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I have a tool that moves the roller table in very precise increments for fine tuning the beat error. I only used it on one caliber I used to do for a small manufacturer, it's not terribly practical for everyday use. It has a table with a collet in the center that clamps on the roller table, then a finger clamp that holds the balance rim. The table turns around the collet, with index marks so you know how far you went. You can very easily turn the roller table a fraction of a degree, and then go back exactly the same if you want. For every day work, from the smallest ladies movements to marine chonometer, I set the balance with the cock on a bench block so the roller table is in a hole, balance on the block. Lift up the cock and move it over- not flipping it, just moving laterally, until I can see the slot in the hairspring collet, get in there and adjust (for tiny watches this is usually with an oiler, larger, a small screwdriver). Go back in the watch and check on the machine. If you have no idea which way to move, like when you are very close and the fork looks perfectly centered, you can check like this: let off all power, hold the balance rim, then nudge the center wheel so an escape tooth contact a pallet stone. See where it contacts. Rotate balance so an escape tooth can contact the other pallet stone, observe. This is with zero power on the watch so the balance really truly finds its neutral position. If, for example, a tooth hits the front part of the entry stone, and the last part of the exit stone, you can rotate the balance to see which way it needs to go (here the balance need to turn counter-clockwise from its rest state, so the hairspring needs to go clockwise).

Thanks all for the help! Great suggestions. Turns out I have an old set of feeler gauges that I could use for this. Will post the outcome and let everyone know how it goes.

@VWatchie the mass of the impulse jewel may be offset by the cut out, but if it is it's likely more by accident than by design. The balance wheel is poised (either static or dynamic poising) with the roller table in-situ. Unless the roller table it's self has been poised in isolation, the orientation of the roller table will be accounted for when the balance wheel/roller table assembly is poised as a unit. If you then change the orientation of the roller table relative to the balance wheel, you will then upset the poise of the assembly.

VWatchie- yes, a block like that or any that will allow setting the roller table into a hole. I have a larger square one that is a little more stable. I do the adjustment under the microscope, which is pretty essential as the adjustment is usually very very small. I hold a balance arm of the rim with tweezers while moving the collet. Shifting the roller table a very small amount for final beat error correction isn't enough to affect the poise. If you restaff and didn't mark the sense for the roller table, and get it 180 degrees out, you will definitely see an error! And if you move it more than a couple of degrees you really should adjust at the collet. Of course it is absolutely imperative to not throw the hairspring out of true at the collet in either the round or flat- this will have a major effect on the timing.

Wow! So, rotating the roller table isn't unheard of and there's even a tool that can do it. If today had been April 1st I wouldn't have believe you! Just amazing! Thanks for showing us! The pedagogic quality of this paragraph is world-class. You should be writing a book. The only other method I've seen is putting the cock on a balance tack, but when I tried, it felt so unsafe that I decided not to risk it but instead live with the beat error. I just could't get enough leverage with the screwdriver blade (meticulously dressed for the occasion), while everything was moving around. Using the balance tack, keeping the balance wheel steady while manipulating the collet probably takes a lot, a lot of practice (and guts). The next time I will definitely try your method. Anyway, just to make sure: Again, the stuff of a book by @nickelsilver everyone would want to have! I note that nowhere in your post do you imply that adjusting the beat error by shifting the roller requires re-poising the balance. That's very interesting too. So, would you say that shifting the roller has a negligible effect on the poise?

Hi VWatchie, sorry for late response. No I haven't "verified" it. The thing is that , when a balance complete is disturbed you have lost the perfect dynamic poise it left the production line with and in case of fix stud holder created some beat error too. In case of undisturbed balance, moving the hairspring through stud hole is my preferred method. Regs

Can you eliminate the jump mech on this caliber? To see if the base movement runs steady. I am sure that was your own first instinct, but you think a strong mainspring would make it over power any extra load that jump mech adds.

Together with the moving piece, which also has an angle, pretty much the same, they will hold the watch in place when turned upside down, for DD position.

Yes, it's made from a piece of stainless steel wire. I copied it from a photo I saw of a vintage tool for adjusting beat error.

That's a great video, learned a couple of things about turning bushings. I'm going to try the undercut then drill method.

This what I used to adjust the collets on clocks and pocket watches. It's probably too big for a ladies watch. I don't remember where I learnt this from I slip the tool between the hairspring and balance cock and insert the sharp tooth of the tool into the split of the collet. Then I can turn the collet in whatever direction I choose.

