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About Hertzogpholian

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  1. when i was a hardware tech, taking apart laptops and printers and phones and other electronics, I just laid out the parts left to right across the desk/table as I disassembled whatever I was working on and then reverse to put it back together. I didn't have the washing up step so it was easy as everything was right where I left it. I can remember one Dell Latitude model that had 4 or 5 different screw lengths and the holes weren't marked as to which screw went into each hole and the screws were used to complete the grounding on the boards and if you got it wrong the laptop wouldn't power on. if you got it really wrong, you'd fry the darn thing. The following year, they started molding reference letters into the plastic. With cars, it was the same kind of thing, lay the stuff out in order and keep things that go together, together. in the beginning with watches, i used post-its and put the parts on a post-it. and i was washing parts by hand so i would keep them separate that way. with the washer, they would go into separate little thimble screw-together holders. in the beginning, you just need to document everything but it gets easier with practice.
  2. i suck at drawing. your stand device has two parts: the stand part and the movement/watch holder part. on the movement holder, source a spring that fits in the hole you've already drilled in it and a ball bearing that's a tight fit. jam the ball bearing over the spring and stake it into place. the spring needs to be long/strong enough to push the ball bearing out at rest. As you rotate the movement holder about its axis, the ball bearing now describes a circle on the stand. you now need something that is a dupe of the click ring in the video, the little brass disc he's holding. you would have 4 divots if you want 90* turns; 8 if you want 45* like in the video. You need the divots at the specific radius described by the ball bearing. you could machine a separate disk and pin it (like a dial) into the stand piece. or epoxy it. or create a new stand altogether with the divots integrated.
  3. looks like it. could email him for better pics (i.e., in focus) of those specific punches.
  4. something like this: the "detent ring" would be on the stand and the lower part he doesn't adjust would be the AL holder. A clamp only needs one moving part.and a fixed base - if you use the same shape the regular ones use, i.e. little "C" shapes that cup the sides. You could use pins and get away with w fixed and one moving. the movement could be adapted from the various movement holders. Put the two fixed pins at 10 & 2 and have the moveable one at 6. One immediate complication that springs to mind is making it band-compatible.
  5. instead of a pin for the level, you could make the top part of the stand bigger around the axis point. Drill small countersinks on the "in" side at the 12,3,6,9 positions and have a spring-loaded pin in the aluminum to interface with the countersink/detents. This would provide a positive engagement at the 4 main positions without requiring any fiddling with pins to move into or out of the horizontal position.
  6. very useful, they work great and save lots of time/aggro. I have the 1900. differences to the 1000 are color screen so the tick and tock are different colors and the pixels are smaller than the 1000; graphing display can be changed to show longer time ranges and has a couple different curves; resolution is .1 instead of 1.0 for some measurements: lift angle and fast/slow and the 1900 does "signal conditioning" or some other unknown mumbo jumbo. i don't know if any of those are worth the price premium (other than the color screen) but I got it for the same price as the 1000, so it was kind of a no-brainer for me. btw, the sound it makes is not the actual sound of the watch - it's generated by the tester. which is kinda lame, imo.
  7. and it's a tricky part sometimes, too. has to be levered off to be safe. hand levers work if you don't want to buy a special wheel puller. and when setting the second hand on these, you need to support the pinion from below or you'll just push it down, too. that little friction spring isn't strong enough.
  8. there's also the yahoo mailing list with a few years worth of back and forth.
  9. What about the gloves? You can't just ignore the gloves!
  10. motivation is important. second only to recognition, imo. if you've been spending time on it, you _have_ been getting better. If only learning what not to do. hahaha... perseverance and all that. But... I didn't put this in the message because I was getting a wee bit long but maybe your issue is unfocused practice? If it's overwhelming to being with, trying to learn all the different calibers and their idiosyncrasies at the same time is numbing. That's one thing that's kind of zen-like about the hacko "class". step 1 - take this apart. step 2 - put it back together. step 3 - do it ten times until you're bored with it. that repetition builds muscle memory and takes you from conscious incompetence to conscious competence into unconsciousness competence. I don't remember if he mentions it or not but one thing that helped me was to name all the parts when I was doing something. Kind of like as if you were narrating a video. If you want some more discussion, just ask. I can keep typing...
