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BobHadababyitsaboy

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BobHadababyitsaboy last won the day on December 8 2015

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  1. jdrichard - Yeah, I've poked and prodded every crevice and tried every trick in the book (without damaging the movement). Maybe Citizen HQ has some kind of tool, or else they just yank the thing out and replace the movements en masse when these guys are sent in for service. Gpsluvr - yeah, I'll never take in one of these eco-drive's with a one-piece case again lol. And it seems like the route you went with unscrewing the crown is probably the only one. Now I just need some pliers small enough to fit into that gap (and strong enough to hold the stem). Thanks, guys!
  2. Thanks dudes! I was hoping that unscrewing the crown from the stem would be a last resort, but it seems like the only way. Although, I'm not sure how to heat up the stem & crown in order to loosen the glue without doing damage to the movement. Should I put it in the setting position and use a torch from underneath? All of the plastic parts and gears make me feel uneasy doing that, as they'll heat up and melt real quick. Oy, what a nuisance!
  3. Lol that's the problem JohnHutchins....I do not want to have to take apart this watch just to replace a capacitor, especially with those annoying/fragile plastic gears. Not worth the effort for a $60 job. I feel like Citizen made it like this in order to force customers to send their watch in for a $200 service that takes 6 months (in which they will just rip the stem out and replace the entire movement). Shame. You might be right though, Pip, maybe there's been some sort of manufacturing flaw or unseated piece that is preventing the stem from coming out. Shit does happen.
  4. Pip - yeah I've also taken a look at the diagram, but thats the assembly from the underside of the movement. And if you look at the dashes, the set lever ends up being set into a place farther up towards the center, which can't be reached from the dial side. This thing is a straight up anomaly.
  5. I can in a couple days when I'm back at it, but trust me, nothing moves upon pulling it out. No set lever with a dimple, definitely not a split stem, it looks exactly the same. Had my boss look at it, too, and we're pulling our hair out. I'll keep ya updated, thanks oldhippy!
  6. Trying to replace the capacitor in this front-load Eco-Drive, but I am completely stumped as to how the stem is removed. I've removed the dial and still can't see any clear way to do it. It's driving me nuts. Thanks!
  7. What's with the vitriol?? That seems pretty unnecessary... Nevermind i read that wrong, I thought you were saying that I was dumb! haha!
  8. This is probably a dumb question, but are you suppose to oil the pivots of movements with no jewels? If so, is there a certain way it should be done?
  9. The old movement you have is missing half of its parts, which I'm assuming your friend may have removed. As JerseyMo said though, its a Miyota 2115.
  10. Cas-Ker (www.jewelerssupplies.com) carries a lot of Seiko crystals. Give them the model#, which looks to be 2620-5580 in this case, and see if they can supply you with one. After that, remove the movement, knock out the old crystal, scrape off any old glue, and install the new one using 2 part epoxy.
  11. The movement would be an E820. There should be an arrow pointing to the small indent where you will be able to press down with a pair of sharp tweezers and remove the stem.
  12. I've recently obtained an old cleaning machine (an L&R Master from probably around the 50's). Two of the jars don't have lids, though. Would it be okay to get around this problem by putting plastic wrap or something over the jars when not in use?
  13. I've found that the G&S glue doesn't really work very well for crystals, it doesn't create a strong enough bond. I usually only use the hypo cement for re-gluing dial markers, date windows, etc. I would recommend a two part epoxy. I personally use the Devcon 5 minute epoxy - it dries clear and creates a strong bond.
  14. With a reliable pair of calipers, it's generally pretty easy to measure the exact size of a crystal you can remove intact. If you have to break the crystal and measure the inside of the bezel, I would generally measure and order -.1mm, size measured, and +.1mm. Crystals (especially simple flat ones) are pretty cheap and the shop I work at will usually charge around $30, so there's still plenty of money to be made. And, like Ishima said, those extra crystals are always great to have in stock, as they will come in handy.
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