Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

hi y'all-newbie here and I'm sure everybody knows that buying tools for watch repair and/or mods can be expensive if you don't want some of the plentiful cheaper stuff that's out there. That would be me because I'll be turning my hobby into some sort of income soon, when I retire, and I've already spent a small fortune(for me!) on tooling. I surf all over the 'Net looking for the cheapest price; new or used, estate sales, you name it. My questions are, are there blueprints out there for some of this stuff? has anyone made their own tooling? I'm also a machinist and I'd definitely attempt to make my own, and share with everybody. Can this be done? anyone attempted it? 

Posted

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

When it comes to tools I always advise members to buy the best they can afford. To start with a good set of watchmakers screwdrivers and Dumont tweezers are a must have. 

  • Like 1
Posted
  On 4/23/2020 at 6:48 AM, oldhippy said:

When it comes to tools I always advise members to buy the best they can afford. To start with a good set of watchmakers screwdrivers and Dumont tweezers are a must have. 

Expand  

In that case  the OP wrote he's got enough for himself, and is looking for "blueprints" to make his own to sell.
Which I find to be a too wide and likely fruitless search, because even if you could find drawing isn't said that that these would be for the tools that people really want to buy. What is normally done is that the leading type or its copy is obtained, and then copied again. Only sometime it is also improved, but in the end the drawing, if any, are done again.

Posted

Hi   like jdm says the most used and most likely tools are copied with just enough difference so as to avoid infringment of the patent rights and there fore the drawings are again copied. Wether these would be put on the open market I dont think so.  One could always make inquiries through the patents office on tools that are out of patent. It also depends on the machine tools at your disposal to make or reproduce the product. And if selling the product at a competitive price

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
  On 4/23/2020 at 9:17 AM, watchweasol said:

Hi   like jdm says the most used and most likely tools are copied with just enough difference so as to avoid infringment of the patent rights and there fore the drawings are again copied. 

Expand  

Only some tools are patented, and when they are be that is generally shown on the item. And, patents may have long expired, either because of statutory tems, or failure by the owner. Also, patents are generally enforceable only in the issuing country. It is a complicated matter, I think when it comes to the small sector of watchmaking tools it is not something that a guy making stuff in an home shop should worry about.

Edited by jdm
  • Like 1
Posted

If you want to make a useful tool start making Platax tools seeing Bergeon stopped making them, but that in itself says a lot if its not worth their while making them it's probably not worth anyone else's.

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)
  On 4/23/2020 at 9:28 AM, wls1971 said:

If you want to make a useful tool start making Platax tools seeing Bergeon stopped making them, but that in itself says a lot if its not worth their while making them it's probably not worth anyone else's.

Expand  

Making a Platax would allow one to see that the rare used ones that come up are well worth the price at several hundred bucks or more!

 

On that note, I have made tools in the past, but really only when there either wasn't something commercially available, or making it actually is cheaper than buying. If one is a professional, then you have to count your time as you would working on paying work and see if it's worth it. I made a quick change toolpost for my watchmaker lathe, at that time I was in school and the day or two spent was far less painful than shelling out hundreds of dollars. I made a pentagonal female driver to remove the back screws on an Audemars Piguet, no chance of buying one.

 

For basic tools like screwdrivers there are so many choices not including the Aliexpress stuff that it just doesn't make sense. For something like a staking tool which is painfully expensive new, there are dozens available at any moment secondhand for very cheap. Tweezers would be incredibly hard to make and be even close to what cheap ones are quality wise.

 

Then there are things that might be useful enough, rare enough used and no longer made, to warrant making. In the Louis Levin book Practical Benchwork for Horologists there actually are blueprints for a screwcutting attachment that can be adapted to almost any watchmaker's lathe equipped with a cross slide. One of my old students did make one a few years back and does use it frequently; but he does primarily component making for restoration work, and encounters many odd threads that would be tricky to impossible to make without it. A few of the lathe makers offered these in the past but they were rarely bought and thus very very hard to find second hand.

 

Something I do make quite often is special pushers and stumps to be used in a jeweling tool. Pushers with short blind holes to help push small steady pins in straight, pushers or stumps with relief grooves or holes machined in to clear obstacles, all sorts. I have hundreds and still make them once a month or so. It's handy to have some steel in staking punch diameter too, even with a large set you might find that you really want/need something special.

