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You don't need all the sizes to match, especially for handwound where winding torque is not a major issue. Search for "mainspring formula".

I have never used one either. I have fitted some by hand after repair breaking all the rules no doubt but they have worked fine !!.

It might just have to do with the fact that many things weren't standardized back then. I think that any watchmaker (whether pro or amateur) has had various headaches due to the fact that many movements out there just aren't the same as others in various respects...

Seen that in some old movements . Not sure why either. As a result i have seen lots of stripped threads on the screw and the barrel arbor.

Some were threaded clockwise, some anti-clockwise...

I have the Bergeon Winder 1/2 set but had to modify it to work. i found the hole that accepts the spring when winding galas too small. However if you see a Master craft winder I recommend you purchase. See pics to see how it works.\

I never used a watch mainspring winder. I could not get on with them. There for I cannot help you.

Just think how many brand new mainsprings you could buy with the price of that largely ornamental set. These go from the packaging roundel to the barrel without any tool.

Acetone for the balance and HS ! Superb cleaner and the best de-greaser and old oil killer/cleaner. Period !.

Hi, Thanks for the help. The picture, video of the movement outside of the case with new hands installed. I ordered the hands day before your comment, it seems I ordered a little longer based on your comment. I will check the size again and get shorter ones. Next step is to add back to the case and see if it still works. IMG_1803.MOV

I was there a year ago, and very, very frustrated. The solution came in the form of a stereomicroscope. I can't remember the cost exactly, but it was somewhere around $300 with shipping from the US to Sweden. I consider my stereomicroscope alongside my tweezers and screwdrivers indispensable. I just can't do without it! You can read my mini-review of my stereomicroscope here, and if you're interested, read the entire thread where I in the first post express my frustration over not being able to see what I'm doing and what I'm accomplishing when trying to oil those tiny jewel bearings and pallets. Good luck!

I do nearly all my work on x5 then x8 for tricky stuff, as for oiling it come with practice, remember if using a x10 loup you have a 1" work space between the loup and the work. Keep at it it comes quite quickly ok.

I agree. j

If you don’t need to remove then don’t. Oiling will be a bit fiddley, so oil it before you put the rest of the train in. As the rest of the train and bridge came apart so it should go back, again it will be fiddley. If you are not careful in trying to remove it, you could damage the wheel, pivot and even the jewel.

10x for inspection and escapement oiling is the normal, you can get a higher strength. It all depends on your eyes. These days I would need the highest strength, I’m as blind as a bat when it comes to small objects. What I used to repair, now I can't even see.

You are correct it is friction fitted. When removing you MUST remove with an even pull to avoid damage. Re-fitting should be done with a staking tool to ensure a straight push.

It is pressure fit and should come off with hand levers of the tool @clockboy mentioned. J

I have not worked on that calibre but I would think the wheel should come off using a puller.. I'm surprised the bridge came off with the wheel attached. The wheel removing tool required. I think this is the calibre that was serviced. https://thewatchbloke.co.uk/2015/05/13/bulova-calibre-11/

You measure from the centre of the dial outwards to about 2 thirds over the numbers, make sure you leave enough room for the hands to go round, you do not want them catching on the inside of the glass. Then you pick a style and colour that is suitable to the dial and case. If that is the case you want chrome or silver looking.

Below is how a good watch looks. https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=503401