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Careful that thing doesn't put out a massive EMP blast and knock out the entire blocks electricity you live on [emoji12]

It's not the fluids that would go anywhere it is the quite volatile fumes from them that could I think they are ideally stored in the screw top lidded jars found on most watch cleaning machines. Well yes I can relate to that having a attic and cellar full of such nice things I often visit my collection of curios, and stare at them with the thought running through my mind "what on earth was I thinking" the name they like to give it now a days is compulsive hoarding my better half having suffered my collection for a long time prefers to call it useless junk, things came to a head quite recently when she suddenly declared " I want my living room back" which to be fair did resemble Steptoes junk yard.

Hello, I started working on watches maybe two months ago, and so far, I managed to gather some basic tools, and clean and oil few movements. I work as fire safety engineer in Germany, and always had interest in mechanical watches, but not actually the courage to work on them. I followed some of the walkthroughs here, and they are great. What I discovered is that after the first period of frustration (losing watch parts, lack of organization etc.) working on watches brings me satisfaction and teaches me how to remain calm. The feeling of hearing the watch ticking, after a long period of not working, is priceless. Hope I will learn much more here, and get in contact with other people as well.

That's very easy, just use search box on top right.

There are many thread in this form which discuss the very same questions you've made here. E.g. BTW, you should not use grease on keyless, perhaps grease-oil. Then when it comes to cost and watchmaking hobby, you can't expect certain things to be cheap, that include a good selection of quality oils. Still less than bring it for service to a professional.

There is no place at least for watches like this, which were made for export, outside Japan. Then when it comes to buying parts there are no large "material houses" which sell online, like there are in the West.

The phrase that jumps to mind is " more money than sense"

Ridiculous amount for that watch. Just because of owner.

I just had to have it - if only to complement the high quality of this forum...

It looks to me just to be a ultrasonic cleaner from the 1960's with each bath having its own transducer if there is only one socket I suspect each one would have to be in turn unplugged and plugged in, I cant see it being much of a watch cleaning machine as there is no agitation on any of the baths . And I certainly would not want to put watch cleaning solvents into a 50 plus year old electrical device such as this without having it looked at by a qualified electrician first, and by the look of the baths they have no covers to them so would require emptying and filling at every use. I think it may prove to be as much use as a chocolate teapot.

Have a look at these links with regard to your Unicorn watch. http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/blogrolexbrands.php http://www.qualitytyme.net/pages/quality_time/restoration_oyster.html Nearly an old Rolex! The movement is a "BTC" which stands for Beguelin & Cie SA, Damas and Tramelan.

Nice work JD ive yet to switch my lathe on, still waiting on the motor to turn up, then to mount it all on a nice e board, whats the app you use on the iPhone? Also can't quite believe the price of gravers , pretty pricey but I suppose they last awhile if looked after, time for another bhi watch fair to pick up some more second hand tools methinks

If you want to get into manual watch repairing I always suggest you start with a pocket watch, they’re a lot bigger than a standard manual watch movement, you learn how to take it to pieces and put it back, you don’t need to bother about repairing it just practice, this will help you in using your screwdrivers and tweezers. Get to know what the parts are called. Do not work on fusee pocket watches, as those are completely different to manual watches

Hi Winston, Its kinda hard to explain without pictures and the explanations below may not be correct.. just general guides. Date jumper, If you put the date wheel on the movement it should be easy to locate where this goes. If the spring is not integral to the jumper like other seikos the cut-out for the spring should give away the position. Date dial guard, place the date wheel on, rotate the date guard round, it will fit in only one position. Tips, any chamfers on the holes should fit upwards as these are where the screws will go. Look out for any circular cut-outs as this will be where the date driving wheel/finger or balance jewel will be. Day jumper.. since you mention this as a separate part, this usually goes on top of the date dial guard.. similar to that you need to move it round and get the holes lined up. Day-date corrector, this is kinda tough.. I think it just sits on the keyless works and is held by the date dial guard. I googled the 4216 as I'm not too familiar with it and I believe that its basically a 4205 (which itself is similar to the 2205) but a bigger size main plate. There are some write-ups on the net about the 2205 and they could be helpful. Kinda of weird that Seiko went to the trouble of making a bigger mainplate when they could have probably bunged in a 7009 or similar. Anilv

"With a bit of luck you will find 6x or 10x scrap 2209 movements on eBay for around $15." Not this one you won't...... " As mention earlier, the Vostok will be the best bet as its fairly cheap" As above.... The Vostok 2209 came in several different variants of differing quality and jewel count. It's basically a very good movement, based on the Zenith chronometer cal 135. The version that you have is the "Volna" or "Precision" grade movement which has the higher jewel count, a larger balance (for improved stability of rate), a Breguet hair spring, and micrometer regulator for fine rate adjustment. To achieve the "Precision" grading as shown on the dial it has also passed Vostoks own version of COSC testing. This is effectively a chronometer grade watch and is considered by many to be one of the finest movements to come out of the USSR. It is quite collectable, and in this format, uncommon. If you damage the balance, hair spring, or regulator you will find it next to impossible to find replacements anywhere, and the standard 2209 parts will not be a suitable substitute. The watch appears to be in great condition inside and out and probably needs only a proper clean and service to restore it to excellence. I would not recommend using this as a starter watch for working on; even though it's a Vostok it possibly has the highest value of the four, along with the Unicorn, which although it isn't a Rolex proper, it is part of the Rolex story and has a following. Of the four you have the least valuable, and easiest to source spares for is probably the Seiko, and on that basis it's probably the best to start off with. However, I would suggest picking up a couple of simple time only manual winding watches nice and cheap off eBay to cut your teeth on before tackling the ones that you have. The salvaged dental U/S cleaner (assuming it is operational) will be fine. Mine was salvaged from a print shop where it was used for cleaning print heads on a high end inkjet printer.

Hi and welcome! The Cyma is nice and quite desirable watch so I'd leave it for now. Its not a difficult watch to work on but it would be a shame if something went wrong with this. Parts are probably available but since you have others.. As mention earlier, the Vostok will be the best bet as its fairly cheap and also quite easy to work with. They are plenty for sale on the net so if you need parts theres a ready source. This applies to the Seiko as well except it has a day and date function and its also an automatic. The fact that it runs is a bonus . If it doesn't work after you put it back together then you know you've done something wrong. The problem with beginners working on non running watches is some issues may be difficult to diagnose. The Unicorn is probably the best of the lot. If I'm not mistaken the ones made before WW2 were a made by Rolex. Maybe a Rolex expert can comment on this? Good luck! Anilv

Bought some batteries for this just for kicks - got it for my birhday in about 1982. I don’t think I’ve worn since the millennium as I had to set the date to 1978 to get it to show the right day. 2017 was not an option, but neither was 1917, so less of a millennium bug and more built in obsolescence...

5206-5080 Lord Matic today