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I bought some black acrylic sticks just now . They looked good.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PLEXIGLAS-Acrylglas-Rundstab-klar-5-mm-x-1000-mm/362045491116?hash=item544b97c7ac:g:aBwAAOSwVL1WAaAg This was the first i found . They looked good . Have to dig farther back since it was some time ago i bought. Have a few left i am sure i can part with them.

@rogart63 Sorry I missed the point initially. These tweezers come with mirror finish out of the box. They are filed under hand specific pickups. Perfectly rounded. It feels super safe to handle hands without he fear of scratching them at all. I don’t use them for anything else to keep them in good shape. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

5 mm plexisticks can be bought on Ebay for peanuts.

This is the extent of my Pick-up armamentarium. Next is tweezers to manipulate cap jewels Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes!! That’s it, ASCO highly recommended. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not tipped per se, and they're not as easy to find, but I recommend anyone have a pair of bronze tweezers, more precise and durable than brass but still has that perfect little bit of softness that makes handling awkward parts easy and reduces risk of scratches. I picked up a pair of 'asco' bronze tweezers from ebay, an apparent swiss manufacturer, they were about £20 and they're absolutely superb.

Oh, the other “investment” should be a plexi stick. I wasn’t a believer and was using wood and the red one that flakes! Since I got the plexi it doesn’t leave my left hand [emoji1303] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

no comprendp vin

If that is the case I would check the staff for wear, also the jewel.

Agree with what has already has been said but also was there by any chance a thin shim under the balance bridge when you assembled.

Make sure the balance cock is not bent. Also, make sure the bottom plate area that is the place where the balance cock and bottom plate meet doesn’t have any nicks or imbedded marks; this could cause the balance cock to rest at a funny angle when screwed down. Is the balance staff in good condition?

Check the end shake of the balance staff like vinn3 suggests. I have serviced pocket watches and sometimes they do require small "shims" to increase the end shake and get them to run properly. J

my point is; a speed controler on ebay might be made where the current is 60 cycles and when attached to a motor that is 50 cycles --? ka boom ? and several kinds of moters (some without brushed or magnets). i am happy to be a machinist and un lucky with electricity. vin

I was referring to the UK.

all foot controlers are not the same. dosen't the UK have 50 cycle current? the US has 60 cycle current. check out Granny's sewing machine. its GOOD to have a "double E" in the in the forum !! vin

There aren’t any.

