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Here is a very long video of a person repairing an Ingraham American clock. It is good because it shows how to re-place lantern pinions and re-bushing. I not happy with how he goes about the re-bushing, never ever use a hand drill on a clock, you will now what I mean if you watch it. I’m including a pdf of how the levers work in this type of movement. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7pJFUyYMU1o Levers-2 (1).pdf

Movement may be older than you suspect.it is my understanding that lanco a German manufacturer started out using Swiss movements but switched to durowe movements in the 1930s to avoid depending on Swiss products .pending hostility with the rest of Europe may have influenced this.

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum.

Hi Markus and welcome to the happy factory. There are no stupid questions, but it is stupid not to ask. Everyone has ruined a watch or two, they are very easy to ruin.

Picked up this very clean Longines dress watch with an L847.3 movement

My son today gave me his Seiko Quartz Chronograph that he wears to school with the second Chronograph hand rattling around behind the glass. He tells me it just fell off, but I suspect the watch took a bit more of a harder blow as the minute hand and the large second hand were also knocked out of alignment and interfering with each other. This watch I had given my son a year or so ago after I had used it for one of my projects for my watch class and when I got it the chronograph hand had been loose and I had to tighten it up, so I wasn't overly surprised it had fallen off again. The easiest way to tighten a loose hand if to fit it into the end of a good quality pin vice and do it up so it is just touching the tube and then tighten it a few more degrees so it slightly crimps the tube. You then take it off and check and if still too loose repeat. I did this and the first time it was still too loose and fell back off, crimped it some more and it was still too loose, crimped it a third time and yes you can guess it I did it too tight and now it would not fit. If you do this you then need to broach it back out. I'm lucky in that I have a full set of watchmakers broaches that were my grandfathers so I had one small enough. I held the chronograph hand in my vintage hand pliers and broached it out ever so slightly, checked it was still too tight, so broached it some more and it was a perfect fit. Here is the watch with the hand fitted back on. It was the second hand sitting beside 9. I'm unsure exactly how small the broach was I used, but for comparison here it is next to the tip on my 0.6mm screwdriver and I only used the first 1/3 of the broach This is definitely the smallest hole that I have ever broached out and I'm pleased it worked so well. My son has his watch back so he is also pleased.

it must be the wrong crystol. the inner and outer diameters are critical to the inner and outer ring (bezel). that is the "draw back" of that watch. vin

colored crystals: the color is part of the formula, not painted. vin

Good advice! Problem is the higher sticking friction against lower sliding friction. The force needed to break the regulator arm free is higher than the force needed to move on the sliding arm. Pushing, you cannot avoid to push too far. I made a tool (slotted brass rod with a big radio button on the upper end) for better feeling: the mentioned problem gets a bit smaller but is still there. Now I mainly use a screwdriver with brass blade and tap with the back of my tweezers. Thus you always apply a limited amount of energy and overshoot can be avoided. Frank

Yes it is, when you press the bottom left pusher, it resets to zero to become the chrono second. Top right starts the chrono. It has the Miyota 3s10 movement.

Neat! Center seconds hand?

Yep. "Waterproof" with press on collar. I've never encountered another colored one. It's Avocado green! The color was all the rage at that time. Even on kitchen appliances. It is green through and through. I still have the crystal. Just needs really serious polishing. The watch has black luminous hands on a silver dial and looks pretty good in clear. Eventually!

Instead of pushing on the regulator, try little sideways taps. Here a screwdriver works better than pegwood. Little taps, not hard knocks. This works for me when chasing the last few ms. Good luck. Anilv

A smart idea ! What do you use inside the back-lid to polish with? The 2409 (no date) and the 2414 (with date) and not hard to get. If possible try to get a new Komandirskie, the whole package comes (with a bit of luck) cheaper than just a movement. My experience with used watches / movements is that they (nearly all) never been serviced and therefor their timekeeping is not as good. Most of my 2409 and 2414 run within 5 sec/day. VWatchie is also into Vostoks and here a link to our collection; And yes, the Amphibian hands will fit on the 2409 and the 2414. Broadly speaking the 2415 and 2416 are 2409 and 2414 with additional automatic winding. Quite a few, not all, parts are interchangeable. Hands and dials are. The 2409 and 2414 movement with fit Komandirskie and the Ampibian housings (different spacer rings). The Amphibian housings do have 3x different winding stem-length; the 420-housing the shortest and if I well remember the 110-housing has the longest winding stem. Long stem length; Medium stem length; Short stem length; Through time I have a drawer full of movements, parts and housings. I'n not so keen on the Komandirskie housings as I like the 200mtr waterproof of the Amphibians and they are Stainless Steel, so you can polish them without problems