  11. Bill: It's good you can recognize an introverted question as difficult. They're called "blind spots" for a reason... That said, joining a class and spending money is kind of like just buying another tool. The course isn't really going to give you the practice or motivation to learn you need. So, another hard question: If you've been going at this for a couple years and don't understand how a watch works, I have to ask - why not? Please know this isn't meant insultingly. We who are hobbyists are doing this for fun or, maybe "fun". If it's not fun, maybe it isn't for you? Not to discourage you but this isn't a job you need to do to put food on the table. It should be something you derive pleasure or enjoyment fun, whether it's the sense of accomplishment of learning something new or taking a box of parts from just a box of parts to something that works. Now, before you think I'm discouraging you out of this hobby, I'm not. I'm saying, you seem to possess the self-awareness to realistically assess yourself. And you obviously want to learn since you asked the question. But maybe you've been a bit unfocused or "lost"? We all have different motivations. And other responsibilities (or irresponsibilities ) that tug us in other directions. I remember when I first started learning about watches when my uncle game me his Omega Chronometer. It was the 80s - no internet, jealously guarded info, people not wanting to share their secrets, fear of competition, etc.. and it was kind of overwhelming until I saw the 1949 Hamilton "How a Watch Works" movie. I can remember sitting in the media center in the university library and re-watching that video a couple dozen times. And it just clicked for me. It's now available on youtube. At the time, it was just something to read and learn about, the actual working came later when I graduated and got a job and decided drinking with friends every night wasn't the way to spend my life and wanted a new challenge. It's been about ten years since I've worked on watches or worn a watch (I work in IT, smartphones...) but I recently found my father-in-laws old military watch and needed to break out the tools to give it the once over and the interest is rekindled. Another question: what books have you read? Augusta has to have a (several) public library and if they don't have watchmaking books, inter-library loan should be able to source the standards: e.g., decarle, kelly. also, the waltham, bulova, chicago school manuals/books/courses are all freely available online with some simple google-fu. they give a standard of knowledge that should help getting up to speed on movements and techniques. Read! And here's one course to take - a free one. Nicholas Hacko, an Aussie watchmaker wrote up a howto on the seiko 7s26 - http://www.clockmaker.com.au/diy_seiko_7s26/chapter1.html. It's a really nice movement to learn. I'm a bit of a seikoholic so maybe biased but he doesn't focus on the movement as much as practicing techniques, too. If this interests you, http://www.thepurists.com/watch/features/8ohms/7s26 is considered the definitive article on the movement in the seiko community.
  12. One "advantage" to the hand vise (axminster, above) is that you can attach it to the workbench/vise and know it's not going to move if you're really horking on something. But... how often do you do that? Plus, you can't move the movement around to get to the other side easily and you'll find that really limiting since proper tool-movement alignment requires moving the movement (ha!) a lot. With the movement locked down in place, you'll get sloppy and awkward with the tools just so you don't have to unlock and readjust and that leads to slipping, which leads to, well, we don't want to go there... It does come in handy though - another arrow in the quiver. One thing you'll want to do is machine the pins a bit lower for holding a movement. At least, I found I needed to do that - otherwise, you'll keep bumping your tweezers into the pins and that just drove me crazy. oldhippy's holder is nice and wide/stable whilst also allowing easy re-positioning. They go for $20-25 in the US on the bay. Maybe the best of both worlds?
  13. The movement holder is something you don't want to skimp on. just like tweezers or screwdrivers, they're the tool you use on EVERY job. The movement holders are the one (two) Bergeon tools everyone should own, they're even moderately priced. And they really are better than the $5 ones. Buy quality, you'll only cry once. Oh, and RedRooster is mostly Chinese and Indian copies. Not that they're all bad but that's the rub with the copies...
  14. @SSTEEL Mickey - I love those, too. I converted to them for photography maybe 7-8 years ago and haven't looked back. @bobm12 I get mine on dx.com - $2-3 bucks per, direct from China and haven't had a problem with any of them. Canon full-frame shooter with lots of "expensive as L" glass. The cheapies are fine, no worries. Test them first of a spare pair of eyeglasses or something if you're worried but no need to spend $20 for the canon namestamp or no idea how much bergeon charges for their name. @SCOTTY Which model? I love Seiko divers... Hardlex is real mineral glass so acetone or lacquer thinner won't touch it. And yeah, it's pressed in with a gasket. But I wouldn't use either on it, though. windex would be fine. dishwashing liquid (fairy liquid, if you're a brit reading this) and water would be fine. distilled water rinse and wipe dry with a microfiber eyeglass cloth. Unless you have something goober-y on it, like adhesive because your niece went crazy with stickers or something like that.
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