Nice watch! With regards to the pushers. Methinks you don't have a watch with one pusher sticking too far out. Instead you have one with the pusher stuck halfway down. I would recommend a good clean of the case and pushers/crown for a start. I don't know how capable you are with regards to watches but a general clean-up is well within the capabilities of someone with basic watchmaking tools. You need to get the watchback off first, then remove the crown (if I remember correctly the button is accessible thru a hole in the plate) paying attention to the spring and gear which turns the inner ring.. these should come out with the crown/stem assembly. You then have to press both pushers in a bit and while applying pressure remove the movement spacer. Once the ring is out the pushers will pull away as the movement ring is the only thing holding them in. Once the pushers and crown are out of the watch the movement will just drop out of the case so be careful not to drop it. A good way is to place a movement pad (or a round thingy) on the rear of the watch, flip the whole thing over and lift the case off, leaving the movement sitting on the movement pad. Once you have the pushers and crown out of the case you can use some sharpened pegwood to remove bits of DNA from the recesses of the crown and pushers. Work on a piece of clean paper you can throw away later as it can get pretty dirty. Once you've got them clean you can use some Zippo fluid or similar to flush them out followed by a final pass thru with fresh pegwood. Put them aside for the moment. Next remove all the springbars from the strap and examine them and replace if they're rusty or bent. Seikos usually have good springbars but neglect and wear can ruin them. The clasp may have a fixed bar instead of a spring bar on the end where you pull so don't worry if you can't get it off. Just try to pull it apart and if it holds then its good. Once the parts are out give them a good scrub with soap and water (only the strap parts! not the case!). Hot water helps and if you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner so much better. Next pay attention to the case, especially around the holes where the pushers and crown goes..there will be some dirt in there as well. Clean them up followed by cleaning the area where the watchband goes. Next go around the watch exterior cleaning everything. The o-ring will probably be as hard as a rock and you will probably break it when trying to remove it. There is no escaping this as this is a common area for rust. You will need some o-rings and some silicon oil on reassembly here. ebay usually has some acceptable parts or watch factors may be able to help. The gap between crystal and crystal ring can be cleaned with a sharp pegwood.. likewise the seam between crystal ring and case. Amazing how much dirt accumulates. Finally use a clean soft tissue to wipe the inside of the crystal and blow out with your puffer tool thing to remove the dust from the tissue. If you are tempted to polish out the case with autosol or similar..be careful around the edges as sharp edges are a key point in maintaining the value of the watch. Now get rid of the paper with all the dirt and replace with a fresh one. You now rebuild the watch starting by lowering the case onto the movement (which you have perched on the suitable round thing), This is easier to manage than dropping the movement into the case. Once lowered, flip the case, movement, round thing over as a unit and remove the round thing. Next lightly oil the seal on the pushers with some silicon oil and insert them into the case. If they seem tight swap them around and see if that helps. So now you have the case loose in the movement and the pushers in their tube, applying light pressure (not enough to activate the chrono mech) on both pushers, reinstall the movement ring, making sure it seats fully in its recess and then remove pressure on the pushers. Next oil the crown o-ring with some silicon oil and insert the crown/stem back into its place. It should click nicely with no drama as long as the movement is lined up correctly with the hole in the case. Finally get the new o-ring into its groove having first oiled it with some silicon grease and re-install the caseback followed by the freshly cleaned strap. This is as far as you can go without access to new parts and some more advanced skills. The problem with these Seikos is basically the hands.. or to be more specific, the seconds hand. Chronos need a seconds hand which can be indexed to the pinion so the relationship between the two does not change. Seiko does this by having a flat side machined on the end of the seconds pinion. A new seconds hand deforms when installed and so will not move. Pattern parts are available but I've heard some horror stories on the quality. New old stock (NOS) may come up for sale but at high prices. Used seconds-hand will not work as the flat on the pinion is not in the same place on every seconds pinion. Assuming you have managed to secure a new seconds hand, it needs to be installed with some force, enough to get it down the pinion, deforming as it goes. As you're pushing it down you need to ensure the pinion does not move. The proper movement holder has pushers which allow you to press the reset button in while pressing the new seconds hand down to ensure it is exactly on the '0'. The movement itself is pretty simple as far as chronographs go. If it looks clean when you open it up I would say its ok for an occasional watch. On these watches a typical sign it needs a service is if the watch stops with the second hand at the 58 seconds mark or thereabouts. If you're planning to use it more often then a service by someone who knows what they're doing is required. Restoration with aftermarket parts is possible but I believe these unmolested examples are more sought after now. A notch case denotes an early watch but the 'water-resist dial means it is not the earliest as the very early ones had 'water-proof' on the dial. The crystal is polishable but I think its better done by a proffessional. There are some experts on polishing crystals here so maybe they could comment? Enjoy your Seiko.. Anilv

Nice one. Looks okay to me. The upper pusher is a shorter version. That is to short. Gummed up pushers is usually gaskets that is sticky. New gaskets you can find on Ebay or from VTA . Other then that it looks like it's original. https://thespringbar.com/blogs/guides/the-seiko-6139-600x-collectors-guide

Yesterday we went to visit our old neighbours for tea & mince pies before Christmas. When we arrived they presented me with an old leather bound box, inside was a collection of vintage watches like a mini treasure chest, Swiss makes I've not heard of before plus others, one even working ! enough to keep me busy for a while.

When I started this movement it was a right rust bucket, anything that could rust had nearly. the barrel was a mess and the keyless works were a homogeneous mass of rust. So after a couple of weeks of intermittent work it is now back working, just got to see the timing situation. This was my first attempt at changing a balance staff, hence this topic, it has gone very well with the help I have received and I therefore thank you for your input. This could only be done after studying Marks fantastic Vid's.

Careful that thing doesn't put out a massive EMP blast and knock out the entire blocks electricity you live on [emoji12]