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Ah yes Magnetism can be a watchmakers friend ,in more ways than one. Picking up lost parts and to get to work........

I haven't done one of these for a while..... My latest acquisition with a Record 107 movement, and on my first attempt at making a strap (no apologies for the dodgy stitching). Came in as a non-runner, turned out to be a broken M/S so easily sorted. I was tempted to have a go at re-plating the case but I think it carries off the brassing rather well.

what makes you think it's a satellite signal? usually the timepieces are designed to synchronize to satellites I believe the GPS satellites but I could be wrong or ground-based transmitter's that usually are transmitting low frequencies. I saw I think on YouTube where somebody was too far away from the low frequency transmitter so he made his own transmitter. then he could have his radio control clocks around the house and they would work. I found you a link and I swiped an image off the website. Notice the watch dial has a map of the world with letters and numbers? The letters correspond to the station designation of the various transmitters. The numbers correspond to the frequency they are transmitting on. Simplistically this means that this particular watch you can change to whichever transmitter is closest to you. Unfortunately it's not going to help you at all if you live in Iran as it looks like you're way too far away from everybody. I remember many years ago when my father was alive he purchased one of the radio control clock's. We ended up with several of them before they all went back. None of them would stay on time because we were too far away from the transmitter in Fort Collins Colorado and it didn't have enough power. Many years later they upped the power so now the radio controlled digital clock I have seems to work. Although I don't have any other radio control clock to compare it to see if they agree so I just assumed that it's on time. https://www.ablogtowatch.com/junghans-meister-mega-radio-controlled-watch/

the problem is too many variables if the posting person doesn't tell us to give us a picture of what exactly they're talking about. which is why we usually ask for a picture it can answer a lot of questions sometimes. yes guessing is fun. We actually do a lot of guessing on this discussion group if somebody doesn't give us a proper description. I don't think most people are aware of just how many watches have been made and how many brands how many types how many well basically they're just a heck of a lot of watches out there and it's a problem if we don't get a good description. Like for instance guessing that it's a satellite watch what if it's not? Or is it analog or digital or perhaps both quartz? Or some quartz watches have separate stepping motors for all the different features. Or it could be a perpetual calendar setting those can be interesting. Or somebody forgot to do a reset if it's a complicated quartz watch. Or a really common problem on solar watches are there not charged up. Contrary to popular belief and the people who sell you the watch the battery in there doesn't last forever and sometimes it needs to be changed. In addition analog quartz watches don't last forever and they either need to be serviced or typically replaced because they usually cheap enough just to replace the entire movement if you're having a problem. another problem with a quartz or in a watch for that matter is how old is it? In other words you just purchased it from wherever but how long has it been sitting in their and how long was it sitting in the warehouse before it went to wherever you purchased it from. Sometimes brand-new watches may not actually be brand-new watches.

I got this on ebay awhile back knowing that the case was not authentic. Finally snagged an authentic case and transferred the movement into it. The stem was too short for the authentic case, so I had to cut a new one. Fortunately, I had bought a bunch of NOS stems for this movement, so I had one ready to install. One thing I have noticed before on these A17/11 watches is that the movement can wobble around in the case. Not sure why. Even with case back screws, they still wobble a bit. My solution was to design and print a spacer. Once installed...no more wobble.

Hi nd welcome to the forum. We need to see some pictures of the movement, what the movemnt make is and the caliber number. What is probably at fault is either the detent or the detent spring broken allowing the wheel to slip. Either way its got to come out of the case and dial and hands removed to expose the calendar/date complications.

Aluminium is quite reactive in some situations. In combination with acids or alkalis, I suspect it may cause some interesting side reactions with the zinc or other metals in brass or bronzes. This can be turned to your advantage if you want to clean silver, as a solution of baking soda coupled with some aluminium foil will remove tarnish. I haven't tried this on silvered dials, as there may be some other effects, but I may add it to my list of experiments.

I acquired a set of mainspring winders and wanted to practice removing and then replacing the mainspring in a scrap movement. Popping the lid on the barrel did not go well as the mainspring... sprung. See a video of how I opened it here. So, a couple of questions. 1. I had the barrel on a solid piece of plastic while pressing down on the teeth. Should the arbor be on something flat and hard like an anvil, or should the arbor be in a hole on the anvil? 2. Should I have pressed down with only one finger while using another finger to stabilize the lid of the barrel so it doesn't pop off?

