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Thanks a lot. And back to my question on taking the case to bare brass, I guess nobody does it because it will tarnish quickly and look like carp? Are there any UK suppliers of custom dial decals who'd accept a vector file for a dial? I'm coming around to the following plan, I hope it's reasonable: 1) Keep learning about movement parts & function. 2) Get the basic tools, hand-cleaning supplies, cheapest sensible lubrication (m8000 + moly?); 3) Get old pocket watch or ST36 (£18 delivered to my door - this might be hard to beat even with ebay prices). Strip & reassemble a dozen times. Breaking it in the process won't be the end of the world. 4) Get servicing the ingersoll & benrus without breaking them; Alternatively, Buy Seiko NH35 movement, service, assemble a custom watch in a cheapo chinese case. 6) Try not to buy too many broken old watches on ebay, but start thinking about what calibre I want to work with and focus on that. 7) Assuming I'm still at it, try plating a case. -
As you're finding out with electromechanical or analog quartz watches the number one problem would be lubrication goes bad with time and the watches need to be cleaned and then preferably lubricated with a light lubricant specifically designed for quartz watches as they do not like heavy oils. Then it really be nice if you had better test equipment which you don't have but if you really insist on soldering you could just temporarily solder a quartz crystal across the large crystal. Typically if they go bad which? Well we haven't actually established that it's gone bad yet and because you don't have any test equipment it makes it hard to do that but if you want to guests based on your link that it is the quartz crystal typically they would break although these are pretty heavy quartz crystal so breaking isn't maybe what happens but if you think your quartz crystals broken typically it would be open see you could solder another quartz crystal just right on top of it initially to see if that solves your problem in that if it solves your problem just take the old one out and put the new one in. Otherwise it something else which brings up the problem of working on electrical devices you need test equipment. -
By RichardHarris123 · Posted
Not these, they're brass. -
I don't know how many corrections I ended up doing, but I eventually got this watch running well. At least, as well as can be expected of a 40+ year old Russian watch from the Soviet Union. I've been wearing it for a couple of weeks now and it's accurate to within a minute or two a day which I think is reasonable. I followed @nevenbekriev's always helpful instructions and I also had to make the outer coil go a little lower so that the overcoil would not hit the cock (with a little twist 180 degrees away), and I also had to adjust where the overcoil joins the stud. I adjusted the rest position of the impulse jewel to be central before reassembling. I ended up with a beat error of a little over 2ms and decided that was good enough for me on this watch. -
In addition to the servicing guides do you have all of these supplemental information that Omega has? The reason I bring this up is the service guides might cover lubrication but things like epilam aren't always covered not mentally get to the newest generation of documents where it might actually mentions in the technical work normally it's in the supplemental guide? By mixing did you mean one drop of one oil mixed in with one drop of another oil to make a new lubrication or what exactly? Oh and I've attached a PDF the lubrication guide which by the way I do not follow sort of. Notice on the very bottom of the page a reference to? I just copy and paste something from the bottom The Synt-HP oils (9101, 9102, 9103, 9104) are preferentially in use for ruby bearings. For brass bearings, we recommend Microgliss D-4 or D-5. Notice for ruby bearings you can use the HP oils but if you're dealing with metal on metal you're not supposed to. Except this now conflicts with other aspects of Swatch group including Omega. Then the D series Are not synthetic so they have a shorter life? Then lubrication is such a bazaar subject with a very opinionated people and a considerable conflict with various documentation of depending upon who you look at. For instance you look at their recommendations for balance 9010 or 8000 which are both very light oils unless you're working in Arctic conditions. Oh then attaching another PDF. What makes this PDF interesting as far as I'm concerned is we have a company that actually grasps lubrication versus probably just about everybody else. Basically any time using 9010 are supposed to epilam everything including the balance staff pivots although finding that out as little bit harder. Typically anytime using HP oils you're supposed to be epilam ing as it has a habit of migrating without epilam. But personal experience has been 9020 will stay in place although that's just my personal observation for what it's worth. Then we have this silly company the oil of choice 9020. So if you look they lubricate the entire watch with only three lubricants they have a grease I would you something different I like 9504 they have 9020 I love 9020 and they have the grease for the escapement oh and you're not mistaken that using 9020 on the balance pivots other than me as far as I had tell they're the only ones. As I'm typically not working on little tiny watches my lubrication of choice is 9020 for the balance pivots for the gear train for the center wheel I usually use HP 1300 but I can probably use 9020 there I am suspicious when at the bottom of lubrication chart the reference to not to use HP lubricants on metal on metal we don't get an answer of why other then I believe you need epilam. This is where a lot of companies use the HP 1300 on the key less and they epilam the entire T list to keep it from spreading all over the universe. tableEN lubrication watches.pdf PIAGET 12p.pdf
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