I have on my bench a Timex Automatic (would it be a Viscount, circa 1979?) marked 37869 10979, 38 mm dia. with day & date. Symptoms that the owner/dealer wants me to correct are 1) the stem does not seem able to find that first detent where the date & day can be set, and 2) crown is unbelievably worn down and he wants a new stem-&-crown if I can get one.
I think I might need a new setting lever too. So far, the impression I get is of a degree of wear. The stem *seems* to slide in and out almost too easily. And I can't get it to stay in that sweet spot where the day or date rings turn. I will be stripping it down further in a bit, but I wanted to hear if this might be a common problem. I'm also hoping @JerseyMofinds this.
My Timex Waterbury 2018 backlight was intermittent from new. This was a 60th birthday present which I really appreciated so I didn't want to try and return it in the heat of the Pandemic. After about a month the Idiglo stopped working altogether even though the watch keeps excellent time.
The illumination itself was working fine when it worked at all. The problem was that pushing the watch crown inwards to activate the light seemed at fault. Towards the end I found I had to pull the crown out slightly and then press to get the light to come on. This ran the risk of accidentally changing the position of the hands which meant I couldn't trust the time afterwards. It was getting annoying!
Following advice in the forums I used a stout bladed knife and popped the back off by lifting the tabbed part against the nearest lug. Replacing the back was going to be very tough but more on that later.
The scratches on the crystal look terrible in this picture but it's hardly noticeable in reality.
The fault did appear to be with the on/off switch mechanism so that's what I went looking for.
When you press on the crown the sprung lever should be pressed against the gold plated electrical contact and complete the circuit for the light. The spring then returns the crown, the circuit is broken and the light goes off again.
Ok so cool. I know how it is supposed to work now but it's so simple, how can it not be working? To make matters worse it did work absolutely perfectly with the back off! So I figured that I had mended it and put the back cover back on. This was VERY HARD. I couldn't press the thing hard enough to make it snap back and all that happened was that the cover 'see-sawed' around and I started to worry that I would damage it. So in the end I pushed the cover as far into position as I could and then clamped it between two pieces of wood in a table vice. Protecting it with layers of paper towel I gradually increased the pressure - fully expecting to crush the crystal - until it popped back on. I'd been very careful to clean the surfaces around the seal and replace the rubber gasket without any twists that might compromise the water resistance.
But the backlight was still faulty. Exactly the same. I guess the stem was touching the lever while the back and retaining parts were removed.
I took the back off again and decided to go a bit further this time. The stem was removed very easily by pressing the little locking tab.
I don't have a picture of it happening but when I was handling the case to get the stem out a tiny, tiny circlip fell out as well. About 1.75mm diameter. I'd never seen one of these things so small!
Here's a picture of it close to the groove it should be clipped into. I know that holding it with a magnetic pick could risk magnetising it but I tried tweezers and immediately realised that the tiny thing would go flying into orbit and be lost forever.
How am I supposed to get the circlip into the groove without it disappearing across the room?
The answer was Blu-Tack. I pressed the circlip into it with the open part upwards and then pressed the watch stem down on to it until it clicked in.
And that was it. I replaced the stem and did the scary vice thing again to replace the back and it was done.
Considering how many Indiglos have been sold around the world I was surprised that there was just nothing like this on the internet so I'm posting to help others in the future. It was pretty easy to do once I knew what was needed. But it was also VERY fiddly and you really should be aware that losing the circlip or crushing a watch in a vice are likely to void your warranty!
See you out there,
I'm looking for help identifying the movement in this vintage citizen watch. I picked it up from a flea market and quite like the look, especially since finding Citizen watches of this age seems somewhat rare.
But, I haven't been able to figure out a model number so that I can start looking for a replacement stem/crown. I can find a serial number of some type that reads 360278 and the letter T under the balance. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
See photos of top and bottom of movement.
I went to an estate sale at the corner and befriended the seller. I asked about watches and he told me he had some at home and since I seemed nice, he’d bring them to me.
He had some nice pieces and after disassembling this pocket watch, I’m under the assumption it’s a no name.
