Jump to content

Automatic Movement Rotor Repair Fell Off!


Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Dropped my watch and the rotor fell of the movement.  I tried pushing it back on and it keeps falling off.  Obviously I should not glue it, but does anyone know how to fix this?  Or am I better off just taking it out completely and only using the winder?  I would prefer automatic without winding. 

Thanks!

image1 (4).png

image2 (3).png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe this type of rotor is friction fit into the ball bearings component that is still on the movement.

When you say that you pushed it back did you succeed or would it just not fit ? Normally you would have to use special tools to re-attach the rotor. Some sort of a press thing that presses the rotor back into the ball bearing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried pushing it on by hand and it fit.  But a few min later after I put the case back on, the rotor fell off again.  So I guess the issue is that it no longer is fitting tightly and just keeps falling off.  Is the ball bearing adjustable i.e. via the screw?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The rotor is friction fitted onto the bearing. Be careful when pushing on the rotor while still attached to the watch. You should remove the bearing by undoing the centre screw and re fit the rotor using a staking tool. If the rotor it still loose then perhaps loctite might secure it but I must say this is an unusual fault. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The screw is there to take off the rotor completely (rotor attached to the ball bearing that is).

It is possible that the rotor's hole may have loosened up a bit. I'm not sure what the experts suggest here but you could try super glue and it should fix the issue but you'd have to remove the ball bearing as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This looks like an ETA 2824-2 movement if I am not mistaken, as confirmed above the bearing is a friction fit in the oscillating weight.

Mark has a video about bearing replacement for this movement, see https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FL-MC4TKp84&ebc=ANyPxKoYSvYWIWx-fAQjyYh0GtXISkSZ0cxFwGTpDQeIfqNW4KxX3xjYHDCTfEa28dXqSNcqvfXOX-H9wyIDcUjvtuEwE5r6lQ

 

if the hole is too large to allow good friction you always have the option to purchase a new oscillating weight + bearing assembly, swiss part number 1143, available from CousinsUK and I am sure other places.

Edited by oli
Spelling
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can someone please link me some options?  I am seeing many are marked with brand names on them or different jewel amounts so I want to be sure I get a compatible one.  Or would any generic (regardless of markings on it) 1143/1 oscillating weight and rotor be fine?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 minutes ago, radbrad777 said:

Can someone please link me some options?  I am seeing many are marked with brand names on them or different jewel amounts so I want to be sure I get a compatible one.  Or would any generic (regardless of markings on it) 1143/1 oscillating weight and rotor be fine?

Before you rush to buy anything.At this point you don't know if the problems is with the rotor, the bearing, or both that have been machines so slightly off specification. So you might end with a rotor that won't hold either. I suggest that you try first to repair what you have. A possible way could be placing the center of the rotor, say 0.10mm around the hole with steel dies under a press, so to deform it very slighty and allow to friction fit again. any decent machine shop should be able to do this for you 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it fits without any play, then JDM suggestion has merits.

I recommend some Loctite 660 but if you're only going to use it for this part then a replacement rotor off ebay would be cheaper.

Good luck.

Anilv

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it were mine I would try to replace it with an authentic part rather than one that is just "compatible" I would resort to using some sort of adhesive only as a last and temporary option. Removing the bearing and trying to properly press it back into the rotor would be my first step, a staking set properly used could tighten the hole enough for a good fit. Just my opinion. ....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I must admit it is a mystery why it has came loose. The friction fit is a tight friction fit so for it to be loose it must have been forced off at some point. I would check the bearing and also check the rotor because it has to be balanced ie not settle in the same position.  If loctite does not work I would just purchase a new rotor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, khunter said:

Removing the bearing and trying to properly press it back into the rotor would be my first step, a staking set properly used could tighten the hole enough for a good fit.

The alloy used in these parts can be surprising hard. I have no direct experience, but possibly an hand hammered stacking set won't do anything to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, jdm said:

The alloy used in these parts can be surprising hard. I have no direct experience, but possibly an hand hammered stacking set won't do anything to it.

Agreed, however it's almost always my inclination to try to repair something using the least intrusive method possible first. I would think that the rotor is some kind of brass/bronze, possibly plated but nonetheless fairly malleable.. I know from the one Rolex automatic I have repaired that the rotor there was a nickel plated brass piece. Replacement with an authentic part would be ideal, even if it's from a scrap unit, but glue would be my last choice. Just my 2 cents... :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, khunter said:

Agreed, however it's almost always my inclination to try to repair something using the least intrusive method possible first. I would think that the rotor is some kind of brass/bronze, possibly plated but nonetheless fairly malleable.. I know from the one Rolex automatic I have repaired that the rotor there was a nickel plated brass piece. Replacement with an authentic part would be ideal, even if it's from a scrap unit, but glue would be my last choice. 

Totally agree, but as I said already the problem could be in the bearing, as the rotor appears to be perfect in picture. Blindly get another then it if doesn't work is time and money spent, frustration gained. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi all -

Thanks for the informative answers.  I think I will start by using a little Loctite 222 and see if that helps with the issue.  I will unscrew and take out the bearing, use a toothpick for a very light layer of the Loctite on the inside of the rotor, and press the rotor back in (and let dry).  Hopefully this works.  Does this sound like a good plan?

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have removed the stem and open the case. The Movement can't drop out but it can be rotate Anyone has idea THANK YOU
    • Not a family member, and yes, it no way near as good, as some information got lost from original site and some information got incorrectly copied. The original site is available as iOS app here: https://apps.apple.com/fi/app/ranfft-watch-movements-archive/id6502008939
    • Outstanding, Marc! Your information is really helpful and clears this up, especially given that yours were purchased as sets. Thanks, man. So, it appears I jumped the gun on this one, but I am relieved. I will say, though, that all of my reamers and concave pushers are number-stamped and appear to be of better quality.  Also, the bayonets on my pushers are actually the same color as the steel.  The next thing to do is restore the heads of these pushers with some polishing paper.  Alex at the Watch Repair channel has a nice little video on this.   I appreciate your help! Frank      
    • Just installed it on my iPhone (my only iOS device) and it appears to be intact and functional. I may have to go out and buy myself an ipad just for this app.
    • I have two Seitz sets, one ancient (with the 3mm anvils) and one just old (with 4mm anvils) plus a collection of spare pushers of assorted vintage. Not one of them is marked with it's size. Something which I have found very irritating when I have been using the tool and not returning pushers to their correct place in the tray every time as it means that I have to get the calipers out and measure them. These were bought as sets and collectively I have over 100 pushers so it would seem highly unlikely (if not inconceivable) that they are all cheap knock offs, especially as they are old enough to pre-date the prevalence of the Chinese knock off industry (at least as applied to watch making tools). I therefore believe them to be original Seitz parts. And there is no numbering. The shape of the bottom of the pump pushers is the same as your photo. The only thing that may not be the same is that the slotted insert (looks like a screw but is in fact a bayonet) should be brass. Yours looks the same colour as the steel but that could just be the lighting.
×
×
  • Create New...