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I'm not all that familiar with the history of Ingersoll, but in my mind they immediately get flushed into the "ignore" pile because they seem to universally be unjeweled pin levers. That's fully jeweled though, and likely the nicest Ingersoll I've seen (again though, I mostly see the name and move on). From that photo, it looks like the movement is very tidy and businesslike. The balance looks a bit chintzy, but aside from that it's got a charm to it...

Sorry about that/you're welcome. I started out answering the part about the 10% sale, but accidentally linked to the part number breakdown post, then saw the thing about the part number quagmire, and things devolved. We started potty training our 2 year old this weekend, and it's been a long day. 15% comes up from time to time, check out the Wayback Machine on obvious time periods, and you'll be able to figure when to wait for. Re: 20x eyepieces, they came in handy this past week in a non-child way. I listen to a lot of vinyl, and we had a record that was skipping. I recalled reading a few years back that it might be possible to repair a skipping record. Tons of caveats; You have to know what you're doing, be super careful, guess right, etc. I figured I could probably eliminate a lot of the guesswork if I could see it. I saw what was likely my skipping scratch, and got up on it with the microscope, but nothing... I turned the album around on the offending track a while, and then I found the problem... A dust mote wasn't actually a dust mote, but some hard bit of ash or something that melted into a groove, and was really stuck in there! I grabbed my 0.5mm watchmaking screwdriver, dropped it in the groove like a needle, and popped that hard little thing out! No more skip! Excellent tool!

I bought some clocks stuff and watches from a guy in San Antonio. He gave me a bunch of stuff as well. This Vigor crystal lift was one thing. The rubber tension ring and worn out and the jaws would not expand. Today, I printed a replacement using TPU filament. Works nice now.

Today's great deals Sometimes we all come across some equipment for the workshop which can be a really good offer. But sometimes we already have it, or there may be plenty for sale. Therefore, share a great deal in this thread. In this way we reach out to all parts of the world and can help each other.

I think they made in- house movements at first or when in switzerland, once head quarters were moved to London, the company expanded fast so started sourcing movements from others manufacturers, think Longines is now in swatch group. not sure though, but its a good make, never had problem with my watch. Regs

It was the regulator pins. They were too short. Making the hairspring slip out from between them and pop back in place hence the weird results. I luckily had a spare regulator that worked perfectly in this movement.

That is a Chinese mov.t as Kienzle stepped making decades ago, if you post its size and a picture of the upper side it may be possible to identify it and with some luck get a stem, otherwise a new mov.t is cheap anyway.

How far apart is " sporatic" perhaps your observation on TG hadn't been long enough to see a period of occurance. I make a habbit of checking how the movement runs on TG before and after installing the dial and hands. Regs

It definitely needs a service from someone who knows what they are doing. As Melt points out, the balance wheel is not true and needs to be straightened or replaced. The case and pushers will need cleaning and lubricating, as will the movement. The cause of the stuck date wheel will become clear when the movement is stripped. Other than that, it looks to be in good condition with a lot of potential. I would concentrate on getting a competent service. I don't see any need to swap the entire movement.

Richt on Andy. because they are the lower end of the market like the Timex a lot of people dismiss them (watch Snobbery) there are exaples of them like times being abused and still running. Thery were similar to the smiths enpire and others of that era, built for the working man at a price they could afford as a daily wear. Pin lever watches had a job to do and did it well. Me I like them.

Good work on getting the 9154 humming AND working again....shout out to Bulova for creating the technology, right? Someone suggested the Matsys System without mentioning that an account is needed. This is all I found: Regards, J

That balance wheel is distorted in the video. Look at that up and down oscillation. How was the time keeping? If the pushers slide without the movement in and the gaskets are not hard then the movement needs a service. Also make sure there is no crud inside the pushers or around the case holes they sit in.

I oil as you describe. I'm careful when using D5 on the centre wheel pinion not to get any down the centre - don't want a thick oil slowing the sweep seconds. I put very small amounts of 9010 on the seconds pinion as shown:

Yes. I find the Jules Borel database very useful : http://cgi.julesborel.com/?_ga=2.136882992.1241287072.1645351822-2123014940.1645351822 e.g. for ETA 9164 date jumper

The Bestfit catalogue has been doing this forever and they appear to have an online version here although how good it is I have no idea. There is always the Jules Borel database too which I use a lot.

