Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Greetings all.

I recently acquired a moderately old Benrus 3-Star Automatic wristwatch. It's a #7026 Series.

I believe these are from the 60's - though I don't know much about them.

On the back of the case it says "open through crystal". Which makes me think that the Crystal should be removed using a Crystal Lift - and the movement lifted out through the bezel.

Of course, the stem (presumably two-piece) would have to be separated prior to - or during the operation.

BUT - after some googling - I have also heard tell - that the case-back should be pushed out by pressing on the crystal with thumbs. These seem to be incompatible methods - but I really have no idea - as I have never seen a case like this. 

 

Does anyone have experience with this type of case from Benrus? I can post pictures after I get home - if they are needed.

 

Many thanks!

-Paul

Posted (edited)

This is a typical benrus case they been making these since the 40s. You have to remove the crystal using a brass jaw type crystal remover. Once it’s out you have to separate the split stem. I could explain how to do it but a video is much easier and there are plenty out there. Just do a search on the net “ how to remove a split stem” and there is a tutorial on Esslinger.com on how to use the crystal remover.

https://blog.esslinger.com/how-to-replace-a-watch-crystal/?_ga=2.79089757.839292711.1581400550-1065094695.1581400550

what i will suggest is to use a wire cutting plier and go from the outside of the case not between the movement and the case to avoid damage. Do not pry just allow the tapered shanks of the pliers to pull it as you close down. You may need to do pull it a bit yourself just make sure you pull straight don’t wiggle or pry. It may take some force so don’t be shy with it.

do not push on the crystal and remove crystal before separating the stem

Edited by saswatch88
  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, saswatch88 said:

This is a typical benrus case they been making these since the 40s. You have to remove the crystal using a brass jaw type crystal remover. Once it’s out you have to separate the split stem. I could explain how to do it but a video is much easier and there are plenty out there. Just do a search on the net “ how to remove a split stem” and there is a tutorial on Esslinger.com on how to use the crystal remover.

https://blog.esslinger.com/how-to-replace-a-watch-crystal/?_ga=2.79089757.839292711.1581400550-1065094695.1581400550

what i will suggest is to use a wire cutting plier and go from the outside of the case not between the movement and the case to avoid damage. Do not pry just allow the tapered shanks of the pliers to pull it as you close down. You may need to do pull it a bit yourself just make sure you pull straight don’t wiggle or pry. It may take some force so don’t be shy with it.

do not push on the crystal and remove crystal before separating the stem

Thank you saswatch88.

I have a crystal lift coming tomorrow - I'll try using that.

-Paul

Posted

If this is one of the watches where you press on the crystal, you should be able to see a cut-out around the crown area which allows the crown/stem assembly to move downwards. But since it 'specifically' mentions open thru crystal then that is exactly what you need to do!

Anilv

  • Thanks 1
Posted

if it is a two piece stem , i usually tilt the movement up and slowly turn the stem.( which is split) when the movement is at its highest tilt the split is perpendicular to the case  and the movement can be removed.. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
6 hours ago, clockboy said:

Agree with oldhippy pics are required.

Clockboy (& oldhippy),

I will post some pics this evening. I probably should have done that yesterday when I got home.

As always,  thanks very much for sharing your expertise.

-Paul

Posted
9 hours ago, PaulnKC said:

Clockboy (& oldhippy),

I will post some pics this evening. I probably should have done that yesterday when I got home.

As always,  thanks very much for sharing your expertise.

-Paul

Here are the pics.

I suspect the first one (back) is all that's needed. But including a shot of the front as well.

P2122186.thumb.jpg.27f78f06f26647eea98beb7d348acc0a.jpg

and the front...

P2122188.thumb.jpg.a769d1210c67101f8388edca90bacffc.jpg

 

Thanks!

-Paul

Posted
12 hours ago, yankeedog said:

Yup..remove crystal  tilt movement  out as previously  discussed. If I remember  these have a very nice ETA automatic. 

The rotor is signed Benrus Model FE 2D1. The Base plate is marked UI 2451. Which is apparently an ETA 2451. The auto-winding mechanism is affixed with blue screws - so, at least a somewhat nice movement.

I am not familiar with these. The rotor is super noisy. Don't know if that's normal for this mechanism. Or if something is wrong.

This one is going back to the seller for a "re-check". It keeps pretty good time but the timegrapher traces are all over the place. Even with the movement removed (from case) - and held directly in the timegrapher.

-Paul

Posted
1 hour ago, PaulnKC said:

The rotor is signed Benrus Model FE 2D1. The Base plate is marked UI 2451. Which is apparently an ETA 2451. The auto-winding mechanism is affixed with blue screws - so, at least a somewhat nice movement.

I am not familiar with these. The rotor is super noisy. Don't know if that's normal for this mechanism. Or if something is wrong.

