I am currently messing about with a Chaika 1601 movement which had a very loose cannon pinion (gears turned but hands not moving). I tried nipping it up but managed to mess it up, so it is of no use now. I have got a new unused cannon pinion but it just slips on and has obviously not been crimped (is this normal?).
To fit/crimp it to the centrewheel pinion, do I crimp it in situ (I have a tool that will do this) or do I do it away from the pinion (I do not have a core pin that is small or hard enough to fit, so cannot do it off the movement). The movement is from a ladies watch and the cannon pinion is very small with the bore about 0.3mm.
I have been working on an old Doxa antimagnetique that doesn't run, and stripped and cleaned it. However, as I am putting it back together, the cannon pinion, which seemed friction fit when taking it off, isn't friction fit after all. There is an hour reduction wheel on top of it with what I think is a friction collet, but that one is completely loose. See picture below. Question: do I simply bend the collet to make it friction fit again? It feels a bit rough to do so but I assume that's the way to go? This is a Doxa 103 movement, based on ETA 2391.
Any help much appreciated!
Continuing this theme, here is a Raketa 2609.HA from the mid 1970s immediately post-op, and the same watch some 12 hours later, both dial up.
The big balances in these 1800bph movements make for some nice stable traces, and allowing everything to bed in has improved the picture immensely. Nothing has been done to the watch between the first graph and the second, other than wearing it on my wrist for a few hours, and letting it sit overnight. The improvement is entirely down to the fresh lubrication doing its work.
You mean from the outside pressing in? A men watch doesn't even fit vertically under the stake. Then, some tubes have a step and won't leave in that direction. https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/box-sets-of-tube