Edited by nickelsilver
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
  On 4/23/2020 at 10:26 AM, nickelsilver said:

I made a pentagonal female driver to remove the back screws on an Audemars Piguet, no chance of buying one.

Expand  

That must have been before "China AND CNC" :)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000745105373.html

That's just an example, there was another seller with many more types sold  (not cheaply) individually, 

  Quote

For basic tools like screwdrivers there are so many choices not including the Aliexpress stuff that it just doesn't make sense.

Expand  

Now that Cousins UK sells unbranded AF for cheap, that is even more correct. Previously I've got the below and very happy with. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32565947452.html 

  Quote

In the Louis Levin book Practical Benchwork for Horologists there actually are blueprints for a screwcutting attachment that can be adapted to almost any watchmaker's lathe equipped with a cross slide. One of my old students did make one a few years back and does use it frequently; but he does primarily component making for restoration work, and encounters many odd threads that would be tricky to impossible to make without it. A few of the lathe makers offered these in the past but they were rarely bought and thus very very hard to find second hand.

Expand  

I'm the first being intrigued by screwcutting but I remain a bit skeptical about the utmost importance of having a complicated threading setup on a (small) watchmaker lathe to make small threads. Change gers copiers, etc everytime a new job shows up. Better maybe bite the bullet (steel bar) once and make your own tap or die with the hope of reusing it the future

 

 

 

Edited by jdm
  • Like 2
Posted

Wow, good to know about those drivers! I made mine probably 12 years ago.

 

My friend does make taps and dies, but you still need the ability to match the thread pitch thus the threading setup. He's a maniac though, he often just directly grinds the threads on the part with the threading setup.

  • Haha 1
Posted

How about making Ollie Baker mainspring winders. Cousins seems to be out of stock most of the time. Whenever stocks come in, it is almost always snapped up in a couple of days. 

I just started making my own because the prices for a new one is crazy. Even used ones on ebay are really expensive.

I already have an old English pattern mainspring winder and started thinking of making an adapter for winding larger clock springs. I've seen videos of some diy winders on YouTube and those didn't really interest me.

Now I will have to figure out how to build the rest of it with readily available stuff.

20200423_205437.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
  On 4/23/2020 at 6:48 AM, oldhippy said:

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

When it comes to tools I always advise members to buy the best they can afford. To start with a good set of watchmakers screwdrivers and Dumont tweezers are a must have. 

Expand  

I sure did. the Bergeon 9 and Dumont #1 and 3 came in the mail the other day. you cannot substitute anything for good quality. what a difference good stuff makes! thanks! still building....

Posted
  On 4/23/2020 at 10:26 AM, nickelsilver said:

Making a Platax would allow one to see that the rare used ones that come up are well worth the price at several hundred bucks or more!

 

On that note, I have made tools in the past, but really only when there either wasn't something commercially available, or making it actually is cheaper than buying. If one is a professional, then you have to count your time as you would working on paying work and see if it's worth it. I made a quick change toolpost for my watchmaker lathe, at that time I was in school and the day or two spent was far less painful than shelling out hundreds of dollars. I made a pentagonal female driver to remove the back screws on an Audemars Piguet, no chance of buying one.

 

For basic tools like screwdrivers there are so many choices not including the Aliexpress stuff that it just doesn't make sense. For something like a staking tool which is painfully expensive new, there are dozens available at any moment secondhand for very cheap. Tweezers would be incredibly hard to make and be even close to what cheap ones are quality wise.

 

Then there are things that might be useful enough, rare enough used and no longer made, to warrant making. In the Louis Levin book Practical Benchwork for Horologists there actually are blueprints for a screwcutting attachment that can be adapted to almost any watchmaker's lathe equipped with a cross slide. One of my old students did make one a few years back and does use it frequently; but he does primarily component making for restoration work, and encounters many odd threads that would be tricky to impossible to make without it. A few of the lathe makers offered these in the past but they were rarely bought and thus very very hard to find second hand.

 

Something I do make quite often is special pushers and stumps to be used in a jeweling tool. Pushers with short blind holes to help push small steady pins in straight, pushers or stumps with relief grooves or holes machined in to clear obstacles, all sorts. I have hundreds and still make them once a month or so. It's handy to have some steel in staking punch diameter too, even with a large set you might find that you really want/need something special.

