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The Vostok 2809 is a long out of production chronometer grade movement .Meranom is a great source for current production parts.but not for things that have been out of production for forty years. I have a few 2809 carcasses but not one stem. searches for one online have met with negative results.maybe a 2209 or 2409 stem will work.

Hi welcome to the forum as regards your question by the look of it you are correct, just loosen the screw press down on it and remove the stem

Tension ring (armored) crystals are straight sided, and need to be pressed in. The non-tension ring, or wedge-ledge or whatever the given manufacturer calls them, need to be compressed to snap in. Either the claw tool or a crystal press with a cupped die and pusher for the center of the (interior) of the crystal will work. They aren't interchangeable- though that hasn't stopped people from trying!

Static poising is the balance wheel only with the roller. So to help with poising the first link has lots of interesting stuff including Joseph School of Watch Making. You're looking for unit five which is in the second link an example of poising. https://www.mybulova.com/vintage-bulova-catalogs https://www.mybulova.com/sites/default/files/file/Joseph Bulova School of Watch Making - Unit 5.pdf

I am affraid the moisture have already taken it's toll and all over the movement too. I would have taken and do now, take the watch to service centers. Moisture ruins lubricants. In general, as soon as the moisture appears, the dial should be dealt with. Placing the watch under direct sun light or expose to other very mild heat, also taking the movement out to submerge in lighter fluid and blow dry helps reduce the damage, before you urgently get the watch to service man. There are some treatment to somewhat clean the dial. Depending on the value of the watch, the job should be entrusted solely to professionals. Do not attepmt yourself. Regards joe

Never heard of a Vostok calibre 2809 (but I guess I could be wrong). Are you sure it isn't a 2409? (very common, and very reliable, in my experience). If so, then yes, the stem is the same for all 24XX movements. Definitely, the same for the 2409, 2414, 2415, and 2416B which are the ones I have been working on. Looking for a replacement? I'm curious, so please tell us more! I'm a big fan of Vostok watches and their 24XX movements.

Can't help but have you tried Meranom.com? I think it may be the factory outlet for Vostok.

Hi marg, as long as your nose isn,t stuck permanently and you get it back unhurt, I,ll be happy to talk watch repair.

Dynamic poising isn't a panacea though. The watch has to be in top shape, and especially the escapement and hairspring in very good condition before doing it. Good to do a static poise first if an old watch or the staff has been changed. That said it really is the best/easiest way to get close positional rates.

Hi Andy, I see your old timing machine and raise you an old French watch cleaning machine? Old school cool....! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I picked up a few watches yesterday . One of them was this Omega Jumbo Hand wind cal 255 piece . I also picked up a Cal 254 with the lot I got from a local craigslist ad , The seller had a truckload of used watches , but most were cheap , quartz watches that hadn't worked in a while . I was able to Pick up 8 watches that to me had some potential for collecting or resale if they work after cleaning , and installing new batteries on about 4 of them . One of them was a hand wind Timex Marlin that is working and looking good . Anyway , this Omega 255 was fully wound , but not working . I took off the back and the first thing I noticed was quite a few Watchmakers ID's scratched into the case back . On closer inspection I noticed that the 2nd to last coil on this Brueget hairspring was wrapped around the regulating arm . Not bent in any way , just installed improperly . After correcting that situation , the watch took off running and has been keeping accurate time since Yesterday . The case measures in at 35.5 mm W/O crown , And the watch has a nice size presence on the wrist for a vintage watch . I believe this watch is from the 60's . I have to get more into how to date Omegas ,....one of these days . The Omega 255..... And the Hand wind , waterproof Timex ,...Marlin... [I THINK ....]

It's so impractical to do it makes no sense. If you want better positional rates than poising alone can give then dynamic poising comes in.

The rubber ball uses friction. The ball is slightly deflated to cover the entire case cover. You’ll have to press down against the cover really hard and give it a lot of umphhh. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn’t know how much I needed a rubber ball type case back remover until I got one. Just be careful where you buy it from if you’re in a hurry. I got one from Amazon as I was getting some other bits, but it shipped from China and took weeks to arrive!

I've been putting together a small work area that I can use when I'm in the mood to work on a watch. It's nothing fancy but I do find it both comfortable and useful. The table is a repurposed computer desk that I moved from the bedroom since I no longer keep my laptop there. The chair is an original 1930's oak swiveling office chair with arms. I rescued it from a print shop that was going to toss it out close to 15 years ago. It needs refinishing but as it's older than me and I'm not in line to be refinished, it'll have to do as is. The lamp is a Dazor 2324 articulating twin tube desk lamp that puts out quite a bit of light. I'm currently awaiting a response from the manufacturer about whether or not they offer a kit for converting this lamp to LED lighting. If not, then I'll collect up the pieces that I need and do the conversion on my own. The US is going to phase out all fluorescent tube production in the future as the bulbs contain Mercury and are an environmental hazard. I've already converted all of my other lamps in the house so this one will be the last. Various watchmaking and repair tools are stored in the desk. I don't really have that many tools as this is a hobby enterprise for me, not a real vocation. I've learned so much since becoming aware of Mark's videos and joining this forum. The watch on the desk is a Seiko solar powered dress watch. I don't wear it all that often so I'm letting the lamp and the natural light from the windows charge it up.

What is the spacing of the holes Dan? I don't know where you'll find the "right" tool, but there are a number of options... Searching for TH3 security screwdriver will get you 3.35mm between the outer edges of the holes. TH4 is 4.45 You could try a pair of mini circlip pliers, or a pair of dividers. You could make your own - take a sort strip of steel, bend over one end and file a slot then round the edges to make 2 pins. Or if you wanted to take the crude approach, 2 tapered clock pins cut to fit snugly in each hole and a pair of pliers.

Here is a shot of the screw

I've never seen screw heads with anything other than slotted screws in Swiss watch movements, although Philips head screws are used in watchcases and Seiko. Maybe this will help? J