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I have no recollection of buying it, but I must have picked it up a watch fair in Birmingham for 5 or 10 pounds. It winds a bit and runs a tiny bit. Once I finish the watch course then I will attempt to get this watch working. I really like the styling so will attempt to fix it, but I guess it was cheap at the fair for a reason... probably unrepairable!

Was repairing a Waltham S0 pocket watch and it would all of the sudden stop. Cleaned and reassembled and thought I had it solved. Great amplitude but “screech” it stopped. After looking at us with a stereo microscope, turned out the the Pallet Fort darr was rubbing against the roller table rim. Odd problem but fixed it.

If you play records and your needle gets dirty. Just dip your tone arm down on a piece of rodico and it will pull the dirt off.

Hello and welcome to the forum enjoy

Welcome to the forum.

I want to say I did not think of this. I read about it on this forum. If you have a smart phone with slow motion video, you can video the balance for 10 seconds or so and then replay it at slow speed. This will allow you to see a more accurate view of amplitude.

No firm answer ... but if you're accepting ideas...! ? The BFG 866 can apparently have two versions of the fourth wheel (for second hand). This is part number 220 ... or 220/1. Could it be that 2200 is to indicate a particular version? And then GK a German acronym that makes sense in this version context?

More than likely it just needs cleaned and serviced. I've seen quite a number of good looking watches get discarded, simply because the owner is not willing to pay to get them serviced.

Very nice job!!

Here's mine with lots of drawers. I make it a rule to not have anything useless cluttering the work surface and store unused tools/consumables in drawers.

I quite like LCD watches. I just love the styling on this one.

LCD watches are cool. my only problem is I need glasses to read them !

They have this movement at esslinger. $14.95

I got one from Cousins thanks VWatchie. I fell hook line and sinker for the slipped yoke over the sliding pinion on setting the movement back in the case. I took it out went in dial side to rectify. Put it right and somehow lost / misplaced the the setting wheel. I have ordered a new one from Cousins. Today I discovered Mark Lovichs video on how to rectify on the rotor side of the movement. If only I had checked first! The movement is fully serviced and now waiting for the new setting wheel. The best bit is where Mark tells his secret how to avoid slipping the yoke in the first place. PULL THE CROWN AND STEM OUT TO THE SETTING POSITION FIRST BEFORE REMOVING SAID CROWN AND STEM! If only I had watched the video first I wouldn't have lost the setting wheel and spent a good 2 hours looking for it in vain. I will remember this forever. Many thanks to Mark Lovich for his informative videos.

Hi! From your video, it appears as if the escape wheel tooth is not locking into the entry stone. The exit stone appears to lock appropriately. Several things to consider. Broken or chipped entry pallet stone. Loose entry pallet stone. Malpositioned entry pallet stone (not making contact with the escape wheel teeth in the locking phase). Entry lever/arm of the pallet fork is bent. Too much endshake in the escape wheel (on the video it appears as if the escape wheel has a significant upwards vertical shift when spinning). I do have some other questions... The movement seems significantly tarnished. Is this an original NH35, or a clone? Did this happen all of a sudden, or was the watch functioning properly beforehand? Did it happen before or after disassembly? In regards to your question about buying a new movement. I would recommend you do, especially considering that the NH35 is a relatively inexpensive movement. Best of luck! Guido

This fell to the way side... but here’s the current “state of the art” on my bench... the new work mat is draped over the chair because I have too many watches on the bench to make the swap now. Once they are secured I’ll tear it apart.

Vigor is the popular jeweler's epoxy but I think it cures too fast. I would use West System, standard cure, but that's not practical for a typical watchmaker. You need to buy large (at least a quart, possibly pint) quantities of the resin and hardener, as it is for building boats. I have some left over from guitar a cue making. Honestly any ~1 hour cure epoxy from Home Depot or wherever will be more than strong enough, if the prep is good.

I was able to get it open Pulling off the crystal, there was a second bezel around the inside which needed to be removed. Once it was gone, there was a small lever visible between the dial and the case which needed to be moved. This released the stem. Once it was gone, the movement came out easily. I don't have a great camera for close up photos, so i can't easily show the location of the lever. But, if you are looking down on the dial, it will be at about 4:30 when it is locked. A small screwdriver will allow you to side it up towards the stem, unlocking the movement.

The glue-on feet are fine; Burgeon has them for reasonable money (which is unusual for them). No matter what, make sure the area of repair on the back of the dial is absolutely clean (sand it to clean and roughen, and then remove all traced of sanding debris) and also sand the flat top of the replacement foot. This also helps to reduce the height of the foot. And, once the new foot is on the main plate, you can see if the large flat top is interfering with any day or date changing components, and trim/sand/clean as needed to clear. I think you will have enough height for the flat tops, since there is a date spacer ring (or something) going on there I suspect. Use slow curing epoxy- mount the new feet into the movement (or on the bare plate if you are scared, but that may not help), apply a tiny dot of epoxy with an oiler, set the dial and align the day and date displays, as well as the center hole, before your epoxy cures. A small weight which allows you to see the dial is not moving (such as inverted shot glass) keeps pressure on until the epoxy cures. ALWAYS double the "label" cure time. One hour cure? Give it at least two... Good luck.

Sounds about right.Actually all that applies to most things under my kitchen sink..Its the same stuff we all fill our b..... cars up with but Ive never read all that printed on the pumps. Hope we get out of the EU before the Eurocrats insist on E10 Ethanol petrol which is a solvent and destroys everything in sight. An oil industry chemist told me once that unleaded petrol is far more harmful than the old leaded four star