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Spot on and well researched. The conversion is very crude. The other thing that stood out a mile is the so-called pattern that the back plate has. That has been added at a later date, I expect it was added at the same time that converting it to an anchor escapement happened. Fusee clocks, Many run by a chain, they also have steel wire, bronze wire or gut. You might think they look dangerous, but they are quite safe.

This is common in Russian watches and should be put back in place otherwise the balance will not have enough end shake and you will encounter poor balance amplitude, they are an absolute pain to put back sometimes they are hard to keep in place.

I don’t want to burst your bubble and you asked for my view. Unless you have a lot of experience, it will be extremely hard to pull this off. It looks good on paper but to get it just right I don’t think it will work. Silver solder is quite soft and you will not have the space for the solder to have a solid grip. Why don’t you put it to the side and keep checking for a spare stem.

Just some food for thought. I've noticed that for quite some time now there has been a constant shuffling of postings among the forums. If it were an occasional out of place posting from someone using a phone, for instance, it would be understandable. It seems that this is not the case, and that many people, myself included, are mis-understanding the intent of each section. For instance, there is nothing that states that the watch repairs help and advice forum is not for "consumer" questions. If that is the case, then it should be stated, and perhaps a section created where folks can post those kinds of questions, answered by the people who have the patience to do so. I'm just concerned that the forum will get the kind of reputation that some ah, other forums have, where the members are seen as curt and overly dismissive of naive questions. Not welcoming, in other words. Any thoughts? Or am I being overly sensitive? Thanks

Well, today i finally got my Cowells 90CW lathe. I have to say that I am pleasantly surprised at how well it is held. I can only be extremely satisfied ...

May not provide sufficient torque but a rubber tool like one to remove camera lens retaining rings will be fairly gentle to the case. Can pick them up on eBay cheaply Sent from my Redmi 4X using Tapatalk

I think Mark and us mods could discuss this. I have contacted Mark and the other Mods to seek their views.

It's the Sekonda Poljot 2614.2h. All cleaned and I'm starting the re-assembly and I noticed the shims...

I haven't been doing much watch wise, but lots of work on watch tools. I ended up needing to make a bunch of parts for a lever action tailstock for a small Schaublin lathe. I have the factory main casting and quill (the critical parts) but all the auxiliary bits are missing. The lathe is a duplicate so fortunately I had a set of parts to copy from. First is the tailstock drawbar. Toughest part was it’s a 11.75 mm metric buttress thread. For those not familair, look at the collet; the flanks are 45 and 5 degrees vs every other thread that is symetrical. It took longer messing about grinding the tool than cutting the thread, but it worked out well – its for a W12 collets Next up, is the tailstock lever. Not particularly difficult, but man, it was a lot of whittling! Files and die grinder mostly after roughing to shape in the mill. The turned portion I did by measuring the existing one, making grooves every ½” to the right depth, then roughing and finally finishing by hand turning. I stuck the dull end of a 1” boring bar out in front of the work grabbed a large radius nose tool (maybe 1.5” radius, ½” tool bit) in a pair of vise grips and went at it as you would with a graver in a watchmakers lathe. Paint is sprayed via airbrush, with talc in it to reduce the gloss. In the last pic, I have some touch up to do….the quills were slightly different dia so I had to grind a bit out of the inside so it would fit. Its watch tool related, but for a sure little different for this site so thought you might find it interesting....now back to the salt mine!

I'm not exactly sure what you mean but I have been having an idea for the "repair help and advice" section of the forum which you and others might like. What if there was a sticky topic in that section (sticky as in it won't get lost down the page) called "Quick questions, quick answers" where people can ask simpler stuff, maybe even post a photo, and someone can simply reply and then just have someone else ask something else and so on. The advantage of this is that there won't be any topics about "how do I change the battery on this watch?" or "how do I remove this stem" and it'll be a dedicated topic where experienced folk can offer pertinent answers to those trying to solve a simple issue.

They are about the same. Got them today. Haven't tested yet but so far so good.

Wearing a Nivada Aquadatic Antarctic 21jewels for the last few days. Time has been kind to it and the dial is very clean. All it needs is a new crystal as the current one has a small crack at 9 o'clock. It has an ETA1256, all other ETA automatics how their origins in this movement. Anilv

good luck and "Gods speed".

Since this is a pretty complex ana-digi movement I would only clean it if it is dirty on the inside (which is usually unlikely). For the most part you're only going to have to clean the inner keyless works where all the metallic non-electric parts are (the ones that turn the hands) and lubricate them. Anything that is electrical just use an air blowing tool and lightly clean them (especially the contacts) with something soft, maybe a soft brush. You have to take it all apart to reach the area where the gears/wheels are. You'd need some special grease and oil for them. Usually they use quartz watch oil. Can't remember what I used specifically.

I was looking at my hi-fi, started thinking about mainspring winders, timing machine and others I will need and thought the hi-fi was a bargain. As for the course, it’s really good. I have bought some books previously, watched videos etc. but never had full understanding of the basic stuff how everything works until now. I’m looking forward to Level 3