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I’m working on my next budget rebuild. I bought a 70’s Gruen “parts” watch on eBay for $20. I figured it would make a good project if it wasn’t too far gone. The watch itself has character. I got the rear side of the movement assembled this evening. These timegrapher readings are after the initial regulation and running for about three hours. It’ll obviously change before everything is said and done, and it hasn’t been tested in multiple positions yet, but I just found these results pretty stunning. I guess the extra time I took to make sure that the pallet fork stones were spotlessly clean and the escapement lubrication was done properly paid off! I doubt I’ll see trace lines like this very often.

So, got the thing derusted and all put back together, thoroughly coated everything with breakfree which should keep it lubricated and inhibit rust for some time and i'm happy to say i have a perfectly working staking set! People were very correct that yes, the evaporust on the top plate absolutely destroyed any semblance of a finish. I could pretty it up but eh, it's a tool. It's probably a century old and everything else looks great. Next i'll do the same treatment to the punches and start taking inventory. Very happy. I cannot wait to mess with it

Yes, I know about the others. I wrote the book so that people with absolutely no knowledge, or inclination to train, could achieve. 7 to 70 is the age group I aimed for. I did not need to show my skill, just their capability. I have written a book that shows my capability, but this is not what this book is about. This book has been downloaded in excess of 50,000 times for free. If you think it would benefit others. Please take a copy and send it to them. If they wish to pass it on, that's ok. I have the copyright and give permission. If it helps somebody somewhere, then it's worth it. Again. Thank you. Ross You mean I look different now.? so hurt. Ah, must be that the moustache is lighter.

I use copper wire for the feet and a low fusing solder paste. I know you will be tempted to use a soldering iron but I found that a soldering iron produced more dial damage that all other methods I've tried. My current method is to use about 2 inches of copper wire held in a helping hand, then heated with a microtorch about 1 cm above the dial. I sharpen the end of the wire, like the tip of a twist drill. The sharp point transfers less heat to the dial and the joint cleans up much nicer after soldering. Try it on some scrap dials first.

Ok my pro watchmaker friends from another group gave me the go ahead to finally....finally close this thing up. They said the only thing they could think of i could still do is tweak teh regulator pins to fix the crown down deviation but taht it's so risky with these old type pins that they told me not to do it. 2 days on the wrist and it's gained 15 seconds and i haven't even done my final regulation so i'm confident it's finally done. Today the sun finally came out so i could get some proper beauty shots of it. I'm just in love with this dial. The blue is just stunning.

Glad to see this thread. While I often get the name brand quality tool, it is not always in the budget to do so. So, having some good budget options is great. I'll make sure to refer to this thread any time I am looking for a budget option. I do have some feedback on this particular tool below, which I documented in another thread. I purchased this recently via AliExpress. I think basically, if you are looking to save a substantial amount of money on one of these budget tools, be prepared to do some work on them. They are budget because they often don't use the best materials, keep as tight of tolerances, nor have as good of quality control as the name brand tool. But for a hobbyist's use, they may be perfectly serviceable. If they work perfectly out of the box, then fabulous. That was not the case on this tool. The manufacturer used an incorrect grub screw, which caused binding and some minor damage to the shaft. Much like servicing a watch, this tool benefited from a complete tear down, cleaning, reassembly and lubrication. I was able to install the correct size grub screw, and fix a minor alignment issue between the upper and lower parts of the press. For any other budget tool, I'll look to take the same tear down and rebuild approach. I did complain about the issue with this tool to AilExpress and they provided a full refund and I didn't need to send the tool back. So, in the end I have a usable tool for the cost of a grub screw and a bit of my time. I figure that gives me money to apply to a different tool.

the tip that connects to the dial now are machined down to a smaller diameter. When I look closely at the area where they once attached, I can see a minor hole. SO perhaps the idea was much the same. the feet should be inserted into the dial and not just surfaced mounted. This is certainly a learning project for me. Thanks to all for your comments.

No not messed up. Big measurements i think are easier to process in imperial. When i have to start faffing around with fractions of an inch 13/16th then i switch to metric. Conversions can cause accidents Richard. When i tried to convert to being a veggie once, i got very angry and started throwing utensils around my kitchen. Fortunately nobody was injured but it took me a week to get the dog to come back into the house. These days i eat meat plenty of it, it makes me very happy . What does this have to do with watches or units of measurement? Absolutely nothing but I'm a sharing kind of guy. Seeing as this conversation has diversed just a tad, rather than start another thread as this one is pretty much screwed anyway. Just thought i would throw a random question out there as the fairer gender has just being mentioned, thank you rehajm. Where are all the lady watch peeps ? I have only ever seen one pose a question in a year. My missus has a go when she has time but other than that nada.

I'll have you know smoots are still a relevant unit of measure. When I lived in Boston I regularly ran across the Harvard Bridge which has the smoot gradients labeled on the sidewalk. My watch was set to measure the pace of my runs in smoots per fortnight. My wife says she still loves me anyway. I'm lucky that way...