Expand  

that Platax would be right up my alley. exactly the type of stuff I'm talking about. thanks for all the good info. true, some stuff is a no-brainer; I have no way of making it and it just has to be bought. Others, I'll just have to buy and if I can make it better somehow or I come up with a tooling idea, I'll build it. I'll be looking into that Levin book also. What school were you in? I actually attended and graduated from(tool trade) the trade school here where they used to have a 2 year course on watch repair. Sadly and because a world famous manufacturer stopped with their scholarship and sponsorship, it closed in 2012 with all the tooling sold at auction. sure enough, I hadn't got back into watches at that time. Just my luck. and I remember the lab rooms being FULL of all sorts of everything. if I only knew then what I know now...

 

Posted
  On 4/23/2020 at 12:06 PM, jdm said:

That must have been before "China AND CNC" :)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000745105373.html

That's just an example, there was another seller with many more types sold  (not cheaply) individually, 

Now that Cousins UK sells unbranded AF for cheap, that is even more correct. Previously I've got the below and very happy with. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32565947452.html 

I'm the first being intrigued by screwcutting but I remain a bit skeptical about the utmost importance of having a complicated threading setup on a (small) watchmaker lathe to make small threads. Change gers copiers, etc everytime a new job shows up. Better maybe bite the bullet (steel bar) once and make your own tap or die with the hope of reusing it the future

 

 

 

Expand  

man, I had a hard enough time cutting regular threads on larger pieces....MAKING taps and dies? and that small too? thats a whole different challenge!

Posted
  On 4/23/2020 at 9:03 AM, jdm said:

In that case  the OP wrote he's got enough for himself, and is looking for "blueprints" to make his own to sell.
Which I find to be a too wide and likely fruitless search, because even if you could find drawing isn't said that that these would be for the tools that people really want to buy. What is normally done is that the leading type or its copy is obtained, and then copied again. Only sometime it is also improved, but in the end the drawing, if any, are done again.

Expand  

not looking to make to sell. i've always been proud of tools I've made myself because none exists. thats the cool part.

  • Like 1
Posted

I make the odd simple tools when I can’t buy one. Things I’ve made recently were a specific size of rose cutter which I made from silver steel, and some tool bits for screwing down crystal retaining rings. 
The BHI practical courses have tools which you are expected to make at the end of each chapter, so I’ve made some of those.  

  • Like 1
Posted

I've never officially been employed as a machinist but have done a reasonable amount of it under less well-paid "general operative" title.. and in my spare time.

Watch repair is an interesting activity when it comes to tools. There are so many to choose from, and there's a lot of interest in nice old bits of equipment to make specific parts which can be made using other methods today. In some ways it seems to demonstrate how there was less apparent certainty of the ability to measure and make to size in the first attempt (like knowing what size then hitting it dead on size with carbide turning inserts compared to being able to creep up with HSS with multiple checks as it gets closer).. thinking of wheel cutting, but also turning.

I'd be tempted to suggest a Platax tool, though a staking set can usually be equipped with the stakes and anvils to do the same thing. I sometimes make little bits of tooling and other bits.. like some stakes and anvils for my staking set and jewelling tool.. made some tools for servicing the pre-war Zeiss Contax cameras too (pin pushing punches / mini pin spanners/ non-marking gear grip).. I'm presently building a Schaublin-inspired overhead drive for a similar sort of American bench lathe after rebuilding the bench - it was in storage a long time and some missing parts were later acquired seperately.

There are a few watch lathe tools such as compound slides, and screwhead polishing tools which are reasonably expensive (though arguably not necessary thanks to gravers and freehand polishing tools). The hardest thing about making hand tools is that they are sometimes too small to copy from pictures. Mainspring winders are useful and some are expensive.