I am not quite sure been a while. It was quite a lot. I had 30 motherboards about 60 AMD cpu's and quite a bit of memory bars around 200 or so.

One of the unfortunate problems and watch repair is not every single watch has a technical sheet. Then even if you did find a technical sheet the silly watch companies think that people repairing their watches probably know how to do everything and it probably won't explain how to oil things for instance because you're supposed already know that. Then the D5 will work fine or one of the HP oils the synthetic version. Then I'm not a big fan of 9010 I would prefer 9020 for the sweep second. Then yes you can oil on the shaft where it enters its bearing inside the tube that because you can't oil from the top.

A few more glamour shots with all the accessories (jars, lids, baffling, stars, etc.). I also figured out why switches come with two mounting nuts....I didn't realize it was to adjust how much of the switch sticks out of the top, DUH, so I fixed that as well and now the switches don't stick out so much and are more level and look nicer. I also tried and tried to redo the manufacturer's tag on the motor housing but the lettering hardly sticks out so no matter what type of sandpaper or Scotch Brite I used, it would always take off additional material, so I left it as is and figures it shows the machine's age and battle scars so to speak. The red cover over the light had A LOT of pitting so I sanded them all out and that's why it is now flat, I'll keep my eye out if there is ever one for sale or anyone has one from a donor machine. Have a great weekend everyone and please stay safe.

Greetings everyone, hope all is well. Well, it's done. I don't call this a full restoration due to lack of skills and still learning techniques, etc. so we will call this a half or semi-restoration. Everything works perfect and is SO MUCH quieter than it was when I originally got it. There are a few things I did that couldn't stay true to the original.... The power cord strain relief connector is homemade with a rubber grommet and two zip ties. I know they make them for this but will just have to keep looking and will be easy to switch out in the future since I used quick discomments (spade connectors) for most of the connections to assist with future maintenance if needed. For the Forward and Reverse switch, I elected to go with the one that has 3 positions or ON OFF ON instead of the original design that has just two positions. I figured this would be another good safety measure to have so I can ensure everything is completely off when plugged in. I did elect to keep the ceramic\concrete resistor that is for the light, just because it was original, the company Hamilton for Hamilton Beach is on the resistor as well as it was still in spec. These were the only two connection points I soldered due to the heavy gauge wire from these. I think the label for the control panel turned out ok. I put a piece of mylar over the print to help protect it as I printed the sticker clear labels from my laser printer. I originally was going to go to Office Depot, but the last time, their prints also had dots here and there where the toner missed. Compared to how it was, I think it's an improvement and I wasn't going for museum quality as I plan on using this. Well I think that just about does it for me, I know the paint job is very amateurish and that will be the LAST time I use spray lacquer over spray paint, will save lacquer for wood products. Hope my journey helps someone in the future as everyone here has helped me out so much. Enjoy the before and after pics. Take care and stay safe.

No 4, tweezers. Gives you excellent control over the workpiece. If you don't drop it and use it for hairspring only، it will last a lifetime. I drop the spring on a white sheet of paper to see details in better contrast. Good luck

When it comes to hairspring work you shouldn't expect the best outcome working with poor quality tweezers. You should stop using this tweezers before you get used to it, purchase good quality dumont for hairspring work, to see the difference and discover farther limit of your dexterity and stay with one size/ type twèezers. Regards

Something I've encountered before in other watches reminded me to ask this. You wrote "The small second hand is so close to the dial that I definitely need to right gear to get it off." And earlier you wrote "The balance does rotate when moved and the watch ticks for about 10 seconds and then stops." I have encountered watches with sub-seconds hands that were rammed on so tightly that they inhibited the watch's ability to run somewhat. See how the watch behaves after you've raised the seconds hand to just above the dial. A tiny bit of clearance may make a difference. (You'll still need to clean it anyway, of course, but I wonder if it could run after getting some clearance with that hand.)