I just bought A Mido watch pre-owned and certified COSC of course it must be a really accurate watch right but at least +/-10second a day worst
But this watch run fast like 1- 1.5 minutes a day...from the movement blue screws i see that the watch has never being serviced since it first owner,
I want to ask,does this watch need service or this watch got magnetize? Cause it just run fast 1-2 minutes fast and i see many articles say that magnetize watch can run fast to hours..
ETA Calibre 2772 Service Walkthrough Pictures – Disassembly
(Please sort the pictures by name in ascending order)
ETA Calibre 2772 Service Walkthrough Pictures – Assembly
(Please sort the pictures by name in ascending order)
For the disassembly sequence to make sense it is important that the pictures are sorted by name in ascending order. Generally, the sequence of pictures first shows the part to be removed in its position on the movement and the following picture shows the removed part along with any screws that held it in place.
For the assembly sequence to make sense it is important that the pictures are sorted by name in ascending order. Generally, the sequence of pictures first shows the part to be assembled along with any screws holding it in place. If needed, the following picture shows the section of the movement where that part is to be assembled along with my lubrication suggestion, and the picture after that shows the part when assembled to the movement.
Note that this is not a maintenance servicing tutorial. To be able to service a watch movement some basic tools are required as well as some basic skills. It’s not difficult but it requires a bit of practice and perseverance. I’ve used a lot of sources on the internet to learn about servicing and repairing but watchrepairlessons have so far not only been the best source but also the most affordable source I’ve come across. I am a patron of watchrepairlessons but I’m in no way affiliated with it.
Prior to servicing this calibre 2772, I’ve serviced an ETA calibre 2472 and two ETA calibre 2824-2s and the kinship between these movement is obvious. The 2472 is from the mid-60s, the 2772 is from the mid-70s, and the 2824-2 is from the early 80s. They all have the same type of distinguishing train. The keyless works of the 2472 and the 2772 is of the more traditional type whereas the keyless works of the 2824-2 quite a bit more sophisticated. However, the calendar works of the older 2472 is by far the more complex with its instant flip over of the date. It has been very interesting to study the similarities and differences between these three related automatic ETA movements.
Hello dear watchmakers!
I am now working on a SU movement, Slava 2427. It is a manual-wind movement with day-date complication
I am trying to assemble the watch back together after service but I am stuck on the day disc.
The day disc is fitted OK in my view, teeth underneath the disc interacts with the click and the disc advances naturally as other motion works move clockwise.
However, the problem is that the days written on the disc are not in the right position and do not fit inside the day window of the dial.
What could I have done wrong??
Good evening everyone. I am new to this forum and i can see we have some outstanding experts on the site.
brand new to watch repair and looking to get some advice. I purchased an Omega seamaster quarts 1342 watch (not currently working and not tested) as it was a bargain and understand that 329 is the equivalent of the original mercury battery used when the watch was manufactured?
I am hoping the battery change will mean it is functional but in the event it does not work, how easy/costly is it to repair. (I’ve heard parts can turn this bargain into a money pit)
would anyone in this community willing to have a go at fixing it after i try battery change?
paid service of course.
any help advice would be much appreciated
No registered users viewing this page.
The coil from @JohnD arrived in the post and set about modifying the metalwork to allow it to squeeze in place of the original. An hour or so of careful filing and Dremel work and it now fits like a glove. I also took care to ensure that the new wiring is double insulated with a few patches of Kapton tape a nylon bushing to replace one of the original brass nuts and some heat shrink sleeving ensuring that there is little chance of this ancient synchronous motor giving anyone a shock, even if the thing is dropped or the wires are pulled. I can't remember where I got the strange dayglo green cable ties from, but since nobody will see them, who cares about the colour. It got a good clean while it was apart as unsurprisingly it was filthy. The worm gears both had a thick pasty gunge on them that probably started life as either grease or oil. All of the bras surfaces were sticky and nasty. Surprisingly it worked first time. After gingerly flicking the brass starter on the rear I let it run for about 10 minutes to see if it would overheat, but it was fine. No shocks, no smoke, no nasty electrical skid marks, no scary surprises. I then stripped it all down again and gave everything one more clean to ensure that I had removed all of the dust and filings from the modification and rebuilt it again gave it a proper oiling. This time though when I flicked it into life, it started to click ominously. My initial fear that the insulation might be breaking down and the coil arcing were unfunded, I has simply misaligned one of the gears and it was jumping. With that remedied I buttoned it all back up again and it is now sitting in my explosion containment test stand (the fire hearth) and whirring away with a low but pleasing hum. The patented tick also works. If you look carefully in the pictures of the mechanism you can see that it consists of a small steel blade that rides over some serrations on a brass wheel. Each time it falls off a tooth on the wheel, it clicks. The teeth are arranged to it ticks about twice per second. I've switched this off for the time being so I can listen out for any other strange noises it might produce. If testing goes well, then I'll case it back up and let it run, so I can see if it keeps good time. After that comes the tricky bit. Making a replacement for that wooden decorative trim. Here are some pictures of my test fitting of the coil, showing the modified brass top plate, the plastic spacer and some close up shots of the gearing.