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BobHadababyitsaboy last won the day on December 8 2015

BobHadababyitsaboy had the most liked content!

About BobHadababyitsaboy

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  1. What's with the vitriol?? That seems pretty unnecessary... Nevermind i read that wrong, I thought you were saying that I was dumb! haha!
  2. This is probably a dumb question, but are you suppose to oil the pivots of movements with no jewels? If so, is there a certain way it should be done?
  3. The old movement you have is missing half of its parts, which I'm assuming your friend may have removed. As JerseyMo said though, its a Miyota 2115.
  4. Cas-Ker (www.jewelerssupplies.com) carries a lot of Seiko crystals. Give them the model#, which looks to be 2620-5580 in this case, and see if they can supply you with one. After that, remove the movement, knock out the old crystal, scrape off any old glue, and install the new one using 2 part epoxy.
  5. The movement would be an E820. There should be an arrow pointing to the small indent where you will be able to press down with a pair of sharp tweezers and remove the stem.
  6. I've recently obtained an old cleaning machine (an L&R Master from probably around the 50's). Two of the jars don't have lids, though. Would it be okay to get around this problem by putting plastic wrap or something over the jars when not in use?
  7. I've found that the G&S glue doesn't really work very well for crystals, it doesn't create a strong enough bond. I usually only use the hypo cement for re-gluing dial markers, date windows, etc. I would recommend a two part epoxy. I personally use the Devcon 5 minute epoxy - it dries clear and creates a strong bond.
  8. With a reliable pair of calipers, it's generally pretty easy to measure the exact size of a crystal you can remove intact. If you have to break the crystal and measure the inside of the bezel, I would generally measure and order -.1mm, size measured, and +.1mm. Crystals (especially simple flat ones) are pretty cheap and the shop I work at will usually charge around $30, so there's still plenty of money to be made. And, like Ishima said, those extra crystals are always great to have in stock, as they will come in handy.
  9. Yeah, I guess it's a bit hard to explain. The case back is separate, I'm able to remove everything (band, case back, stem) but the dial is too large to fit through the back and the crystal is cemented to the case (which is one piece). I can take pictures next Tuesday if I don't have it solved by then.
  10. What do you mean? If it has a case back (one can't tell from pictures) go around its edge with a short razor blade like an x-acto knife until it starts lifting. Because the dial does not fit through the case back opening, it's much larger.
  11. Definitely checked that, too, which is why this has really got me stumped. It's as if the crystal was glued on last after assembling the rest of the watch. The case is composed of just one piece, no separation anywhere (other than the case back, obviously).
  12. Hey there. I want to replace the (ETA quartz) movement in a Rado Jubilé, but I haven't a clue on how to get the movement & dial out of the case. The watch is similar to the pictures I attached - rectangular face with a smaller round case back. It obviously must be front-loaded, but the entire front of the watch is the crystal, no bezel or anything. Does this mean I somehow have to remove the crystal from the front and risk damaging it in the process? Truly stumped here. Thanks!
  13. Is there a certain advantage to either type of rubber case back gasket (flat vs. round)? Would it be improper to replace a flat gasket with a round one instead? It seems to me that flat gaskets are more of a pain to install due to their tendency to twist and tear against the case back. Thoughts? Suggestions?
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