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Howzit ramrod , 10 running and about 3 or 4 for in the works . I need complete balances with good coils for the 505 and complete contact springs for the 500's .Hard to get parts .There are donor movements for sale , and not cheap , but there's no guaranty on the parts being good ....Similar to Accutron donors . There are a couple more electrics I want to get and a few mechanicals of similar design . The problem is I started out with the more available , less expensive models . It's an uphill climb from here .

Make me appreciate my accutron even more.

Great video! I was given an Accutron recently and now I have a much better appreciation of its historical significance and technology.

jdrichard ask how to clean an electric watch . I am going to start this thread by posting from the Hamilton Electric watch manual.... And from the Accutron 218 Service manual.... With the Hamilton electrics it is a normal service cleaning procedure , EXCEPT for the Balance wheel . The balance wheel has a coil attached that should not be subjected to harsh chemicals , alcohol , or petroleum based solvents . I am speaking of the coil itself . As for the rest of the components on the balance staff I use a hairspring cleaner applied with an eyedropper directly on the hairspring and a fine cosmetic or watercolor brush to clean it and then lay it on absorbent paper and use my blower to dry it . I also use the brush to clean the the other parts on the balance shaft ,...and there are quire a few little goodies on it , and use the hairspring cleaner or 91 percent Isopropyl alcohol .

Howzit Shirley , Thanks for the kind offer of the service manual . I have a couple of versions . Some I found online , some in some watch repair books I have , and one really good one I bought online . Both the 500 and the 505 are pretty hard to get parts for . You can find donor parts for sale on ebay , but they are heavily sought after and expensive ., Most offerings say that the balance turns freely which is something you would look for in a mechanical watch , ...but the balance assembly has all the other parts on the shaft that have to be good to be usable . Also the 500 needs the plate with delicate trigger and contact springs . They get broken or knocked off very easily . I saw one of your posts where you mentioned you had Accutron parts . I will get around to sending you a PM to inquire about those parts soon , if that's OK ? Here is a pic of what the Everest looked like with the black band.... And here's a pic of what the Pegasus Model looks like . I just noticed that the pic didn't make it to the party in my original post .... Cheers , Louis

Just as a note of interest, timekeepers like the Bulova Accutron were electro-mechanical devices. The oscillating mechanism (tuning fork) was connected mechanically to the hands with a solenoid and ratchet mechanism. What some people call an electronic time keeper has to do with the way the tuning fork oscillations are counted. It was known for many years that running a current into a quartz crystal would cause the crystal to vibrate. Since the vibrations occur on an atomic level they vibrate at a much faster rate. The problem was quartz crystals were too large to fit into a watch. Japanese engineers figured out how to reduce the size of the quartz crystal by machining it into the shape of a small tuning fork. This allowed a much faster vibration that was not practical to count mechanically. This problem was solved by using a digital counting register available in an integrated circuit. The circuit works by using a string of 16 flip flop circuits. A flip flop circuit is the electronic equivalent of a latched relay. Logically it does the same thing but on a practical level flip flops operate at a much faster rate. The upper time limit of a relay is based on the response of its mechanical components while the upper time limit of a flip flop is based on the speed of electricity. The first 15 elements of the register count the vibrations from 2^0(1) through 2^15(32,768). The next vibration moves the count to 2^16 which is used as a flag bit. At this point the register is reset and a polarity reversing circuit is triggered. This circuit provides the necessary pulse to drive a stepper motor. A stepper motor consists of a rotor with a north-south magnetic field projecting radially from the rotational axis. When an electromagnetic field is generated around the armature it rotates to the field of opposite polarity and stops. When the field is reversed the armature again moves and stops. The direction of rotation is controlled by making the path of one field longer than the other. The stepper motor is connected through a gear train (plastic gears) that drives the hands. david

That second link is fascinating! I gotta save that one. This is my first exposure to the beta series. I've never heard of them before This Titus. I'll take a look at the movement tomorrow. I can say this about it: the second moved more smoothly than any of my other swissonics but it is NOT in the range of Accutron smooth. The ticks are barely perceptible. I should put up a video. So, I can assume that the dial says beta because it is a beta. Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

My name is Shirley. I have been fascinated by watch repair since the sixties. My father was a watch repairman for over fifty years in San Antonio, Texas, USA. He was a railroad watch inspector for Southern Pacific Railroad back when they used to have their watches inspected. That was before quartz watches. He worked on a lot of Hamilton, Illinois and Elgin pocket watches. When Bulova Accutrons came out, he worked on a ton of those. In fact, he wore a Railroad Accutron for many years. For a decade or so, he did watch repair by day (in my uncle's jewelry shop) and worked on the railroad at night. Eventually, he retired from the railroad and bought the jewelry store from my uncle and did watch repair full time. When he got older he developed Parkinson's and his hands became too shaky to repair watches. I bought his tools and thought I might try my hand at it, but it wasn't as easy as my father had made it look. I decided to take a watch repair course, but didn't get very far before my father became too ill and I had to quit and move back home to help take care of him. In the course, I had learned just enough to strip me of any false confidence I may have had. I can take a basic watch apart and put it back together... I don't promise I could repair it. But I'm dragging the tools and a few old watches out and trying my hand at it again. Mark's videos have given me back the confidence to try. I really look forward to interacting with any fellow watch repair friends here. I hope not only to learn a bit, but maybe share a bit of what I learn also. I will definitely take photos...

