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As an Ex pro photographer (still do a bit from time to time) I have several really good cameras, but I tend to use my Canon G12 for photographing my watches which are placed inside a light tent with strobe/Flash heads supplying the light, great if you have a studio and everything available 24/7, However, the little G12 with some cheap aquarium LED Lamps works just as well, one of my other hobbies is keeping marine corals and fish, so I purchased a few spare lamps just in case on ebay for £7.00 each, BARGIN. A couple of examples below. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hidom-Overhead-LED-Clip-on-Aquarium-Fish-Tank-Lighting-Lights-Lamp-Flexible-Arm-/141395741658?var=&hash=item20ebd7cbda:m:mElwY3N0URqJfPcTxpodKyA http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aquarium-Fish-Tank-LED-Clip-Light-Lighting-Lamp-Flexible-Arm-White-Blue-Color-UK-/221374247602?var=&hash=item338aeef2b2:m:mVePNbWSKk3RinaFBpdpc5Q

I've had this before only a 2836 & found that the one of the screws holding down the automatic works was the wrong one & as such the head was hitting the rotor when it was tightened.

Jeff, I also bought the same watch. Super reliable, and keeps very accurate time. I cleaned the case inside and out and the crystal, it looks like a brand new watch. I noticed, however, that it was missing the movement mounting screws. The ones that keep the movement/dial restrained to the inside of the case. Would you happen to know what size they are? I'm trying to find replacements on line.

Every year the high end watch and jewelry folks get together and show off their wares. I'm the curious type, so I go out and search for the latest offerings. Not that I could ever afford such items, just curious. I was surprised to find some of the more mundane or less than big ticket manufactures, have made it to the big time, (or at least they were willing to spend the money to be there!) Under http://www.baselworld.com/en-US/Show/DailyNews.aspx there are some interesting .pdf's and epapers, (I would choose the latter) with all kinds of good reads, (my opinion) on the famous and not so famous brands, okay some of the girl models are nice to look at....I may be on a diet, (married) but does not mean I can't look at the menu! Even if I could afford some of these brands, they probably would not be on my must get list. It's just incredible some of the mfg processes go in to these some of these timepieces, whilst some are massed produced. Enjoy!

Hi - I regret to say that sales of any kind are not permitted on the forum - which includes notes of or postings about eBay sales as well. Regards, Will

I promise, I won't do this to you guys every day but I wanted to do one more "watch of the day" pic:) Below is a beautiful Lord Elgin that I picked up for under 25 dollars. She runs so well, it is typically +/- 0 seconds per day, maybe 1 second off! Beat error is always between 0.2-0.5 with perfect amplitude readings. It sports an Elgin 990 17 Jewel Swiss movement and was serviced prior to my purchase. (this one was very much cared for) Tonight, I will be polishing her up and replacing the crystal.

The screw at 1 o'clock in your pic just holds the balance cap jewel plate in place (which should be removed for cleaning) and has no connection to the hair spring.

I should look for broken or worn teeth on minute wheel and the cannon pinion, the same in the clutch wheel in fact everything to do with setting the hands.

9501 is a high friction grease and it is best practice to use this for at least the canon pinion and the setting lever/setting lever spring. You can substitute the expensive 9501 with Molycote DX which is very cheap to buy.

Mark, could you have a look at my question a couple of posts ago? I'm looking for a substitute for 9501 when servicing a chronograph. I have HP 1300, Molykote dx and kt22. Thanks!

Great! Thanks again, guys.

Those are beautiful JD.

I believe it is a Panerai style case (?) Or at least that's what I call it.

Sorry and will do

Yes I know that now but at time I did not.

Mcass...just assemble what you can and photograph the result PLUS the bits that you are not sure about and post the photos here. Someone will be able to help you out, for sure.

I did have a Bergeon lift tool but at the time was struggleing with low domb crystels so purchased the Chinese one to see if it would work better. However I just found the build was crap & just did not work yes I suppose I could file & dress the claws but what a per larva. As the saying goes you get what you pay for.

totally agree with what you said.

