending on how highly the watch repairer/business value their service/time and what kind of guarantee they offer.

I use one of these, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VARIISPEED-PLUG-IN-FAN-SPEED-CONTROLLER-FOR-GROW-TENT-LIGHT-HYDROPONICS-RVK/281377547205?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D38661%26meid%3D6998aa844c574fd1a6744cbc84d864bc%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D331960893392 You will have to take off the foot pedal fitting on the motor and rewire and fit a standard three pin plug to use it. As with all things electrical if your not sure how to do this leave alone.

I wrote to Braun asking how to open this watch & this is the reply I received today:

Yes you use Loctite on the end of the stem in the crown to lock it in place. Just be very careful that the Loctite isn't protruding out and somehow gets into the watch.

Original post wasn't too clear, I had batteries changed locally twice and had issue with sporadic time, sent it to Saltzman Watch in Rhode Island as they were the Luminox authorized repair center. Warranty was not honoured because it was bought 3rd party on amazon. Repair bill was for new battery and replace stem and crown. It was about $100 + shipping, so about $150 for me, don't have the original bill handy right now. It was fine for about a year, then the crown came out, it was outside the warranty to get it fixed at Saltzman, and I didn't want to pay another $100-150 to fix it again, so it sat in a box. I disassembled the watch, re-attached the crown to the stem, gave it a cleaning. When I go to re-insert the stem, it's default position is the day change function. So just rubbing against the crown it will turn and adjust the date. How do you position it so by default, the crown doesn't operate any functions (date/time)? All else is good right now. Attached picture of current status.

I just realized in looking at the pics in the post from John, the watch has the wrong balance n it the hairspring on an 1130 post is in a different position allowing the hairspring to clear the screw on the balance bridge it drops the spring before it gets to that area, on "mine" it drops the spring under the bridge and just barely rubs the bridge probably affecting the spring travel. When I bought a replacement Balance complete I matched what was in there nit realizing the beat difference change., at looking at an 1130 it would need no hairspring adjustment to fit in place as the 1170 did, ( I have installed other balance completes and they have been a perfect drop in) there is local one for $280 dollars I guess I have no choice but to buy that one and try it since you cant get just a hairspring. most of them are asking $400 anyway. , I will keep the 1570 balance as it is like a saving account!!! I am sure it will go up.. I wish I hadn't of sold all my Rolex parts last year after seeing the prices I retired in the late 90's and just put all those parts away. now I am seeing even though I profited from them I could have saved them now that I have found my way back to working on watches again THANKS GUYS!! (yes im shouting crazy old git,, with happiness!!)

I dont know, I think that may defeat the object of having a handy variable controller because you would still have to depress the foot pedal to get power to the motor, I think with electrics its best to keep things simple. I would have liked to use a dimmer switch type fan controller because that would have looked neater on my lathe which is mounted on a MDF board but B and Q seem to have stopped stocking these near where I live, so I opted for the plug in controller. I

Wearing a Citizen Ana-digi with 8920 movement which I got a few weeks back. All functions work well but the water-resistance is kaput. I'm enjoying while I can but this watch will not last forever as the plastics and electronics will degrade even if kept in an air-tight/light-proof container and buried in a coal mine. Dial is one of those which appear blue from some angles and black from another. The pushers still have its original colour coding .. Happy New Year all! Anilv

Escapement oiled Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Is there too much end shake on the balance staff? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Pivots look straight by eye and shine ĺike they are polished. Thanks, Tom

Did you check if the upper balance pivot is bent or there is dirt or corrosion on the cone of the pivot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

How to Improve the Watch-O-Scope Microphone Sound The ability of the WOS software is unbeatable in itself. It is a powerful tool for the analysis of mechanical watches. However, getting an appropriate signal from the clock or mechanism to be analyzed is a problem. These are the reasons. 1. A clock with a very weak sound 2. A microphone with inefficient design. 3. improper shielding of the cable that leads the signal to the pre-amplifier. 4. An environment where sound sources abound. Which are not few: transformer, cell phone chargers, laptop chargers. Fluorescent tubes, saving lamps, monitors, etc. About this, they can change from person to person and from what I've seen they change from moment to moment in an environment or space. 5. As expected, each watch has a particular pattern of frequencies that produce its characteristic tick-tock. My proposal and that has worked very efficiently is as follows. A. Make an analysis of the "noise" produced by the microphone with the aid of a spectrum analyzer. I am using Spectra Plus 5.0 B. Make an attenuation of all annoying frequencies. (Those in the 60 or 50 Hz network). This we do with the help of APO EQ, and the PEACE EQ extension. C. Make a gain in the frequencies that most clocks represent. Same as APO EQ + PEACE. (This is based on the document that indicates which are the most outstanding frequencies in the majority of watches. http://www.iaeng.org/publication/WCE2007/WCE2007_pp624-629.pdf D. Check the microphone with a suitable watch. STEP ONE. ANALYSIS OF THE MICROPHONE SPECTRUM WITHOUT A CLOCK TO LISTEN Here you can see a lot of noise. Most annoying is the noise of the network near 60 Hz. In my country the network is 60 Hz. You can also see the harmonics. But everything below 4 Khz. THIS IS THE RESULT: The microphone. There is no watch for analysis. The result is a clean signal. STEP 3 CHECK THE MICROPHONE. This is the microphone without applying the PEACE EQ AND APO EQ. Here we see the result of the filter. We can see it on the WOS screen. Scope. With the application of the PEACE + APO EQ filter. ANOTHER EXAMPLE OF HOW TO IMPROVE SIGNALING BY APO EQ + PEACE The noise almost fades the watch signal which is very quiet. Although the watch is inside a steel case and very quiet, an appropriate signal can be obtained for analysis. I hope you continue to enjoy just like me "wasting time with the clocks." Guido