Ah thank you. Somehow that makes me feel better inside (as well as provoking laughter on the outside). Related- I serviced my father's Accutron about two weeks back. I spent more time on my hands and knees than I did sitting at the workbench. This is not an exaggeration!

Welcome, from one who does a lot of fishin on the bay, from my experience have found many good whole watches in "lots" that contain some pretty junky trash, the downside is you are left over with copious amounts of usually quartzers that are not worth any effort to fix. Also, some sellers are totally unaware of value, so that's a plus, other sellers try to strategically place an Accutron or other mid to high end watch in a pile of junk. (just to sell the lot), again if priced right in your budget you can have success. The one thing I watch out for is 'running' statements, I have seen sellers list watches as running, but they stop after short time, usually indicates an automatic, I have seen non-running auto's in need of battery! Still even other watches are out of category on the bay, so generic searches on manufacture/brand name, then check sub categories for more detail. If you do your homework and research the brand you want to work with you may find buying a bit more rewarding and yes a functioning watch is better to work on to start with then trying to diagnose and repair a broken one. Agree with oldhippy on this, I have been to estate sales and picked up Accutrons for as little as $25. I bought a 21j pocketwatch from seller on Clist for under $100. But look for complete watches, case, dial, hands, crystal, movement, bracelet/strap, once you get to working on them, less time and $$$ will be spent on parts. Condition is everything! so dials or hands that have rust will probably mean scrap. Good luck!

So, a lot of the guys on this forum really know their stuff and are heavily involved in servicing and the like. Some of the other forums have groups of 'fanboys' (I suppose they might be called) who will defend their brand of choice to the death. I got into horology through Seiko because of their low entry point (for mechanicals). To use an analogy, I'm probably still using stabilisers when it comes to knowledge. What I'm getting at in a roundabout way is....Should I be surprised that so many people on this forum love their Seikos so much? N.b. I've got several Seiko watches, so to mix it up a bit here's my Bulova Accutron Deep sea from 1970 (same age as me)

Ive just joined after watching many of Mark's excellent videos on Youtube. They have taught me many things and reminded me of many I had forgotten... I'm now 55 and slowly getting back into watch-repair. When in school at age 12 or so I used to mess around repairing, and by age 16-17 was OK-ish I thought, even tackling an Omega 861 with complete success. I would never contemplate doing one now however! I Thought at the time that there was little future in watch-repairs as the Q revolution had taken a big hold so went into electronics repair instead I was pretty wrong!..... Is the age of 55 too old to get back into this?--I dunno maybe, but with lots of loupes and glasses plus a £5 microscope from ebay I manage--so far! I'm particularly into Accutron Tuning-Fork types and have a number of 'Vicims' I have four 214, four or five 218's, and a couple of 219's most running well Recently Ive aquired a couple of ESA 9162 types One of these, a very poor Tissot looked as though it had had a very hard life and was used as a donor for others--Even the bezel is missing from the case, Both coils faulty, missing hour-wheel etc, Very sad condition but does have a nice blue dial. I managed to fix the coils, (the windings themselves were good, or I wouldnt have stood a chance.) The TR coil had a broken transistor and the RC had a high value resistor (4M8 instead of 3M3) so both the res and cap were replaced (One benefit of being electronics engineer!). bought a new hour-wheel, serviced it now its working good, so the hunt for bezel is on.... This afternoon, I'm going to tackle an ESA 9164 in an Omega, See what sort of mess I can make of that!

Wow Seiko 7A38 , I don't know where the links for your Yema watches went , but that Yema Spationaute iii is Super .. My dinky Yema Meangraf pales by comparison , but I like it . One of Yemas rally models ... I started off this topic sharing some of the watches I have become attached to because of the various repair issues I had with each , therefore gaining an affection for them . Now I will share some of the watches that are truly some of my favorites . Each one of these just makes me feel good when I wear it . First off , top left is my Breitling 42 Abyss. The first real nice watch I bought a few years back before I started watch collecting . The depth rating for this one is 5000 ft . To be honest , I can't hold my breath for that long . To the upper right of that watch is an Accutron Astronaut . The favorite of my Accutrons . I like the look with the coffin link watchband . This model has the 214 movement . Just below those two watches is my Omega Planet Ocean . To me a very handsome and accurate watch with it's Co-Axial movement . What's not to like about this watch . The only white dialed watch in this group is a Junghans Max Bill design automatic watch . It has a classic look with the Bauhaus style . I had wanted a Max Bill design watch for a while and stumbled into this one at the pawn shop . I had bought , sold , and traded watches with the owner in the past , and he gave me a deal on this one I couldn't refuse . To the right of the Junghans is a Seiko 6105 - 8110 diver that I also got in the same Pawn shop . I looked like it had been under water for years when I got it . Salty , crusty , and not very good looking . To my pleasant surprise when I opened up the case back , the movement was immaculate and all of the gaskets were still supple . They did their job . I traded the owner straight across for a Seiko 6309 - 7290 diver that I had that was looking real good to him . Last , but certainly not least is my Omega Speedmaster Mark ii Chronograph . A good looking , good felling watch on the wrist .This watch came out the same year , 1969 , as the Omega Speedmaster Moon watch I hope you enjoy looking at them as much as I do ....Aloha , Louis