Sorry. I grew up at a time when Imperial units were still used. I still process certain weights and measures in Imperial. Like room dimensions are easier to visualize in feet and inches. And it's easier to understand certain weights in pounds. Really messed up, right? But it's ok, I don't work at NASA.

To the workshop, today I have received this fine old cleaning machine from Germany. The machine is manufactured by VEB Elektromeschanik in Glashütte. The machine is a type of AUII and is fully automated. It is about 30 cm. In diameter and 52 cm. high. Weight approx. 30 kilos. The machine is from 1979 and the gray paint is intact everywhere. In addition to the complete holder and basket on the machine, 8 other curves included. Two of them also with holder. Although DHL and Post Norden have given it a massive transport, everything is all right and it seems like it's going to be! These machines are often sold at ebay.de. It also exists in a version that is not automatic!

I'm catching up, i have two and a chest of drawers full of stock. I just love seeing how other folk arrange their spaces.

Eh, me but they are all covered with watchmaking tools and computer stuff, oh electronics as well. Much clutter, I do need to put up some shelves to make space to work. Tom

Incase anyone else comes across the same pocket watch, it would appear this is a Record 431 movement. If I still had the missing wheels then likely it would say so on one of them. Here's some pics I found of it with some googlefu.

For sure NEW, the more different takes on things we get the more innovative we can be. Tom

YouTube posting of a .pdf? Not watch related, but something for all. I have a book, written by me, that I want to offer for free. Does anyone know if there is facility on YouTube to allow a download a .pdf from one's personal site. Can such a document be uploaded? If so, how. Can someone explain the system to me. Thank you. If anyone wishes to read the book for free I have attached a copy. If the moderators remove the book. Sorry to have caused a problem. No Man Has The Right by Ross Jackson No_Man_Has_The_Right.pdf

I have had no problem when I was a soldier entering a firefight, but I am not brave enough to suggest an approach to dial cleaning. Tom

Superglue is not really very good in tension, designed more for shear applications. Best product I have used in similar situations is Devcon Steel. This is an epoxy with steel granules. It is easy to apply with a needle or pegwood and has a tendency to flow into a nice fillet. Can be filed afterwards if required. I normally leave it a few days in a warm place to fully harden. I think Devcon did other metals as well. Not sure if they are still trading though.

There’s at least one daughter at the famous watch store I frequent in Orlando, Florida here in the states. Kalle has had a few women in his shop. Vulcain has a few in their factory promotional video…but yes, few and fer between…

They are also very inexpensive, $12.95 at Esslinger. It's nice that something so important and useful can be had for very little money for once

Okay, thanks all... Much better name than me calling it a "do-hicky". I actually do have something can be used as a block that is part of an old K&D Staking set that I have, but it is part of the staking set, so I can't desperate it. Sounds like this might be a good something to have eventually. Thanks for cluing in the clueless (me) in my journey to learn all about watchmaking and servicing.

Good read Ross. Love the pictures of you in your younger days. I occasionally still train with some friends. Bit of a mix of martial arts between them originally inc. wing chun but they are fairly focused on Bruce Lee's Jeet Kune Do. I totally agree with the unless you are going to train then keep things simple . For the average person defending themselves, learn to hit hard with just a few strikes that become instictive and then run. When someones life is threatened there are no Queensbury rules. A woman must use whatever she has to inflict as much pain as she can as quickly as she can, she will more than likely only get one shot at it. I think its a great idea to put some extra info out there. Check out master Wong he's a fricking nutter, he has similar philosophies and techniques maybe a bit more involved but great to learn from.

Also called a bench block.

Fortunately for me, I have a lifetime supply of 56b!

Hi NEW. I like Guy use occasionally, I have two one a Maplin own make and a flexishaft one , not a must have tool but useful and handy mostly for circuit boards.

I have this one (Grobet). I use it for polishing crystals, removing rust, adjusting endlinks, etc. I also got a T30 quickchange handpiece from Aliexpress, but I mistakenly ordered the 2.35mm collet version instead of the 3.0mm so I'm using the handpiece that came with the motor. So far for what I use it for I'm happy with it.

I know what you mean. I still have the expandable strap in a zip loc bag... I have not cleaned it and don't plan to. More sentimental than anything. I hear you with keeping some "history" with the watch, but I need to be able to also read what time it is. So, cleaning up a little is needed, but not 100% clean is my desire.

I always like to see some history, the odd scuff that my old grandad might have made doing his gardening. I cleaned out the expandable strap, it was so full of his dna thaf i was tempted to keep it in case we ever get to cloning people. Then i could meet him

Exactly the same method i use Hector. .7mm copper wire covers most sizes of dial feet and this solder paste. The dial i sit on a firm slightly damp sponge. metric is English beginning around the mid 60s. Well mostly metric with a little imperial still hanging around because of us oldies and certain trades that refuse to change. Being an old joiner i still use both.

