Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Thanks Mark, Thinking about it during the night (as one does) one of the clocks I repaired the customer had tried to "get it going" himself & wondering if he used WD40. I am using Elma as it states that it is "Watch & Clock" cleaner.

 

However in future I think I will give the clock bits their first wash in my ultrasonic cleaner then put them through the L&R.

 

I am a new boy to this auto cleaning but have found the Elma good  BUT  it was smelly so (after complaints from she who must be obeyed) moved the cleaning ops to the garage and I cover the L&R up with an old sleeping bag as its getting bit nippy this time of year.

 

Finally I was not aware that the first jar was distilled water I have been using both rinse jars with Elma rinse.

Edited by clockboy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finally I was not aware that the first jar was distilled water I have been using both rinse jars with Elma rinse.

 

I personally recommend using proper rinse in jar two and three - especially for the L&R machine.

 

The distilled water is what is recommended in the Elma for the SuperElite.

 

See attached

 

3161_C0383 - BA_Super_Elite_GB.pdf

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mark,

I am using the correct rinse. Attached the PDF instructions which I have followed

 

 

attachicon.gifElma wf pro.pdf

 

Thats fine - when I said "proper rinse", I meant as opposed to distilled water. I meant to clarify for anybody potentially reading this that the distilled water method was as recommended in the Elma Super Elite manual, for that machine only (Maybe others but I don't know).

 

 

I am not an expert on cleaning machine electronics (I leave that to people like Mr Baxter) but I would imagine water and the L&R machine would not mix very well :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Me either Mark, and the L&R solutions above were based on your recommendation in your great Youtube video :)

 

I have been using L&R products since I started out, the last couple of years I have been using the excellent cleaner from Quadralene but still using the L&R rinse.

I have never used the Elma cleaner and so I thought, what the heck! 

 

I could end up regretting it but I genuinely want to see how it compares to the Quadralene and L&R fluids. A scientific experiment :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have used it in the past in my Elma Super Elite. No problems at all, but not as good as Quadralene which really seems to shine up brass parts.

Aparently there is another fluid for non ultrasonic machines from l&r its the #109

I guess it gives better results with it

br

emso

p.s: sent from my s****y phone so sorry for typing mistakes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

As I'm getting more into mechanical watch servicing I'm now looking at possibly purchasing a cleaning machine. As they are so very expensive I just wondered what your cleaning methods are? What equipment do you use, what solutions? What's worked best for you?

Any advice is appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a refurbished L&R but used to use a pro ultrasonic cleaner. For me personally the cleaning part I found a chore and slow so thats why I went the L&R route but it not cheap. But I have no regrets cleaning of the parts is now a breeze & in my opinion the L&R does a more thorough job. The cleaner I use at present is Elma but will be giving L&R fine a try.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Paul

 

I started off with manual cleaning with Lighter Fluid (containing Naptha) and progressed on to the following which is still quite obtainable 

 

I used Elma 1:9 to clean all my parts in a jar within a simple ultrasonics unit and then let the parts air dry, that worked every time.

 

If the watch is really grimey you will have to get some pegwood and sharpen it to sharp point in which you could "clean" out the jewels - I started with toothpicks..

 

Sometimes i revert back to manual cleaning before is goes in the cleaner any way as nothing beats a old toothbrush!

 

 A lot of people worried that they couldn't do a good job unless they had all the tools  - tools just aid the repairer, a while back they didn't have clever machines and made do with what they had.

 

Not very factual i know, however there are many ways, just play around and see what results you get and keep your parts covered once clean, its the most annoying thing ever to see dust, debris when putting it all back together!

 

 

Marks got a link here of his machine (which is what i have also)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use an old Elma cleaning machine that I picked up on eBay for the princely sum of 99p (+£15 shipping) spares or repair. It's the forerunner of the Elite but is identical in every respect except colour. All I had to do was renew the heater and motor switches, cost about £5 from Maplins. As back up I also have an old Brenray machine, also from eBay for peanuts. The Brenray is not quite as nice to use as the Elma but still a very good machine.

Cleaning fluid I use L&R Ultra Fine and No.3 rinse (1st & 2nd rinse). This works fine for me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use an old Elma cleaning machine that I picked up on eBay for the princely sum of 99p (+£15 shipping) spares or repair. It's the forerunner of the Elite but is identical in every respect except colour. All I had to do was renew the heater and motor switches, cost about £5 from Maplins. As back up I also have an old Brenray machine, also from eBay for peanuts. The Brenray is not quite as nice to use as the Elma but still a very good machine.

Cleaning fluid I use L&R Ultra Fine and No.3 rinse (1st & 2nd rinse). This works fine for me.

 

Exactly the L&R config i had, for me the bottles have lasted forever!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Following on from my question about identifying screws in the AS2063 movement that basically fell out of the case in bits, I’m pleased to report that I’ve got it all back together, and the movement is running pretty well.    But… There’s something wrong with the keyless works and hand setting. It’s fine in winding and quickset date position - these work - but in hand setting position winding the crown turns the whole gear train.  I don’t really understand how it’s meant to work. It doesn’t have a traditional friction fit cannon pinion.  The second wheel is unusual with a pair of smaller pinions on it, which seem to interact with the barrel and the motion works.    Could this be the problem? I must admit I just cleaned it and popped it in place when reassembling the gear train. I’ve lubricated the pivots but didn’t do anything to the extra bits on the second wheel.    Does this make sense and is anyone able to figure out what I’m doing wrong? Thanks in advance, as always. 
    • You're thinking metal to jewel in general I guess. Maybe it would be a good idea to peg the pallet staff jewel hole on the main plate after the epilame treatment. I think that could work as it is my impression that the epilame doesn't sit very hard, but I could be wrong about that so feel free to educate me. I didn't remember that 9501 was thixotropic (thanks for the link). That would mean it's even runnier during impact (lower viscosity) so perhaps it's time I get some fresh grease as mine seems a bit too runny. What I have seen is a whitish surface after washing but it goes away if I scrub the surface with a brush in a degreaser (Horosolv). I don't think it embeds itself in the metal but sticks very hard to the metal. I don't worry too much about the cleaning solution. I just want perfectly clean parts and my solution can be replaced for little money (ELMA RED 1:9). Anyway, I quite often need "to strip back and rebuild" and scrubbing parts by hand isn't exactly the most stimulating part of a service. Just got confirmation that Moebius 9501 has a lower viscosity (68 at 20° C) than 9504 (305 at 20°). The viscosity of Molykote DX is 285-315 at -25° to +125° C.
    • I’ve had a couple movements where it is clear the previous watchmaker was diligent with lubrication but the old epilam had turned to a fine white powder covering the pallet fork and keyless parts, which can’t be good for parts. I’m spare with epi since I don’t know how long it takes to degrade to that state…
    • I have read some suggestions that it can cause wear , particularly on the fork horns of a fully treated pallet fork. I've had half a kilo of steriac acid powder on a shelf for almost a year now, might have a little play today with a heater and a jar.  I think its because it gets into their cleaning solutions Mike. Theirs or anyone else's that services the watch next time, or if they need to strip back and rebuild. Could preclean but thats all time for a pro. I thought the idea was for the epilame to create a barrier, a wall between the lubrication and anything else, so the lube cant spread.
    • As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
×
×
  • Create New...