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Xilikon

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  1. That's a great setup for a hobbyist watchmaker. I don't mind swapping fluid containers for each step and it seems to be simple enough to build myself. remain to determine which parts to buy.
  2. I had ordered a Omega 960 (based on 6497) and when I got it, the hour wheel is there but they don't have dial screws. I had to source some Omega screws for a lot of dough I contacted the seller but he said he doesn't know at all and just sell NOS movements. Luckily, many parts can be found using 6497 as keyword and they are interchargeable.
  3. This is certainly the dial feets which snapped off after a shock.
  4. Replate-It is great but it depends from where you ship. For me, it's a perfect place as it's 2h from here by car. I'm sure there are similar ones in europe.
  5. I have a balance tack but never thought about using pith wood to support the lower pivot, great idea!
  6. Not really a tech sheet but I do have a parts list. By the marking in the back, last servicing is 22-10-86 and I guess the watchmaker did not do a 100% good job with this one given a few modifications (the dial has 2 holes for the feets when originally, there should have none). 2509_AS 1920.pdf
  7. Actually, it's based on AS 1920 as it is a high beat movement with 36000 bps. I finally managed to decase it... The movement ring was held by 'rubber' pieces all around (that's why there is a slot on the movement ring to insert those pieces) but being dried and struck, the only way is to try to pry the ring out of the case and working around until the pieces get loose enough to be removable. It is like a kind of lateral shock protection. The split stem seems not original to this watch because it is definitively not front-loading so I will replace it with a normal stem as part of t
  8. After waiting for months for the watchmaker to return me (I requested the return as he took too long to bother looking at mine since last summer), I finally got it back so I proceed to start disassembling but I got stumped a bit with that watch when it come to removing the movement. I removed the back which is screwed and removed the antimagnetic shield, I see the movement fine so I removed the two screws holding it to the movement ring. However, the ring is firmly set in the case with what seems like hard rubber pieces between the groove (look like this <o>). I figured out it might b
  9. I have those but it's just for handling the hands.
  10. Just get the product id and google it, you will find stores selling and the prices.
  11. Thanks for the Bestfit catalogue link, I was looking for that for a while when I read people mentioning them to identify movements and parts.
  12. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07YCLCJQ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  13. Yes, it depends on everyone's needs and comfort. I did those before : 1- Ordered 4x and 10x from Aliexpress. Very cheap, magnification of 10x feel like 5x and glass has some staining on the reflective coating. 2- Ordered an 4x aluminium and 10x H1 directly from Asco. They are great compared to the cheap ones but still struggling to use it comfortably with loupe holder. 3- While ordering a bunch of tools and supplies at a canadian material house, I stumbled on clip-on loupes which isn't expensive so I ordered a 4x clip-on. I also bought a 3.5x reading glasses at a drugstore. This
  14. There is one case I noticed that and it is on a russian Vostok 2234SU movement. The barrel have a notch on the lid and barrel and it's to fit the T shaped mainspring end to lock it. I also push it on the anvil to pop it off instead of prying with the screwdriver anyway.
  15. Yes, I prefer to cover everything as dust is a problem when reassembling movements. That's partly why I aim to keep my bench very clean so it's easy to dust off. More clutter mean more place for dust to settle and risk flying into the movement as we know even a single speck of dust can mean trouble.
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