This one is going back to the seller for a "re-check". It keeps pretty good time but the timegrapher traces are all over the place. Even with the movement removed (from case) - and held directly in the timegrapher.

-Paul

Here are a couple of pics of the movement...

P2132189.thumb.jpg.40dd7e181e02a97f206fa35546491927.jpg

P2132190.thumb.jpg.a5482d7a0b5aa74b4306dbb1002c6616.jpg

-Paul

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Sorry I didn't get back sooner. Because I lost Cookie my cat I wanted some time to myself. Nice to know you had the help you needed and it was successful. Keep up the good work. Members on here always like to help. Photos really help.  

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi Paul, Looks clean.

ETA 2451 and its family are true work horse. Rotor should be quite, normally can,t be heard and hardly ever develops a fault, if no slack and falls under own weight, should be OK. If it rattles, check winder module, clean lube reversers.

If the rest of the watch looks good , could be for keeps.

I thought you was going to service it yourself. 

 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
2 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Sorry I didn't get back sooner. Because I lost Cookie my cat I wanted some time to myself. Nice to know you had the help you needed and it was successful. Keep up the good work. Members on here always like to help. Photos really help.  

oldhippy, I am so sorry to hear about the loss of Cookie. My wife and I foster homeless cats and dogs. Plus have several of our own. Take solace in the fact Cookie had a great life with you while she was here.

 

Posted
1 hour ago, Nucejoe said:

Hi Paul, Looks clean.

ETA 2451 and its family are true work horse. Rotor should be quite, normally can,t be heard and hardly ever develops a fault, if no slack and falls under own weight, should be OK. If it rattles, check winder module, clean lube reversers.

If the rest of the watch looks good , could be for keeps.

I thought you was going to service it yourself. 

 

Thanks Nucejoe.

Yes, I would normally (try to) do everything myself, but in this case, the watch was supposed to have been serviced. So, going to give the seller a chance to make it right. Having said that, I may be trying to sort some things after I get it back.

So, I may add on to this thread for more help, as needed.

Thanks!

-Paul

  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I believe @nickelsilver has a setup like that.
    • I posted pictures earlier in this thread. My lathe and mill are two separate instruments. I think I have seen examples of putting a milling head on a lathe bed...but not certain.
    • Timex Camper, September 1994, new to me. Strap is an old perlon with "Germany" in script etched into the resin on the tail end. Not Horlon or Eulit I believe. History unknown, running strong, losing less than a minute a day. Goals for this: Wear it a ton! Buy crystal lift, clean out the gunk around the ring and under the crystal Eventually swap into a stainless steel case. I've seen a member who has swapped a Timex mechanical movement into the Timex J.Crew quartz field watch case.
    • One of the problems we would have with a watchmaker's lathe is they were made over considerable span of time and manufacturing in the early days probably wasn't as good as it was today. Then if you look at the older catalogs typically it was just the head a few collets and something to rest graver on. So basically a basic lathe with over time things acquired but acquired things may or may not fit. Order today you purchase a used lathe that all kinds of nifty bits and pieces from a seller that acquired from? This would come back to that the basic watchmaker's lathe was used for basic watchmaking like turning things with a hand graver. Then limited indexing is fine because you can make things like stems Which don't need a whole bunch indexing   In the link above the word vector is mentioned and at the link below you can purchase one. Then of course you're going to need the motor that's a little bit extra for the price. https://www.hswalsh.com/product/lathe-vector-watchmakers-48-collets-hl11. That you're going to need some bonus parts like these found this picture online show the classic way of classic gear cutting.   The lathe could have a much bigger indexing disk but it has to be mounted close to the edge. Otherwise you're going to have a whole bunch of smaller disks like this which I think has notches rather than holes. Then as wonderful as these pictures look actually cutting a gear with this is not entirely fun. Look at all is belts all pulling on things and this is a watchmaker's lathe lightweight with lots of bits and pieces attached. It would make more sense if you actually cut a gear with something like this and it tends to be it's not really the best way to do it looks nice on paper but it is not the best way to go. Reality for cutting watch parts would be a bigger machine is much better. Than getting rid of all those belts and pulleys also good. Here is an interesting channel I would've liked of found a different video but this was nice and short if you look at his video as he uses a stepping motor and worm gear assembly for the indexing plate. In this particular video it gets attached to the lathe at about one minute and seven seconds and it looks like it's hiding looks like he has a Sherline. I do know he's had other stuff you'll just have to go through his videos to find it. Then at about one minute and 22 seconds you find out if you set up things appropriately. It's always bad we end up with half a tooth at the very end. Then you will note big lathe yes he's getting a big gear but you could easily cut a watch gear with the setup. And it definitely way more stable than a watchmaker's lathe.         Oh here's a company they been in business since 1911 http://www.fwderbyshireinc.com/  
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
×
×
  • Create New...