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Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement. No questions are dumb or stupid. We all had to start somewhere.

Setting the bush using a bearing or round punch is usually not required if the bush is fitted in tight, they are friction fitted. the recomended practise if fitting by hand is to broach from the inside of the plate as the broaches are tapered. When the bush is pressed in from the rear the tapertightens down on the bush and it will dnot move when broaching the bearing surface to fit the pivot.

Yes it's an A. Schild/ Standard movement, VWatchie and WWeasol have steered you right on the stem removal. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&AS_1803

I was unable to determine the brand as I was couldn't find the symbol under the balance (AS ST). Perhaps an Adolph Schild of some sort? It's not an ETA but I wouldn't be surprised to learn it is a fine Swiss brand. This is likely the setting lever screw. Unscrew it in in small steps (a quarter turn) and the try to pull the stem. On some movements you may also need to push the setting lever screw down a bit while pulling the stem out. Good luck!

Hello and welcome to the forum. No question is stupid/ dumb its a case of if you do not know please ask. Better that than break/loose something. I have enclosed a couple of documents to get you started. 1612608791_ToolsfortheHobbyist (2) (1).pdf TZIllustratedGlossary.pdf

Hi The movement is an AS/ST caliber number under the balance rim. To remove the stem going by your picture from the crown move left there are two screws the small one nearest the stem is the release screw, back it off 1 1/2 turns this should release the stem.

I have encountered the fault with the escape teeth being bent and worn. I found the best way to identify the badly bent teeth was to make an impression with one half of the escape wheel teeth in some Rodico and using the impression to find the teeth that need adjusting. PS the very last thing I would adjust is the pallets.

Can you poke it out? I made a very fine needle out of an old oiler by polishing it on 3M lapping film. I guess any very fine grit wet and dry emery paper would work as well. I mostly use this oiler needle to poke out peg wood that occasionally gets stuck inside jewel holes when pegging. If it doesn't work to poke the pivot out, you could of course replace the jewel, but that would of course require a set of pretty expensive tools.

Have you tried this put a little power on it and move the crutch with your hand and take note when and where it fails to escape and mark it with a pen or something that doesn't leave a permanent mark, you can then see if it is just one or many. I trust pivots are nice and smooth and no bushing is needed. Do the wheels have end shake and are nice and free with no power on. Pallet faces nice and smooth. As the crutch is a self-put in beat is it loose because that can cause the clock to stop, it is better for it to be tight then loose.

Stored away for future repair. Regards Ross

Try searching here: https://watch-wiki.org/index.php?title=Kategorie:Picture_gallery_movements_Gebrüder_Thiel_GmbH_Ruhla So many movements and variants of movements! Some close matches, but I couldn't find an exact one.

I personally hate when bushings stick out of the plate. I don't mind if they are visible, but they should be flush. Two of my favorite clock brands to work on, Le Castel and Zenith, put bushings in all locations at the factory, nice bronze (Zenith), or bronze or teflon- set in bronze (Le Castel). I just replaced two bushings in a Zenith today, made from beryllium copper, cut to match the originals. Zenith has massive oil sinks and on the arbor side they are cut so a round surface meets the shoulder. Small detail to reduce friction. Nothing wrong with commercial bushings, but yes, trim them to the plate thickness. Some file them intalled, but even if a master of the file it's pretty much 100% sure you'll file the plate a bit. If a mid 20th century German movement, no huge issue, they are rough to begin with. But on a nice movement, it's unacceptable (personally also for crappy movements). If you have a lathe it's quick and easy to adjust a bushing height. Making them is just a little more time... If you don't, find a piece of metal or even plastic the right thickness, drill and stick your bushing in, file to height, and start saving for a lathe!

For 14.4 mm barrel a spring 0.17 - 430 ... 470 (thickness / length) will be ok. not that Frank

I've come across watches that didn't meet the £4.04 posted purchase price, but had free shipping or some such. For those, the stickler in me says "Nein! Es mussen für unter vier Pound vierzig gekauft!" My inner stickler speaks German, and I'm pretty sure very poorly... I interact with native German speakers multiple times a day, but almost never in German. The loosey goosey startup tech culture American in me says the end result is the same or better, so it flies. That side tends to win out because this is all just a game for fun and education and nothing really matters and horological Nihilism. The 404 Club's Grand Presidenté Extraordinaire for Life Until He Gets Bored or Something of Colorado grants that there is precedent in favor of the motion as it abides with the spirit of the law. Also, post photos when it arrives.

I'm not disappointed. Under the circumstances, it is the right decision. I understood it was important to you to find out more about your watch. As John says, we can only answer the questions you ask. You can store the watch safely with the balance removed, if you want to. Put the balance in it's own compartment, with a bit of tissue paper to hold it steady. If you want to reinstall it, make absolutely certainly that the pivots are in their holes before tightening the screw. After each quarter-turn on the screw, check the balance turns freely without wobbling. If it jams up at any point, back off and check again. If at any time you are unsure, stop and come back to us.