Hi all, greetings from sunny South Africa. I'm looking for some advice on pall setting/alignment methods used for bulova accutron or eta/omega 9162 or similar movements. I have been serving / restoring these for a few years now and it's always a pain to align/set the alignment. If anyone could point me in the direction, or know of any documentation on official service procedures I would be greatly appreciative. Regards, Jason Mauer

Hello and welcome! There are Accutron specialists hanging around here, I'm sure opinions will be plentifull.

Hi, I'm looking for some tips on how to best deal with removing battery corrosion from a plate. The plate below is from my father's Accutron 218. The battery failed and leaked at some point leaving a salt-like deposit that seems to be insoluble. I've tried an acid bath (vinegar), alkali bath (sodium bicarbonate), and good old fashioned elbow grease to no avail. At this point I'm thinking of just letting it be since it seems the plating is flaking off beneath and the corrosion shouldn't impact the function of the movement. If anyone knows about a magic bullet though I'd sure like to hear.

I'll bet that's a tough question for most regulars on this forum! In my collection I'd have to say my favorite is my Navitimer 806 which I wear every day (it's actually the only watch I wear) just because I've always loved the extra functions that are packed in for aviators. From the perspective of a watchmaker though- my father's Accutron 218 is hard to beat. I've only just begun work on it and I am absolutely in awe of the craftsmanship of the movement.

Have you looked inside the case back? I know these sometimes get changed, but I have a gold plated Accutron in my "To Do" pile and it is marked with the plating thickness inside the case back

Accutrons are not for the faint of heart. My father gave me his Bulova which he received as a wedding gift from his parents and it also wasn't working. I popped in a new battery and it came to life except that the hour and minute hands don't move. From what I understand, rusty cannon pinions are common which result in a watch that appears to run, the hour and minute hands just won't move. I've looked under the microscope and there are two jeweled pawls that contact a wheel with the tiniest teeth you will ever see (it really is the most amazing mechanical watch), well long story short, I've had it in my desk now for about six months and still don't have the courage to attempt a service. I do have a PDF of the 218 service manual if you need it though. It's readily available on the internet although I cannot recall the site I located it from. Also have about fifty Accutron crystals too. Let me know if you need one and I'll drop one in the post for you.

When you put in the battery , [Negative side up ] , and it runs , all is good . If nothing happens , tap it at 9 or 3 o'clock as Geo suggests . It may run , or just the second hand will move , or it may just start to hum ,....all good signs that the coils are good . If it just humms or just the second hand moves it will require a service . It should probably be serviced any way , but not a job for the feint-hearted ....There is a place advertised on ebay that does flat rate service on Accutrons ....Star findings I believe . Here is the link for the Accutron page which is a plethora of Accutronism ..... http://members.iinet.net.au/~fotoplot/acc.htm Here is where you would test the coils with a volt / ohm meter .... Good luck......

There is someone that service Accutron watches? They also service Omega.f300 . Can't remember it right now but will google. Other then that you have Electric watches in UK . He is fast and has good prices. Worth considering even if the price is hi to ship there?

Let's try a Bulova Accutron Space View 214 movement dated M1 , which converts to 1961...

Hello Robert, Welcome to the forum from another tinkerer. I also enjoyed making the watch o scope amplifier and it worked with help from Stefan. I then had a birthday coming up and received a timegrapher rendering the work a bit redundant. I also made a variable power supply to use with my Accutrons courtesy of the Accutron Site. I would like to point out that my knowledge is very basic but I enjoyed making the units from the circuit diagrams. The help I received from Stefan was typical of help I have received since joining this forum where you are made welcome and given a helping hand if it is needed and at some stage I am sure you will be able to reciprocate. Cheers, Vic

As above--Any device around that can read the 360Hz of Accutron and 300Hz of ESA types recommended? Or shall I look for a frequency-counter with high resolution...

Ive made up a variable PSU just for the job, from 0 to 2.5V. It uses a precision voltage regulator and a multi-turn pot, a 30uA Ammeter and a LED Voltmeter. It is supplied by a 7.2V battery of two 18650 rechargeable cells. Ive not tested how long it would supply a movement considering the batts supply the LED voltmeter as well, but I expect a couple of weeks would be possible on a single charge. Most of the parts I had hanging round. The voltmeter on it is for monitoring the supply sent to the movement, so apart from checking cells--its somewhat better than an Accutron tester, as its continuously variable supply from 0 to 2.5V, great for finding the Lowest Phase voltage at which a movement will run that I find Much more accurate for phasing than any other. I do have an Accuton 700 test-set Somewhere, but havent seen it for a while, I must search it out, , the ammeter would be better than the cheapo thing I used in my tester! Thanks to the web, Ive a few manuals on the Accutrons...