If purchasing one DON'T buy the cheap Chinese version they don,t work. Purchase the Bergeon made one.

Hi buzz, Yes, the height is mainly the thickness of the movement. Pretend the quartz movement is a waffle and the hour wheel is the little butter some restaurants put on top: The thickness is the waffle without the butter. Some distributors call "total height" and measure from the bottom of the waffle to the top of the butter which is a different measurement. I've found both measurements help since some movements are made with a taller "butter" therefore their thickness is the same but the total height differ among them. Then, manufacturers make different heights (either one) because of case design. Some cases offer less space for the movement than others...just a matter of design and manufacturing...and even marketing I suppose. In the Miyota case, I would check also the diameter of the movement just in case there is still something similar. Check for a familiar resemblance on your supplier's database (they post pictures) but the most important is the height. As digginstony said, the height is the important one, the shape can always be "filled up" to meet your requirements with an adapter or something. Also, by getting the same manufacturer's movement (from the old one) you are playing safe (although not always) to ensure the dial will fit the replacement (newer) movement. One word of caution: check the hands hole size. Those should match the specs of the new movement (one more reason to look the newer stuff from the SAME manufacturer as the old one) otherwise you will have to get newer hands and some Miyotas are difficult to get. Bottom line, the more similarities of the new movement with the old, the less you will have to "improvise". I hope it helps, Cheers, Bob

BBC4 tonight - great programme on automata - on as I write!

Is the platform the rectangular plate that the balance cock is screwed onto? Yes that's correct. Here is a photo of a contrite wheel a very worn one that I got from google images. The escape wheel is the wheel that is fitted into the platform between the cylinder and the contrite wheel.

To all: Polywatch is a plastic polish BUT it is way overpriced for what it does. Buy a tube of Simichrome and polish the plastic and/or crystal with that. MUCH cheaper and it works on all metals as well. Win win:D

You can buy paint-type markers...I think the brand is "Posca". Even Pentel make some paint markers. They'll permanently mark watch and clock hands easily but go e a s y with the pressure you apply.

To adjust the beat you will have to slightly rotate the collet that hold the hairspring onto the staff. It has a split in it, and if you are very careful you can do this by using a screwdriver inserted into the slot and twisting slightly. The two screws that you mention hold the regulator assembly together.

I have had a few custom jobs in recently whereas painting some of the hands was required, not for the faint hearted! Took a while to mix the paint right, and get it to flow onto the hand with a good enough finish ready for the final clear coat.

Haha, I remember watching some guy on youtube painting his watch hands with a sharpie. For a red second hand, I think your only options are to either paint it red with model paint or completely replace it with a red second hand. The sharpie probably gave it a more electro plated effect though, and I doubt that could be done on the cheap or for you to find someone willing to do it. For value, it depends on what the watch is.

New one, relumed yesterday, and put together this morning. Don't know why but all the luminous was missing when I bought it. Also missing lum from the second hand. Relumed and replaced missing lum dot on case.

JSlim - what is a "bridge camera"? i've not heard that term before. i agree wholeheartedly with Will. i own a canon T3 that is very capable, but i also use some of the older SD lenses because i like the manual focus capability. but the 50mm lenses i use are NOT that great. they don't live up to the capability of the camera. i need better lenses. also, do not discount the simple phone camera. i know - heresy. but some of the best pictures of my stuff has come from my droid camera. the phone cameras are far and away better than they were only a few years ago. for most people, it's the only camera that they have, so phone manufacturers are making them better all of the time.

I'll join you - here's my Lord Elgin Clubman, Cal. 680:

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I actually talked my local watch shop into selling me small amounts of the oils. They said since I am a good customer they wouldn't mind me bringing my oil cups down for a small fee of $15! I guess it pays to be a loyal customer sometimes.