Jump to content

Question

Cheers Mates!

 

Working on a Omega Cal. 613, have done service, and watch performs well on the time-grapher, but when put dial and hand on, I can see that the



 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

12 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

I'm just about to start on one of those myself (my very first OMEGA), so I'm very curious to see where you were going... Any chance you'd like to finish that post, please?

Cheers!

Edited by VWatchie

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
24 minutes ago, VWatchie said:

I'm just about to start on one of those myself (my very first OMEGA), so I'm very curious to see where you were going... Any chance you'd like to finish that post, please?

Cheers!

USP technical error..

1 hour ago, arkobugg said:

Cheers Mates!

 

Working on a Omega Cal. 613, have done service, and watch performs well on the time-grapher, but when put dial and hand on, I can see that the second hand is ticking uneven, it sort of jumps 2 and 3 seconds at the time.

Is this an cannon pinion  issue??

 

1 hour ago, arkobugg said:


 

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
2 hours ago, arkobugg said:

Cheers Mates!

 

Working on a Omega Cal. 613, have done service, and watch performs well on the time-grapher, but when put dial and hand on, I can see that the second hand is ticking uneven, it sort of jumps 2 and 3 seconds at the time.

Is this an cannon pinion  issue??

 

 

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

Do you have the centre-seconds friction spring set correctly? It should cause enough friction to drop the overall amplitude by around 5-20 degrees. With it set too loose, you will see slack in the meshing between the 3rd wheel and CS pinion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
1 hour ago, rodabod said:

Do you have the centre-seconds friction spring set correctly? It should cause enough friction to drop the overall amplitude by around 5-20 degrees. With it set too loose, you will see slack in the meshing between the 3rd wheel and CS pinion.

You mean the spring this is under this bridge?

How can I see or how to adjust right??

rød.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
1 minute ago, arkobugg said:

You mean the spring this is under this bridge?

How can I see or how to adjust right??

rød.jpg

This is how it performs in the timegrapher without dial or hands

time.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

That looks like very good performance.

Remove the C/S cock and look at where the spring attached. Also check if it is contaminated with oil. You can then very slightly bend the spring (just lift with your tweezers) to create more pressure and therefore more friction to reduce the "slack".

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

I was air between the spring and the pinion, so after a little fiddling, a got in nice and easily onto the  pinion, and I got this on timegrapher,

I will try with the hand now an see...

 

time 2.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Answer this question...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Similar Content

    • By arkobugg
      Cheers mates!!
      Had to get new winding stem to an Omega cal. 342 , beacuse not original crown.
      Got an replacement from Ronda, but does not fit.
      Tried to fit the stem yesterday, but Im not able to get in in right in the movment.   The original just go right in every time, but the new Ronda stem will not go properly in.   Are there anyone that have some ide why this not fit?   Can the notch in the stem where I have put red arrow have somthing todo with this??   Its slightly smaller on the Ronda stem...  se photo  

    • By Harmines
      Hello all
      i wonder if anyone could offer some advice. I have an Omega seamaster 1345 quartz day date. Working well. However it seems the date is stuck (as shown in pictures) i know the push button at the 4 o clock position is meant to filter through the date? However when pushed in nothing seems to happen. As a result of this the watch works fine but only up untill 11pm it doesnt turn over to midnight and therefor change the day or date. Minute hand works perfectly but it seems i have to change the hour position every morning.
      when i turn the crown, hour hand moves fune and after the 12 o clock position changes the day, but date does not moth along with it.
      anyone know how i can resolve this safely without removing too many parts of the movement? 
      Many thanks




    • By Harmines
      Good evening everyone. I am new to this forum and i can see we have some outstanding experts on the site.
      brand new to watch repair and looking to get some advice. I purchased an Omega seamaster quarts 1342 watch (not currently working and not tested) as it was a bargain and understand that 329 is the equivalent of the original mercury battery used when the watch was manufactured?
      I am hoping the battery change will mean it is functional but in the event it does not work, how easy/costly is it to repair. (I’ve heard parts can turn this bargain into a money pit)
      would anyone in this community willing to have a go at fixing it after i try battery change?
      paid service of course.
      any help advice would be much appreciated
      thank you 
       
