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No, the recommendation is not to lubricated pallet pivots period. If you have time you can observe yourself what's the difference in amplitude between having dry or oiled pallet pivots.

Never oil the pallet pivots. If you do it causes drag, if you watch the action of the pallets they only move from side to side. A very tiny drop on the faces of the pallet stones is all that is needed. Some repairers prefer to just oil a few of the escape wheel teeth and by the rotation of the wheel; this will automatically oil the pallet stone faces. You must always use oil that is recommended for watch escapements.

How about oiling just the pivot-endstone interface? I think that comes under pallet pivots. Which I mentioned. Oil on the inside of a endstone will seep down to the pivot. Gravity plays a big part it is bound to run down.

Thank you! Before, I was holding the barrel in place and turning the screw, but I think it was still turning the ratchet wheel. When I held the ratchet wheel in place instead, it worked!

My guess is it had what the kids call a NATO strap nowadays, a web (could have been leather) strap that's just threaded through the spring bars. Probably gold filled case, once the gold was worn through the base metal eroded away. What movement is in there? Hamilton had some beautiful wristwatch movements. May be worth having the back repaired (can be filled in with gold solder by a good jeweler).

Thanks, guys! I don't oil the pallet pivots but having endstones threw me. I'm not going to oil them (or the hole jewels either).

How about oiling just the pivot-endstone interface? Isn,t this D skinner's question?

jdrichard - Yeah, I've poked and prodded every crevice and tried every trick in the book (without damaging the movement). Maybe Citizen HQ has some kind of tool, or else they just yank the thing out and replace the movements en masse when these guys are sent in for service. Gpsluvr - yeah, I'll never take in one of these eco-drive's with a one-piece case again lol. And it seems like the route you went with unscrewing the crown is probably the only one. Now I just need some pliers small enough to fit into that gap (and strong enough to hold the stem). Thanks, guys!

Hi Good to know its up and running could have been an off center pivot on the balance enough to be a pest. well done

That's the ratchet wheel. You will need to remove the screw, block the wheel with a piece of pegwood or toothpick so you can unscrew it. 9 times out of 10 they are regular right hand thread, but as watchweasol said it could be left hand. Try gently both directions, increasing your force till it goes. They upside of doing it like that is if the thread is a little stuck, often tightening it slightly will help it loosen. Seems odd but it works.

It is called barrel lid. Just keep the ratchet wheel from turning as you undo the screw. Best would be to soak the whole parts you show in first pic, in naphta overnight, naphta penetrates the thread of barrel arbor, this would reduce the risk of the head popping of the screw. Regards joe

It is a Seiko day for me too.

Yes with a quick look at the serial numbers , mine 5543286 and yours 5557368 indicate they are made at the same time period around 1919-1920. The movement is not for sale but I can donate it to you. I have a couple more in my stash so I dont have any use for this one. If you haven´t changed adress I'll send put it in the mail for you tomorrow.