Welcome to the forum An Introduction would be in order, we like to know a little history. Try cousins UK Jules Borel and Esslingers, Otto Frei in the states or speedtimerkollection.com in europe who sells second user parts and there is always ebay attachec a document for you. 893919310_03.CasingGuide.pdf

You can get a Chinese diver's watch with a chinese 2824 for €130, VAT and shipping included https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002986459520.html Paying more would be a rip off, even if some fashion brands get away with that. Some people have respect for fine objects and don't adopt the throwing away culture. Have you read our famous 404 topic for example. Plus, they can earn eBay reputation and make another person happy. All good things in my opinion.

That is a great bargain, at the same time my respect for quality makes me shiver when seeing pointless damage to them, and the fact is a relatively small mov.t, with automatic and calendar complication, makes not ideal for a beginner to learn on. I'm not the only one saying this, even out Host Mark Lovick uses a manual wind 6497 in his excellent training: watchfix.com

I realize I'm responding to a comment that is a few months old but some things make me twitch. Isopropanol aka isopropyl alcohol aka 2-propanol has a toxicity in humans only marginally worse than ethanol. Still don't drink it - isopropanol intoxication can hit hard enough to stop your heart. It's why moonshiners sometimes adulterated their products with it - packs a punch in a hurry. But casual exposure is no big deal. Methanol is far more toxic in humans. Don't use regularly without good ventilation and good gloves toxic. And over time it can be sensitizing, which is to say that if you are exposed to it frequently there is a risk that you could have increasingly severe reactions to it. I use hardware store "solvent alcohol" which is up to 50% methanol and the rest ethanol in alcohol burners because it burns clean and isopropyl does not. fwiw, people refer to methanol as "wood alcohol" but in actuality it can be obtained through the fermentation of any sugars with an odd number of carbons, iirc. Have to ask my retired chemistry professor friend again. And at any rate both isopropyl and methyl largely come from oil refineries these days. In some regions you can get "alcohol fuel" that is straight ethanol + a bitterant that makes it undrinkable, and that would be the safest alcohol to use as a cleaning product, but you should always check the safety sheet (formerly called an MSDS in north america, now called an SDS globally). And you might want to wear gloves anyway, because bitrex is the bitterest substance on earth, and it's not a pleasant bitterness. For the rest of it, my chemist friend and i went over a lot of safety sheets for watch cleaning products years ago. L&R 111 is 60-65% naphtha, 15-20% mineral spirit, 5-10% oleic acid, 1-5% Isopropanolamine, 1-5% 2-Propoxyethanol, 1-5% Ammonium Hydroxide. My chemist friend proposed that, aside from some of it forming a soap with some of the ammonia, the oleic acid may leave a single-molecule-thick film on parts that may help protect them from corrosion. For what it's worth he seems to be of the opinion that ammonia is a bit harsh for cleaning brass since the ammonia is literally removing the oxidized copper and zinc from the surface, which is why the resulting surface is so bright. Thiourea is gonna be more gentle but, uh, carcinogenic, and stinky in a different and somewhat more noxious way. So how much does it matter to you if your brass is shiny? Maybe use the ammoniated products sparingly when you need to brighten things up. We postulated maybe going with 3:1 naphtha and mineral spirit with a drop of olive oil. I do note that L&R's rinse products don't contain the oleic acid. Or the ammonia. A whole lot of Zenith's wash and rinse products appear to be straight naphtha. Zenith Hi-Solv is Crest Hi-Solv - a product marketed as a final paint prep solvent for automotive work - in a different can. Auto paint guys are extremely serious about clean surfaces and there's nothing in it that would dissolve shellac. I'm considering seeing if i can get it from a paint store locally. Crest sells it online for $22/qt + $13 ship and $35 seems a bit much for a quart when i can get a gallon for $55 (plus ship) from esslinger. Zenith Hi-Tech is an isoparaffin concoction and i would not be surprised if it turned out to be very similar to one of the "naphtha substitute" products sold in CARB-restricted regions of the USA. If it works, great. Chemist said, isoparaffin solvents work great except when they don't, and a "substitute" for naphtha won't perform like naphtha in all cases. I am pretty sure that the admonition not to use any volatile solvents in ultrasonic baths is related to the whole idea of just filling the tank with solvent. Not just the heat, but the rapid vaporization that would happen. And some people do it anyway and don't die. But solvent in a sealed jar set in water in the ultrasonic is going to be pretty safe, and that's what i have done in the past and expect to do in the future. Final advice from the chemist was that a lot of hardware store solvents and fuels may contain waxes and other heavier oils and greases that may not be in the commercial watch and clock cleaners. In particular, mineral spirit often has some waxes in solution. To get rid of those, put the solvent in your freezer for a few hours. The heavy stuff will plate out and most of it will stick to the walls of the container. What doesn't, you can take care of by running the solvent through a paper coffee filter while still freezing cold. You could theoretically use this method to recycle spent non-ammoniated wash solution into, well, I guess you probably still wouldn't want to use it to wash parts, and you could use it as bbq lighter fluid without purifying it. You could use it to clean tools? *shrug*