Jump to content

Waltham Traveller 16S

transporter

By transporter
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted
On 26/03/2016 at 3:41 PM, jdrichard said:

Strange because they all start with A and 5 numbers not 6??

Not really must watch makers had their own code when it came to marking. This way I said only the repairer would know. This is a practice I never ever did. I kept a book with every repair carried out, with the antique clocks I would right up all the work carried out including parts made and hand the list and old parts to the owner.

  • Like 1
jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
Posted
Not really must watch makers had their own code when it came to marking. This way I said only the repairer would know. This is a practice I never ever did. I kept a book with every repair carried out, with the antique clocks I would right up all the work carried out including parts made and hand the list and old parts to the owner.

Good insight. Now for the second last question, how do I remove the stem from this watch without disassembling it? Is these a trick.

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

You pull the stem as to set the hands, turn the two case screws, take the bezel off and the movement should come out, you might need to give it a light push.

Alaskamick WRT Addict

Alaskamick

Posted
Posted (edited)

If you still want to remove the stem you first have to take the movement out as described by oldhippy.

You should rarely have to remove the stem but if you need to, with the movement out, push the crown back in to extend the amount of square stem showing inside the case. Grip the stem carefully across the square with small pliers then using the fingers of your other hand unscrew the crown from the stem. ( Some watches have a small grub screw through the crown so loosen that )

You will then need a special shaped tool to unscrew the adjuster inside the tube where the crown fits. The stem and adjuster sleeve will come out through the top.

You can then separate the stem and adjuster by pulling them apart in opposite directions with your fingers.

Re-fitting is the exact reversal of the above.

The little adjusting sleeve is to hold the stem within the case and also to adjust the position of the stem in relation to the movement.

 You will see that it has four slots cut in it like the collet in a lathe and it allows the stem to be held in place but still lets the stem revolve for winding and hand reseting.

Be careful with this because it is hardened and will easily break if you try to prize it open. Just use your fingers to separate it from the stem.

The adjusting sleeve is often in pieces when you remove it but it can still be used if there are enough of the four legs in place.

Edited by Alaskamick
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Alaskamick said:

If you still want to remove the stem you first have to take the movement out as described by oldhippy.

You should rarely have to remove the stem but if you need to, with the movement out, push the crown back in to extend the amount of square stem showing inside the case. Grip the stem carefully across the square with small pliers then using the fingers of your other hand unscrew the crown from the stem. ( Some watches have a small grub screw through the crown so loosen that )

You will then need a special shaped tool to unscrew the adjuster inside the tube where the crown fits. The stem and adjuster sleeve will come out through the top.

You can then separate the stem and adjuster by pulling them apart in opposite directions with your fingers.

Re-fitting is the exact reversal of the above.

The little adjusting sleeve is to hold the stem within the case and also to adjust the position of the stem in relation to the movement.

 You will see that it has four slots cut in it like the collet in a lathe and it allows the stem to be held in place but still lets the stem revolve for winding and hand reseting.

Be careful with this because it is hardened and will easily break if you try to prize it open. Just use your fingers to separate it from the stem.

The adjusting sleeve is often in pieces when you remove it but it can still be used if there are enough of the four legs in place.

That's a hard way of going about it. If you don't get the adjuster right you can have all kinds of problems in getting the depth right for winding and setting the hands. You need the proper tool to remove the adjuster. This should only be undertaken as a last resort.

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, Alaskamick said:

old hippy, surely thats the correct way to remove a stem.

What would you do?

I'm not saying its not correct, it is fiddly. The pocket watch has a two piece stem. The person wants to remove the movement from its case which I have explained in one of my previous posts. You would only need to go through the fiddly task if say the sleeve of the adjuster had broken or the part stem in the case had broken. If all is well there is no need to remove it. 

  • Like 1
Alaskamick WRT Addict

Alaskamick

Posted
Posted

I think when you get the movement out you will be able to see whether the stem is tight or the keyless work within the movement is tight. When you get to that stage you will know where to move to next.

Usually the crown and stem in a Waltham case are quite sloppy.

Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

It would be better if you start another thread that describes these watches JD as the title  the tread does not reflect the new content.  I say this because anyone looking for so thing in particular sully checks the thread titles first.  This title specifically says Waltham Traveller 16S.

Geo!

jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
Posted
It would be better if you start another thread that describes these watches JD as the title  the tread does not reflect the new content.  I say this because anyone looking for so thing in particular sully checks the thread titles first.  This title specifically says Waltham Traveller 16S.

Geo!

Sorry and will do

  • Like 1
anilv Distinguished Member

anilv

Posted
Posted

Hi jdrichard,

It looks like the barrel has been rubbing on the mainplate, probably the barrel holes have worn.

 

Anil

 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • JohnR725
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      interesting video nice to see the machine what it can do now I wonder what it costs and I'm sure it's not in my budget. Plus the video brought up questions but the website below answers the questions? What was bothering me was the size of his machine 4 mm because I thought it was bigger than that? But then it occurred to me that maybe they had variations it looks like four, seven and 10. With the seven and 10 being the best because way more tool positions in way more rotating tools. Although I bet you all the rotating tools are probably separate cost https://www.tornos.com/en/content/swissnano   Then as we been talking about Sherline. Just so that everyone's aware of this they have another division their industrial division where you can buy bits and pieces. I have a link below that shows that just in case you don't want to have the entire machine you just need bits and pieces. https://www.sherline.com/product-category/industrial-products-division/   Let's see what we can do with the concept I explained up above and bits and pieces. For one thing you can make a really tiny gear very tiny like perhaps you're going to make a watch. Then another version the center part is not separate it is all machined from one piece. Then fills gear cutting machines have gone through multiple of evolutions. A lot of it based on what he wanted to make like he was going to make a watch unfortunately eyesight issues have prevented that. Another reason why you should start projects like this much sooner when your eyesight is really good or perhaps start on watches first and then move the clocks then local we have from the industrial division? Looks like two separate motors and heads. Then it's hard to see but this entire thing is built on top of a much larger milling machine as a larger milling machine gave a very solid platform to build everything.   Then like everything else that had multiple generations are versions the indexing went through of course variations like above is one version and the one below was the last version. Now the version below I mentioned that previously and somewhere in the beginning to discussion and somebody else had one in their picture. As it is a really nice precision indexing. Then I wasn't sure if I had a the watch photos here is his unfinished watch. No he wasn't going to make a simple watch like none of his clocks were simply either what would be the challenge and that.    
    • Titanium
      Lab Coats

      By Titanium · Posted

      Use a Portwest Howie lab coat. They are the biological type so they have tapped cuffs so you don't end up getting the loose cuffs of normal lab coats catching everything. 
    • Titanium
      Chinese tools debate

      By Titanium · Posted

      Some of the Chinese tools ae great and can be purchased at a fraction of the price of Swiss ones, some are complete garbage and some I'm convinced are coming out the same factory as the branded ones.
    • caseback
      Calendar work certina 25-651

      By caseback · Posted

      I found this string about this problem. I've not gone through it all, but I believe it also mentions making a spring. If not in this string, the info is online.
    • tonydagee
      Calendar work certina 25-651

      By tonydagee · Posted

      No, I now realise it’s broken😥 ive looked for one online, but v. Expensive! im going to service as is, in the hope that  one turns up. Thank  you.
×
×
  • Create New...