I think we have become overly OCD about beat error. Before the invention of timegraphers, what did watchmakers do? They just line up the balance jewel with the pallet fork by sight and that was it. I think the error could be out by 1.0ms.

Bulova Seaking Automatic from 1975 I believe. Just restored and serviced this for my next door neighbour. It's 'on test' for the next day. He told me he got it for his tenth wedding anniversary and has been in a drawer for 25 years or so. Going to give it back to him tomorrow evening. I hope he will be pleased to wear it again.

For others looking at this thread: https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/hublot-ultra-thin-classic-fusion-authenticity.5342158/ I think our forum has been slightly more constructive/polite. But we all genuinely hope Rishah you haven't been duped.

Oh yes! Here are some more: https://www.enstock2e.top/products.aspx?cname=hublot+classic+fusion+ultra+thin+skeleton Picture of the back of one too from this page. Very convincing for $82. The fact the OP didn't post a link to the selling site; that the obvious question on selling price has been ignored; and there are clearly fakes out there all screams alarm bells. @Rishah- did you get your watch? how much was it? is it $???? well spent? is it ticking nicely along at 28,800bph etc?

I would ask the same question in luxury watch forums. Personally I haven't even actually seen a genuine hublot fusion in person. Regs

The obvious question is ... how much are you buying this for?! This is a limited edition and expensive watch. A genuine one is going to set you back about $14,000 : https://www.chrono24.com/hublot/classic-fusion-classico-titanium-ultra-thin-skeleton-42mm-new--id7520197.htm Or you can get a very convincing fake for $149 : http://www.replicawatchreport.co/hublot-classic-fusion-classico-ultra-thin-skeleton-titanium-545-nx-0170-lr What end of this spectrum are you? And if you can afford, say, $9,000 because that's a second hand price from your seller would you really be handing that amount of money over if you were unsure? If it seems too good to be true..

Winding wheel is missing a few teeth. Is the seller selling you this as genuine? Does he accept return?

I sent a question to CousinsUK! If it already is written here I apologise. The conversation below, I only removed full names! My letter! Hey iam as i supposed one of many Swedish costumer, and the Brexit thing made it bad with our postage service Post Nord! They have long handling time and a fee of about 7€. So small orders be too expensive! So my question is are you in IOSS? Or going to be? I think it’s made it easier! Always have good service and much need of your shop to do my hobbie! Best regards// Ola Answer! Dear Mr Ola , Thank you for contacting our management team. IOSS is for B2C (business to consumer) shipping. As Cousins is a business to business trade wholesale supplier, goods shall continue to be delivered to our customers, with local taxes and duties the responsibility of the recipient. Kind regards, Cousins Management Team

Obviously I've no inside in how much we, as hobbyist costumers, are contributing to CousinsUK revenue? It may well be that they can easily afford to loose "the little man" and the costumers-trade with the EU? If that's the case, that seems to be a very luxury position. Good for them, very bad for us. It seems that I have to wish CousinsUK all the best........

Thanks for forwarding CousinsUK reply Unclear to me is what happens to orders under the €150 ? Yes, one has to pay VAT and no import-duties. But I also read somewhere that if the VAT was paid (which would be under the IOSS sytem, B2C, collected by CousinsUK) the parcel would get a code, indicating that the VAT of the destination country has been paid. The parcel would than sail through the customs without the interference of the Postal organizations. As it stands now, at least here in Denmark, if the VAT is not paid, the Post will intercept the parcel and will collect the VAT for the customs. For that "service", or handling-fee, they will charge the recipient 160 DKK = £ 18.4 or €21.50 I don't have a problem with paying the Danish VAT via the IOSS to CousinsUK, but it's the postal-service handling-fee which is the problem. As I understood the IOSS system should take care of that and I can't filter this out of the CousinsUK reply. Neither can I filter out if CousinsUK has actually registered themselves to the IOSS or will do so in the (near) future? To be honest, at the moment I can't see a postal-service competing with the Danish post and waiting for that to happen could be a long wait.

SPRINGS ! I've been servicing watches since 1968 when my father died and I ineherited his tools I used to watch him and have a go on scrap movements. Return bar springs click springs especially the U shaped ones e used to fill me with dread as the always want go flying round the room till I discovered the cotton trick I tie a piece of cotton about 1.5 foot round the bottom of the U ( a loose not ) then put the damn thing in position. If it flys out I've still got it. Put the plate or what ever holds it looslely in position then fish the cotton out tighten up there you go over the years this must have saved me 100s of hours if not1000s. S