I am currently messing about with a Chaika 1601 movement which had a very loose cannon pinion (gears turned but hands not moving). I tried nipping it up but managed to mess it up, so it is of no use now. I have got a new unused cannon pinion but it just slips on and has obviously not been crimped (is this normal?).
To fit/crimp it to the centrewheel pinion, do I crimp it in situ (I have a tool that will do this) or do I do it away from the pinion (I do not have a core pin that is small or hard enough to fit, so cannot do it off the movement). The movement is from a ladies watch and the cannon pinion is very small with the bore about 0.3mm.
I seem to be having a run of loose cannon pinions, especially on small calibre (ladies) movements. Don't have a tool for tightening so would like advice for suitable tool. I have seen the Bergeon pliers type but wow are they expensive! Do not want one that needs jeweling tools etc to use it. Any suggestions/sources most appreciated.
If the broach starts to bind in the hole a little oil will help. For your first attempt you have done well. I’m not too sure of the bush you have chosen the hole has very little depth to the pivot and plate. This is why I always made my own. Here are two sorts of bushes that I recommend. Bergeon and KWM I wouldn’t use them. Bergeon clock brooches cutting and smoothing are one of the best, I don’t think they cover the sizes you would need for Longcase (grandfather) clocks I might be wrong. There is another type of bushing when you have experience, that is called invisible, that is when you can’t see that the clock has been bushed.
Thank you @JohnD. This seems like a sensible 50th birthday present if not an extravagant one considering his demographic and the era. That's not to say he didn't rise above that demographic. It would be cool if our watches came with detailed provenance, sadly we're left with guesses and dreams.
Finally... Bush fitted - hole broached to the needed size, and the video below was the test fit to see if it all worked and looked OK.
The wheels spins smoothly though all angles (it was not lubricated at this point) and the bearing endplay looks fine too.
Not shown in the sequence but done anyway, was my attempt at polishing the pivot from the worn side. It was marked and oldhippy said it really should be done. I did not have any correct tools for this, but did have some hard pith wood and very fine rouge, so had a go with that, using a small hand-drill to spin the wheel. Before and after through the loupe did show a marked improvement, so was worth doing. (Naturally, I polished the pivot before broaching the pivot hole...)
All I need to do now is to rebuild the works and sort out the escapement depthing and, hopefully, this old clock will keep time again.
I would welcome comments, views on the process etc. as this was a learning task for me. I also have to say thanks to all who commented and gave tips earlier, as you certainly gave me the confidence to "have a go".
This is an fusee English lever pocket watch. The customer said that it was only running for a few minutes and then stopping. On first inspection the amplitude was almost non existent but strangely was running. I presumed a good service would resolve this issue BUT alas the same issue. I stripped again and inspected every part with a microscope and found a bent guard pin + the banking pins had been bent. Apart from this I could not find anything. The balance pivots show some scoring but just a tiny touch it swings fine. Believe it or not, the amplitude now (see vid) is twice as much as what it was. My suspicion is the pallet is not the original and the horns are just a touch short so the impulse pin is not swinging the hairspring on impulse. Just wondering if anyone has come across this error,I'm a bit lost at present.