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So looking at what you've written thinking no no no then feeling really really really stupid. This of course is why I got a timing machine at least one of the reasons. Timing machines also helps you diagnose things that can't be seen on the graphical display there really a must have and now affordable very affordable thanks to the Chinese. So you look at my image were seeing the balance swing from one extreme to the other and amplitude is one half of that. So the video was still helpful without a timing machine we see that the complete oscillation is roughly 270 and you're running one half 135 that which is very very bad. So what is a good amplitude? Before we get the numbers as amplitude decreases everything bad in the watch gets magnified. So as you go falling in amplitude positional errors increase the effect of the escapement in a bad way increases Or simplistically timing flies out the window. Then for numbers we have issues in that whose numbers you want to look at? Some watch companies will tell you when the watches fully serviced it should have amplitude between certain degrees but a modern Rolex for instance is going to time differently than antique American pocket watch. Then companies like Omega publish the minimum amplitude at the end of 24 hours. Then some timing machine companies in their documentations will have recommendations but it all depends on the watch. Rolex watches will typically go at least 48 hours so at 24 hours that's only 50% of the power reserve you going to get a different amplitude than we are with a pocket watch. Omega while listing minimums for most their various watches also has a chart for their antique watches. They listed by size and they never made or at least are not acknowledging of making a pocket watch this size. So the minimum they have is 180° unless it's a tiny ladies watch that can go 160°. Rolex 200° minimum for all their watches with a maximum for two of them at 280 otherwise 300°. Then Witschi has a couple PDFs on timing mechanical watches found below and they have recommendations. I've attached an image out of the first PDF below. Then as a reminder timing in one position dial up or dial down isn't always the best as usually gives you the best amplitude. So it always helps to put in at least one pendant position. http://www.witschi.com/assets/files/sheets/Witschi Training Course.pdf http://www.witschi.com/assets/files/sheets/Test and measuring technology mechanical watches.pdf

you had to go and show a zeppelin. man! i love their designs. i keep looking at these on a regular basis. it's on my (ever growing) list. i didn't know who's movement was used in this watch.

OH is quite correct in that you need to remove the dial in order to access the click and safely let down the main spring. CB has also provided the service manual which if followed will result in an effectively serviced Timex. Contrary to popular opinion Timex watches were manufactured with servicing in mind and Timex had in place the supply of all spare parts for exactly this purpose. The servicing procedures that Timex outline in the servicing manual were specifically developed to facilitate a simpler and cheaper approach to servicing a movement which was itself designed with this approach to servicing in mind. I get the feeling that a lot of he more traditional watchmakers got frustrated with Timex movements because rather than adopting the Timex procedures they tried to fully disassemble the watch to clean it and subsequently struggled to reassemble it, resulting in a hatred and disrespect for the brand. Looked after the way that Timex intended, they are perfectly capable time keepers (not Rolex precision granted, but perfectly adequate) and significantly more robust than the fully jewelled, 10x the price, Swiss alternatives. I've never come across a "V-Conic" balance with a broken pivot for instance.

Stuart, Take a look at this before making a final decision. A basic package can be purchased from Sincere for far less than this more complete set. I purchased one years ago and have been very happy with it. Both Colin Andrews (The Great British Watch Company) and Mark Lovick (Watch Repair Channel) have these machines. I am happy with mine and I have not heard any bad reviews on this equipment. david

I'm a righty too... Today is the turn of my Vertex Revue Allproof. In need of some attention to the lume which I will have to get around to sometime, this one has a rather nice 17 jewel cal.350 inside the all stainless steel case which is conveniently stamped 1973 inside.

Here's what got wrist time today. It's a lightly modified Seiko 6309-7029. I gotta do some surgery because it stops intermittently. The hands need to be cleaned. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

So here it is. The rest of the discution you can find here: http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/604-do-it-yourself-timing-machine/page-12#entry29585

Hello Ken, The Timex mechanical was a very clever answer to making a cheap, reliable, everyday watch for the masses. I don't think it was ever designed to be serviced like a Swiss watch as it was cheap enough to throw away. Probably the safest and easiest way to clean one is to remove the hands and dial and run the movement through a cleaning machine or leave soaking in lighter fluid and agitate now and again. When clean and dry re-oil where needed, adjust end shake on the balance and it should be up and running.