 

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I was wondering because of the alum idea. 
    • just a reminder about this test is it's not a perfect test it's a quick test. In other words you can adjust the banking pins that are both the same and visually this test will pass everything looks the same but both banking pins can be in the wrong place. although the majority of time when people are playing with banking pins I don't put them in the same place. one of things have to be careful of is I believe some of the pallet fork measuring tools that actually give you the roller jewel size are actually size so that I get confused? What I mean by this is if you inserted a whatever size in and are always told to go a slightly smaller I thought that the gauge itself its number corresponded to give you the exact number. So a lot of it depends upon the gauge itself I think you do want the roller jewel slightly smaller because it does have to fit in the slot and it does have a little bit a play. But if it's too small you will lose energy so does have to be sized right. Oh other things to check is? I'm attaching an Elgin sheet on checking the escapement I've seen references in the past to making sure that the slot in the four corn is nice and smooth and apparently you can end up with a rough slot and then the recommendation is to polisher clean that up. Not sure how well that's really going to work even if it has been the recommendation of other reference materials. yes art full plate watches fun when they don't work. This is where it's nice to have another set of eyes sometimes as maybe they'll find something you didn't  although that can add other issues. The owner of the shop provides himself on his skills of so now two of my watches have relocated to his bench to solve problems both real and imaginary I'm sure that will get fixed eventually hopefully. But still sometimes another set of eyes might see something that you're not. yes this sort of thing can be quite frustrating. Also makes for an interesting problem unless of course you're the one trying to solve the problem that it's a Escapement Elgin setting up the escapement.PDF
    • I’m not to sure mate! I’ve sent a picture! The crown is off a Tissot 1853 automatic limited edition T115427 A GP19 moto go watch!   
    • For years and I'm still using it I've been using something called SeaMonkey? It's a Mozilla product Basically outscore its Firefox plus an integrated email program. But not the same problems here a lot of times when things are upgraded they tend to be now aimed at very specific browsers like Firefox so I've had to switch to Firefox to respond to any of the messages on the group. So yes they do seem to be getting more browser specific and that may be a reason for others having complications especially if whatever you using hasn't been updated. So yes the world is getting more browser specific perhaps for security reasons. Even though I use a product that is updated on a regular basis is still has problems. So whatever you using for browser should be up to date and if is not recognized it's going to be a problem.
    • I did remember to ask at work and minor complication? Well I suppose technically two separate complications. First off glass mineral glass versus Seiko's Hardlex Glass. Don't know if other companies have their own class or not and a basic class for crystals is probably not the same as window glass it would be more transparent. It becomes obvious if you're looking at a sheet of flat crystal glass versus window glass it's definitely more transparent you can see it when you look at the edges of it window glass looks green. No idea how that changes physical characteristics other than optical. Then we also have thickness like the Seiko five's there crystals are really sick compared to other things and I'm guessing that makes things different. In the first link it talks about Sapphire versus mineral glass. One other thing is bothering me though when I'm reading this is where is the source material? What I mean by this is could we end up with multiple generations of salespeople quoting the same sales tactic or information and we don't actually know because you don't have a source reference? Let me quote something off the website it's brittle oh dear I was sad? Except it's not immune to damage it can crack where shatter under extreme force or impact. So what is the definition of extreme force or impact? Then is that more or less extreme then mineral glass?  Then regarding the price difference while back I had asked the owner where the Sapphire came from and basically wherever he can get the cheapest. So typically ordered from a variety of online supply watch parts in the US and  aliexpress China.. Then yes it does make a difference because we go through a lot of glass crystals and sapphire https://thehorologylab.com/sapphire-crystal-vs-mineral-glass-which-is-best-for-your-watch#google_vignette Then I guess one is glass not glass when it goes by another name? Hardlex Looks like it's purely a Seiko product but now I wonder if other watch companies have their own special glass? I didn't remember from past experience my favorite was people exposed to welding you can find little blobs a metal stuck to the watch case the crystal still intact but there's little burnt holes were bits of metal had actually burnt into the crystal but it was still there. Okay website below starts off with Sapphire sounds good but Apparently it can shatter easier then Hardlex. https://theslenderwrist.com/hardlex-crystal/ One other thing is what I'm reading to websites would be back to I want to see the test results? Often times weren't looking for a subject will find websites where I basically called them these are better than that by the way but sometimes I'll find websites that I will call book review websites were basically the review other websites other material and don't really introduce anything new to the subject. As I said these websites look quite nice which is why I'm giving you a link but where's the test results the definition of extreme how extreme to break a sapphire versus a glass or Hardlex?  
×
×
  • Create New...