Jump to content

Roger Smith's Heating Apparatus


SparkyLB

Recommended Posts

I'm watching the 10-part "Hand Finishing" series of videos for the 50th or so time; something of which I can't seem to get enough.  Would the forum be so kind and tell me what the white honeycomb-looking mineral(?) is that he uses to protect his table from the heat of his torch? 

I know bricks would work fine, but I'm curious.  If it's available to me, I'm going to acquire some. 

I'm going to give hands a try. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

I haven't seen the video but there used to be asbestos pads for torch work which were replaced by another mineral later on. He probably has an old school asbestos pad or modern equivalent.

Thank you, nickelsilver. 

In case you're interested, it's at 50 seconds in.  Don't blame me if you become attached to these 10 short videos!  :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I liked how he heated a brass block to indirectly blue the hands. I also appreciated it when he admitted to not getting the colour correct on one of the hands. That’s always a bummer. I think you’d be more likely to get consistent heating by using brass filings, but the visibility is inferior compared to his method. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, rodabod said:

I liked how he heated a brass block to indirectly blue the hands. I also appreciated it when he admitted to not getting the colour correct on one of the hands. That’s always a bummer. I think you’d be more likely to get consistent heating by using brass filings, but the visibility is inferior compared to his method. 

Agreed, since is not as efficient holding onto heat as cast iron or copper; there's more of a gradient.  This would cause brass heated from one side to always be much hotter where the flame is.  I like how Roger never brings flame close to metal to be blued.  Seems that Roger Smith's intention is to move the piece about such that the finished product can be as uniform as possible.  He admits the improbability of bluing 3 hands identically.  It's a learned skill, but what isn't? 

As for the bed of shavings offering inferior visibility, this seems like a large part of the equation.  If you watch, the color starts on the bottom and rises quite fast to the top.  If embedded in shavings, one might very easily miss this transition. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One of my horology tutors used to blue steel over a naked flame. I can’t remember the correct term for it, but he was very good at it. The key is to be very gradual, so you sweep through quickly so that the colour doesn’t progress much at a time. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe bluing of parts etc was done over a spirit lamp aka  Donald De Carles book , as its easier to control the process.  Some years ago I watched a TV programme on Roger Smith from his workshop on the Isle of Man  the  man is a Genius in the watch making world , Hand build chronometers brilliant.

As regards the heat pads  There used to be asbestos from storage heaters, the modern ones Fischer I believe use the ceramic pads so a source there if you are looking for some, but keep the asbestos bagged up and dampen before use. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I read that same article last night  H.  I think epilame is too much headache for me, sources aren't always accurate, some conflicting. Such is the GRAVITY of this situation, Is it ok if i just STICK  to a thixotropic oil 🤣
    • Not sure I follow along. As I stated in one of my previous posts, the epilame will remain intact between rubbing parts as long as the surface is lubricated by oil or grease. Maybe it's just a coincidence, but note how the epilame-treated surface is illustrated in @Waggy's post. It looks like the oil is exposed to a binder (epilame!) so that it can't move sideways.
    • The epilame under the oil will also be removed  Unless the oil makes a barrier between the epilame and the escape teeth 😅 I think i need two strong coffees now 🤣
    • If we use the rub-off epilame method of pallet stones (run dry for a few minutes before applying the epilame) where will the oil go/be transported when it is pushed away from the impulse surface by the escape wheel teeth? Onto the epilame-treated sections of the pallet! Once the oil has been applied/transported to the epilame-treated sections of the pallet where will it then go? Nowhere as the oil will remain on the epilame. So, perhaps the run-dry method defeats its intended purpose leaving the pallet impulse surfaces dry!? If, on the other hand, we do not remove the epilame from the pallet stones where the escape wheel teeth come in contact with them I'd expect more oil to remain where we want it and need it. Yes, I agree, that is the question, and my gut feeling tells me that is exactly the case. Epilame was created to have an adhesive trait and the oleophobic property is just a side effect.  
    • Might that be the viscous nature of oil resisting gravity H  ,  we have been comparing water and hydrophobic surfaces which are similar in principle but water is much less viscous than oil. I guess what we trying to discover is if epilame also has an adhesive trait as well as being oleophobic. Plus the oil dropet has very little mass for gravity to work on, like watching tiny water beads that can grip onto vertical glass until they are connected together to increase their mass then run down. Gravity isn't the only factor at play when oil is placed on pallet stones. The oil receives a lot of bashing that may push it out of position ? Thinking about it if the oil stays in position for 10 minutes enough time for the escape wheel to scrape off the epilame , then  a walled in lubrication has been achieved,  the epilame is no longer beneath the oil ( possibly mixed into the oil )
×
×
  • Create New...