The dial material is copper and I assume porcelain because it’s hand painted. The only word on the movement is “Garantee” and it’s my first cylinder escapement.
If anyone has clues to the movement manufacturer or dates, please comment
Hey, new to the hobby and found myself starting with old timex watches. I have found that when I swapped my m24 movement with an m72 movement my second hand will slip and fall to the 6 o'clock position when the face is held perpendicular to the ground. Any ideas for a newbie?
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Nucejoe has made some good points about the calendar mechanism. If the watch physically stops at least the hands stop and the secondhand keeps going that means the watch train is running it means that it's a disconnect between the gear train and our minute hand in calendar mechanism. The Canon opinion which I'm going but I guess is the type that snaps into a drive wheel. The drive wheel is driven by the gear train the Canon pinion goes on the post there is no friction there. If the friction between the drive wheel in the Canon pinion disintegrates which he can then with the least amount of friction like a calendar mechanism it just quit striving. The hands come to a stop the watch keeps running the secondhand keeps moving because it's independence of all of this. It should have been obvious when the watch was going to gather and you check the setting mechanism before you put the calendar on you would have noticed zero friction as a guess. Even now when you go into hands setting you'll feel like there's no friction at all. Then the reason why the calendar mechanism works when you manually rotate the hands is because the setting wheel is driving the Canon pinion directly which is driving the calendar mechanism and that our wheel and all of that so all of that will run from that we just will not run from the gear train running the drive wheel that's connected to the Canon pinion. But that's just my wild guess and then we throw in Nucejoe's possible calendar mechanism increased friction than we need to really isolate all of this or we can continue to guess.
I am not sure if I correctly understand you here. Only the seconds hand keeps running or minute and hour hands do move too, in case minute and hour hands move and show time right, then the fault is in date change train including date jumper mech, but if it doesn't show time correctly ( appear to loose time) then its loose canon pinion. You can tighten a loose canon pinion, use grease to lube it, not oil.
always confusing when it's two separate watches but I'm going to assume they're basically identical. What was their condition before you service them in other words did have a problem before and the problem came after you've serviced or was the problems there before? Then timing machine results you do have a timing machine don't you? In other words what's the running condition of the watch like of the watches barely running that would be an issue for a calendar change then you fix the problem? so I'm guessing we only have to worry about the 2778 then? Yes this is what happens when you have multiple watches with too much going on it becomes confusing. then it would be helpful to have a picture of the dial side components because we didn't memorize every single calendar change mechanism. one of the places to look is the Canon pinion assembly in other words to visit have enough force to drive the calendar mechanism? I'm having to guess because I'm not finding a good tech sheet that shows the parts. If it's a kinda Canon pinion I think which is the Canon pinion that slips into her presses into with friction with the wheel if it no longer has and the friction then a cannot drive the calendar but if you manually set the watch that drives the Canon pinion directly and everything should function. then if you two of the parts list it would be listed as canon pinion with drive wheel. .But it would be helpful in the picture just to make sure http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&ETA_2778
I think what the problem here is you're asking the wrong question. The question is what part number do I need so that I can end up with the correct balance? Or the correct balance staff for that matter? If you look at the second link it lists the parts for your watch. This is always where things get interesting? you'll notice for balance staff they list seven different ones. For balance complete they do show three but if you look at the part numbers there's only two. then I attached some images from bestfit online and of course additional problems perhaps. Notice you have lots of choices and probably only one that's right. then the physical bestfit book becomes interesting because is an indication that there are variations which is of course why there so many listed in the images. but fortunately it looks like you want the basic simple one which should be 100/66. unfortunately for the third link it's out of stock. then providing this is the right staff number I snipped out a couple of more images of the bestfit book which is what the dimensions mean and the dimensions. One of the irritating things of the physical book is on the dimension chart if you're trying to find a particular staff you just have to be lucky to go through the list and find it it be really nice if they list of the sizes by the numeric staff also. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&0&2uswk&AS_1287 http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=AS_1287 http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=U\ZD]J http://www.julesborel.com/s.nl/it.A/id.151223/.f