    • By RyMoeller
      This one is a real mystery so I thought I'd toss it up here in case someone else has come across this problem.
      I've reassembled the Speedmaster which was lacking parts (see my earlier inquiry) and have it up and running again.  It's a long story, but amazingly, after missing a bundle of parts and being terribly neglected it's ticking away happily and the chronograph works a treat- but there is one BIG problem.  The watch runs about two seconds per minute fast.  That adds up pretty quickly.  The timegrapher trace isn't too clean but it is consistent and it shows the watch running much better than that (note the image only shows about fifteen seconds of testing on the timegrapher- rest assured, I've had it on there a lot longer than that and have pretty much the same results in all positions)
      So why does the timegrapher show the watch running less than a minute off per day but the real world results are so much different?  Well there are a few possible problem areas.  The escapement may be the problem but the pallet and balance (complete) are NOS replacements from Omega.  The escape wheel may be an issue- perhaps it's "slipping" and the pallet isn't locking consitantly.  I haven't seen this on the timegrapher though nor have I seen it while watching the escapement under the microscope.
      Still, there are some obvious issues in the movement.  Whoever disassembled it before I got it made a real mess of things.  For example the Delrin wheel on the coupling clutch was vandalized terribly by a wayward screwdriver.  It took quite a while to get the gear teeth back in order  (the "before" picture is below).  I secured a NOS replacement just in case the movement didn't accept the repaired coupling clutch.

      Despite this damage, I don't think the coupling clutch is the problem.  The fourth wheel is positioned between the coupling clutch and the escape wheel.  It's regulated by the escape wheel and the running seconds hand is attached to the fourth wheel.  When I time how long it takes for the running seconds hand to make a full revolution using the stopwatch built into my iPhone, I come up with 58.02 seconds (give or take a few tenths).
      I'm thinking the problem lies with the fourth wheel. The Lemania 5012 chronograph movement (Tissot 2920) runs at a slower 21600 BPM.  The replacement of the fourth wheel in this movement (a Lemania 5100, 28800 BPM derivative) with one manufactured for the 5012 movement would result in the watch running fast.  It's questionable whether the gear teeth would mesh properly though.  Right now it's just a guess.  I may need to tear the movement back down to check the gear ratios for each of the wheels in the train to confirm they're the right wheels for the  movement but before I do that I was hoping someone might have solved a mystery such as this before and have some good advice to offer!  Thanks in advance for the comments as they are always helpful! 
      Here's a few pics of the watch as it came together- just because posts with pictures are always more interesting.  
      Before service begins...

      Why you should periodically replace your spring bars-

      Omega gaskets self destruct (turn into tar) if they aren't replaced for forty years...


      This movement is plastic fantastic but I love it.  Other than not keeping time at all, it's the easiest chronograph movement I've worked on.

      Look at all those scratches- previous watchmaker's tool of choice- screwdriver or machete?

      It is a pretty beast though. 

    • By arkobugg
      Cheers mates!!
      Got this into my bench, but I wonder how ta get the movment out?
      I have taken of the glass, removed the stem, but when I trie to move the ring with grooves(red circles) the movment follows anti clock wice.
      Is it so simple that I have to hold the movment tight while Im doing it?

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • A nice clean example. Worth the money I would suggest.
    • I'd suggest cousinsUK.com (England). I live in Sweden myself and being a tiny country it's almost impossible to get any spare parts locally. So far Cousins has never failed and their customer service is just brilliant. Good luck with your project!
    • If You look at the top of the page for Resources, go to parts, tools suppliers and click on the country you live in and try the links provided.
    • Just got started with restoring my Tissot Seastar Chronograph, 40508-9X, ser# 2418468, mod 870 1277, vintage early 1950. Need to replace the crystal and seal, maybe hour and min hands (not a must). The dims of the crystal are: 28,55 OD X 27,0 ID X 3,5 high. Mat is plastic, the shape is domed. Uses an ID metal ring, which is OK. The seal measures: 33,0 X 31,0 X 2,0 Can't find it in the US... Does anybody have those parts or where can I get them?   Rainer  
    • Great thought. To prevent any marks from a tool such as a metal screwdriver, I could fashion a plastic pixie stick or a piece of peg-wood to a flat end and give that a slight twist for control. Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
×
×
  • Create New...