Richard you were absolutely correct that was not a pin on the hand it was the end of the pivot, it took a bit of getting out but when it came it was obvious as you said the female end is the hand I was convinced it was a pin to fit in the pivot (wrong) thank you so much I owe you a watchweasol a pint thanks again David

Okay, thanks for the information. Good point about using distilled water. I'll see if I can find something similar to those items Cousins has. I refuse to buy from them since they do not have a way to ask them questions and I am still waiting on an order close to a month now. Once I decide to work on the movement, I will likely start to look for a parts movement just in case I need a part. I see one out there right now with a beautiful face, but I'd rather keep my grandfathers face from his watch.

Gonna call you on this Hector! What is it with metric and English in a single sentence?? It is hard enough already!! Please avoid using "smoot" unit of measurement in future posts.

I concur superglue can leave a white film from the vapours. I often get this when i sometimes superglue clear perspex together. Its usually at the time of bonding , once cured it may not produce that effect, i still dont think i would risk using it. Be very carful with the dial,almost anything used can have an effect on a delicate finish. I've removed thin lacquers with just water and a cotton bud. Distilled water or de ionised water should be used. Hard water area water will contain amounts of calcium this may have a very slight abrasive nature. I've tried the softest of materials and different fine makeup sponges that still left scratches visible with fairly low magnification. Just got these from cousins but yet to try them.

Use GS hypo cement applied from the back of the dial. Super glue can outgass over time and may turn the acrylic crystal cloudy. Tom

I came with another idea Anyhow, a long story short; so far I'm very happy without a Barlow lens and without one, everything is at a perfect height. Currently I can't see the cost / benefit doing all kinds of trick just to be able to use a 0.5x Barlow lens. With my current setup the lens doesn't work and that is, as far as I'm concerned, it. However, I'll keep all your gratefully received suggestions in mind, this in case I stumble over another setup option. So, a BIG thank you

My table is the same height, 76cm. I have the head on an articulated arm, which gives a height to the centre of the eyepieces as 42cm. I can see why you have problems at 50cm.

That would be very nice .........

I am looking to get this for jewel inspection https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0BKSLZ27K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A3UR61Y1YXNUGU&psc=1 Tom

I set my table at 75cm high. But I have tiltable microscope mount and I tilt it back about 15 to 20 degrees, so that brings the eyepieces lower and I don't have to peer down the eyepiece. And when working on the movement, the tilt allows longer tools to fit under the lenses. The tilt also prevents the hands from blocking the view. I highly recommend getting a tiltable mount.

Probably true. However, I wouldn't like to miss the light from underneath, such a nice feature!

Ok gotcha thanks for the heads up. I'll tighten and clean it up around there and keep an eye out.

Ok most of this makes sense, but I'm still confused on day/date rings part. If you say the movement is categorized by day/date rings, what am I looking for on the day/date rings to know which movement I have? I think I see it now. I see the day/dates line up if i rotate movement to have crown at 3. If I rotate movement to have crown at 3.8, the day/date wouldn't line up if date window on dial was at 3. Thanks!

Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.

Hi welcome. Good luck with your forey into

Hello and welcome from sunny Leeds.

your question has some minor issues like the above watch isn't that a kinetic? in other words how old is that watch? Not how long have you owned it but how old is the watch? Depending upon where your watches were purchased from they may look brand-new they are brand-new but how long were they sitting in the store before you purchased it. then the typical service intervals recommendation is five years. I don't think it really matters when the watches running or not as the whales will eventually migrate from wherever they are to someplace else no longer doing their job. There is also the problem of the gaskets they don't last forever. So if you have a watch with compromised gaskets and you get exposed to humidity of moisture that may get in the watch. On the other hand if you barely run the watches even with compromised lubrication they might actually go quite a long time as you're not really wearing them out because of lack of lubrication. Unless of course you get moisture in through the lack of gaskets and then rust makes a really nice grinding compound.

Hi if it they were previously serviced using modern oils and were laid in an unused state probably five years. By that time I would reckon a service would be required. Some NOS movements definitely need checking over before use.

Was super busy and had to take a break from this. I opened the thing up, found a long carpet fiber wrapped around the seconds wheel, found like 2 or 3 more in the escapement. Also added a tad bit more oil to the two pivots on the mainplate for the 4th wheel and the other one that needs oil from that side and things are looking much better. That was dial down right after i got it all put back together Amplitude dropped a bit dial up, about 15 degrees which i'm hoping evens out as it settles in overnight. I'm so confident in my oiling at this point if it doesn't i'm pretty damn sure it's just cuz the movement is beat up and might have a bit of excessive endshake here and there. If dial up and dial down are at least 255 and 270 and the delta is ok i'm gonna get it back on the wrist and call it done.

I would be shocked if there even was such a thing.

Make a search agent on this site. Here they comes up for sale from time to time! https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-uhrenreinigungsmaschine/k0