Jump to content

Waltham Traveller 16S


Recommended Posts

On 26/03/2016 at 3:41 PM, jdrichard said:

Strange because they all start with A and 5 numbers not 6??

Not really must watch makers had their own code when it came to marking. This way I said only the repairer would know. This is a practice I never ever did. I kept a book with every repair carried out, with the antique clocks I would right up all the work carried out including parts made and hand the list and old parts to the owner.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not really must watch makers had their own code when it came to marking. This way I said only the repairer would know. This is a practice I never ever did. I kept a book with every repair carried out, with the antique clocks I would right up all the work carried out including parts made and hand the list and old parts to the owner.

Good insight. Now for the second last question, how do I remove the stem from this watch without disassembling it? Is these a trick.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you still want to remove the stem you first have to take the movement out as described by oldhippy.

You should rarely have to remove the stem but if you need to, with the movement out, push the crown back in to extend the amount of square stem showing inside the case. Grip the stem carefully across the square with small pliers then using the fingers of your other hand unscrew the crown from the stem. ( Some watches have a small grub screw through the crown so loosen that )

You will then need a special shaped tool to unscrew the adjuster inside the tube where the crown fits. The stem and adjuster sleeve will come out through the top.

You can then separate the stem and adjuster by pulling them apart in opposite directions with your fingers.

Re-fitting is the exact reversal of the above.

The little adjusting sleeve is to hold the stem within the case and also to adjust the position of the stem in relation to the movement.

 You will see that it has four slots cut in it like the collet in a lathe and it allows the stem to be held in place but still lets the stem revolve for winding and hand reseting.

Be careful with this because it is hardened and will easily break if you try to prize it open. Just use your fingers to separate it from the stem.

The adjusting sleeve is often in pieces when you remove it but it can still be used if there are enough of the four legs in place.

Edited by Alaskamick
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Alaskamick said:

If you still want to remove the stem you first have to take the movement out as described by oldhippy.

You should rarely have to remove the stem but if you need to, with the movement out, push the crown back in to extend the amount of square stem showing inside the case. Grip the stem carefully across the square with small pliers then using the fingers of your other hand unscrew the crown from the stem. ( Some watches have a small grub screw through the crown so loosen that )

You will then need a special shaped tool to unscrew the adjuster inside the tube where the crown fits. The stem and adjuster sleeve will come out through the top.

You can then separate the stem and adjuster by pulling them apart in opposite directions with your fingers.

Re-fitting is the exact reversal of the above.

The little adjusting sleeve is to hold the stem within the case and also to adjust the position of the stem in relation to the movement.

 You will see that it has four slots cut in it like the collet in a lathe and it allows the stem to be held in place but still lets the stem revolve for winding and hand reseting.

Be careful with this because it is hardened and will easily break if you try to prize it open. Just use your fingers to separate it from the stem.

The adjusting sleeve is often in pieces when you remove it but it can still be used if there are enough of the four legs in place.

That's a hard way of going about it. If you don't get the adjuster right you can have all kinds of problems in getting the depth right for winding and setting the hands. You need the proper tool to remove the adjuster. This should only be undertaken as a last resort.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Alaskamick said:

old hippy, surely thats the correct way to remove a stem.

What would you do?

I'm not saying its not correct, it is fiddly. The pocket watch has a two piece stem. The person wants to remove the movement from its case which I have explained in one of my previous posts. You would only need to go through the fiddly task if say the sleeve of the adjuster had broken or the part stem in the case had broken. If all is well there is no need to remove it. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think when you get the movement out you will be able to see whether the stem is tight or the keyless work within the movement is tight. When you get to that stage you will know where to move to next.

Usually the crown and stem in a Waltham case are quite sloppy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It would be better if you start another thread that describes these watches JD as the title  the tread does not reflect the new content.  I say this because anyone looking for so thing in particular sully checks the thread titles first.  This title specifically says Waltham Traveller 16S.

Geo!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It would be better if you start another thread that describes these watches JD as the title  the tread does not reflect the new content.  I say this because anyone looking for so thing in particular sully checks the thread titles first.  This title specifically says Waltham Traveller 16S.

Geo!

Sorry and will do

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • The heat is so intense and sudden that it can harden the spot.
    • I have an ancre ligne droite 15 rubis pocket watch with serial number 345613. Does anyone know age, origin etc of that watch? It also say balancer comprise an spiral breguet
    • Yup, that is the same as mine. Use a watch mainspring.  Find one the correct width and cut it to length! This is why you NEVER throw anything away.
    • Perhaps he means this is wear between the pivot tip and the pivot, as though the jewel hole has worn though a section of pivot above the tip. This I've seen on one or two that i have restored, it makes the tip look vaguely mushroom shaped. 
    • Thank you Knebo, I will not hesitate to do so. And thanks for the other service tips. How to service the reversing wheels is fortunately well known and documented but the other tips were new to me so much appreciated! Well, I tried it. I even washed the ball before I tried it but even though I pulled so hard I almost turned blue in the face, the case back wouldn't budge. I can't understand why case-backs have to be screwed on so tightly. I had an Enicar where the only solution was to attach a nut to the case back with super glue and then unscrew it with a large wrench and even that was sluggish. Anyway, I don't want to superglue a nut to a Rolex case back! It just wouldn't feel right 🫤 Well, @JohnR725, after reading your comments, there is no doubt that a service is in order. Unfortunately, I have no history but I guess that an overhaul (or several) should have been done long ago, especially as the rotor shaft is worn out. Thanks also to both of you for all the PDF documents that I have now saved on my OneDrive. It will be very interesting to read them. I am now compiling a list of everything I need to carry out a proper service and repair. At least everything that can be reasonably foreseen. Obviously, all the gaskets need to be replaced and fortunately, Cousins has everything in stock. As I have not yet been able to remove the movement from the case, I have not been able to take a closer look at the crown, so I wonder how the gasket is replaced in the crown. Maybe it's in one of the PDF documents but I thought it wouldn't hurt to ask anyway!
×
×
  • Create New...