It looks like it's a screw-down type. If you don't have the correct 12-sided tool (and lets face it, who does?), you can try one of those grippy case-opener balls, or if it won't budge, superglue a nut to the back.

I would do a full disassembly and clean peg out the holes etc just watch out for the cuckoo arm and lock otherwise its straight forward. Make sure to keep the bellows wires seperate they are different lengths.

Hi you could glue as OH says but if there is enough clearance strenghten it with a thin brass washer glued/rivited to the side of the wheel .

Be careful with aluminium and ammoniated fluids - I had an issue once when cleaning clock parts in an aluminium tray and it left deposits on some of the parts. Almost like electrolysis.

One of the things that was bothering me with this discussion is the engraving looks good. Even though I just said the engraving looks good the rest of it looks like total crap. It absolutely positively would've never of left Rolex looking like this. not only that anybody who looked at this would reject it. I looked up the term graymarket supposedly it it's legit new items sold at a big discount for variety reasons usually don't have a warranty. But watches are interesting there sealed up how do you know it's legit? How do you know if it has the right movement. Then if you go to vintage they start mixing and matching bits and pieces to give you a watch that's probably basically totally crap. Or refinishing watches to look like new some things are too good to be true for a reason. Because the engraving looks good I was curious I emailed a friend the photographs. He's taken classes given by Rolex now retired and that included the classes on spotting counterfeit Rolex watches. I'm pasting his answer below in any case returning the watch was a good thing. "this looks like an example of a mediocre case refinish on a reconditioned watch, not new product. Perhaps the original crystal was smashed which would have scratched up the dial ring and top of the crystal seat. If a coarse grit was used to refinish the case it would end up looking like this. The white stuff looks like lint from the cloth/paper towel used to clean it off. The engraving itself doesn't look that bad.I would vote for bad refinish, rather than counterfeit."

Absolutely not. It has to be a copy.

Hi there, the introduction of the engraved rehaut was actually an action taken to make it more difficult for counterfeit watches to be instantly recognized, as this type of engraving on the Rolex watch is extremely precise and quite difficult to do. Of course, this worked in the beginning, but counterfeiters soon caught on. They have a hard time reaching the same level of perfection in the engraving as Rolex has, but today, it is still common to see fake watches have engraved rehauts.Glad you got your money back

Did you purchase this is a new watch? Then Rolex would've never of let this leave the factory looking like this.

The extra hundredth thing is a thing with pretty much every jeweling tool I've used, including Seitz, Favorite, Chatons SA, and Horia. I tend to use the lever types, but Horia screw types are similar. Think of the stack up of parts- the stump, the watch plate, the jewel, the pusher, the interface of pusher to spindle, then finally the micrometric screw. A micron or two of slop or mushiness here, another there, that it's typically only a hundredth is pretty fantastic. As for orienting the jewel, if it's truly symmetric put it however you want. If there is an oil sink (however slight), that goes opposite the wheel.

Easy to make seals on those lids. A) clean and degrease lid and lip on jar. Buy gasket making gel in tube at car spares shop. C) fill channel under lid and smooth over with wet finger D) apply very light layer of vaseline to mating surface of jar E) Place lid on jar an Lightly push down to make a channel in gasket gel but not enough to to squish it all out. F) leave overnight to set. Sent from my Honor 5c

As I understand solar powered watches they have a battery that is charged by light. Thus they would be quartz movements. If it is also a watch that receives signals from a satellite then my guess is that it changes when the satellite sends the time signal, which also changes the date at the end of the month. I would encourage you to reset your watch, using the instructions as indicated, to see if this is just a setting problem. If that doesn't work read the instructions about setting the satellite receiver in the watch. It may be possible the fix lies somewhere in the resetting and or the reception of the signal. But to me it seems more likely a reset from the beginning by the book will fix the problem. If all fails call the mfg or google the problem and find out what others have experienced and how they handled it. There is a fix.....