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Hi Chaps just picked up this as a repair job, Not a restoration client just wants all the bruises amd marks leaving as its its life story. This clock has been well traveled and as such and its advanced years isnt too bad. Got some research to do then get cracking

I received this Vostok 24hr manual wind through the post yesterday, I quite like it even though it's strange to read the hour off! It's new old stock, 44mm, Screw down crown and was only £25 posted!! John

Hi Guys for all you chaps who work on seiko movements you may find this information usefull Cheers Servicing_Guide.pdf

I have a Promaster coming tomorrow!! Same as this but not this actual watch (Borrowed the pic from the net!!) John

Hi there, I just thought I'd show you this rare afrobbins roller table remover. It's pretty cool you can turn the dial at the front to select the size you need then slide the pin into position which has a hole for the pivot to fit, then slowly turn the back dial and the locking pin will slide along a tapered section of the dial and push the roller table of the balance staff.

Wow, thanks a lot for the tech sheet, I was looking for something like that online. I’ll source some naphtha, and look into the oils you recommend, thanks for that too. I realize this isn’t exactly a high end time piece, but still a nice piece to play with and practice on. Rob

So far as I have heard, strap widths come in series of odd numbers ,16 ,18, 20 so on. But most watches manufacturers if not all, produce cases with lugs in series of even numbers 17,19,21 . Seems there is a conflict of interest between the two groups. Seems like watch manufacturers have reserved the right to produce correct sizes for their products. If that is true and you produce what customers needs ( size series by even numbers) you may receive a polite invitation by virtue of which you are " summoned " to a court of law where law suits are filed against you. If my story is untrue and you intend industrial scale production, I guranty you success going with the even number widths only. Good luck.

I posted this Luch in the "Watch of Today" thread earlier today, but what perhaps doesn't come across is the fact that there is actually quite a pleasing texture to the dial. When I spotted it in a pile of junk in the job lots on ebay, I assumed the dial would be a simple flat white one, like some of the Sekonda USSR era watches I have, but the appearance of this one is subtly different. I bought this as much for for the USSR era quartz movement I hoped would be inside (as indeed it was) as I did for the interesting "сделано в CCCP" dial. The mat finish has a slightly silvery sheen, which jumps out much more, now that the crystal is starting to look a little more pristine.

I used to make some leather straps too. But it's dusty work, and I don't have a second workspace for it, so I've pretty much stopped doing it.

For men the most common size is 20mm followed by 18 and 22.

Hi The fact that it rotates ok and moves front to back ok and the movement locking screws are out there is not much left to hold it except probably the rubber locking gasket, But if it moves forwards enough for you to check and see is there are dial retaining screws around the edge of the movement and if so can you gain access to the to remove the dial. I have attaches some certina case details in the hope they might prove usefull. Certina C0174101103700 Case.pdf

You can get many uses out of a pin vice, I may have shown some. I think I post em again or its further uses. I mount a defective hr gear on pin vice, to push hairsprings home with on balance staffs Pull Canon pinion out with it. Remove roller table off of balance staff. Mount small rotors brush on vice pin, put the vice pin in a drill. You can use it to polish watch crystal or glass. I will post some pix soon, have a better camera . The benefit from kif trio tool you bought is to get the task done without inflicting damage to the spring. Little shock spring tend to get damaged by even a sewing needle. A shock spring is suppose to respond to shocks, in the event of a shock, a defective spring may jump out of the assembly before doing any good.

Today's watch is my recently restored 1958 Timex 100. I swapped the movement, cleaned up the exterior and polished the crystal. Judging by the shadow the hands left on the dial, there is a chance the lume is, or was radioactive.

Hi Speedtimekollection in europe, obsoletewatchandclockparts.com in UK, Welwynwatchparts.co.uk all sellers of used parts and part movements, could be wort a try. Or Have alook on the SCWF forum they have a market place for selling and buying Seiko,Citizen parts and its a mine of information.

A Luch SU 2365 based quartz. Date unknown, but from the style of the movement I would guess late 1970s. although it is alleged that this movement had quite a long production run. You can see the original USSR era cell was still in the watch when I opened it, along with many years of accumulated nastiness. Here it is looking a whole lot more wholesome following a deep clean and a replacement cell. Some of you may recognize this dial design, as being one of the ones I looked, and created my own portrayal of, in the Decal Dial tutorial thread. I've swapped it for my other recent favorite CCCP escape, the 19 Jewel Sekonda TV face, which has spent quite a lot of time on my wrist recently.

Yikes!

Give a read to the below

Hi Neat and versatile a nice tool to have.

Hi At this stage of the proceedings soldering Is worth a try If all else fails you could send me the bits of the clamp spring and I will have a go at making one for you from the brass. Just send me a PM if you want to do that.

Hi there that movement looks like its from an Ingersoll junior mens pocket watch cal 1911 hard to get parts for .Maybe wait for a donor movement to pop up ,they appear every now and then . How much damage is done to the hairspring is it bent or broken ? here's a working one for example https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1915-1920-Ingersoll-Junior-Open-Face-Pocket-Watch-12s-29602604-Running/123875878522?hash=item1cd793e67a:g:ePsAAOSw-NBdVa5z

That battery is not the right one, it's an alkaline, and you need silver oxide. The SR44Sw is the silver equivalent. It won't sit flat until held down by the clamp, the lower contact is sprung upwards.

Hello all. I'm new here. My first love is rescuing old clocks and restoring them to full working order. Pocket watches are a very close second. I'm sure I will find lots of useful information here.

Even with that screw missing the module should work anyway, so I suggest to try to understand why is that, before worying aboyut the screw. Attached the service sheet for you guidance. Note: if you want to do the electrical test as per document, make sure you use a low voltage ohmmeter, otherwise you will blow the coil. Also, be aware that quartz repair is not as easy as it may seem, so be advised that replacing the complete module may be the safest option, even if more expensive. FYI, we have a section on this forum where is considered polite for new members to introduce themselves. eta_959.001.pdf

Hahaha, that even trained watchmakers kill them sometimes! I mangled a microscopic one last week in a Lecoultre 426, the balance diameter in that is about 5.5mm so you can imagine the hairspring. Got it back in order luckily; I don't have very many springs that small.

Hi that would be a good idea , see what watchweasol says we he gets back online . I'm hoping that the wire glue will work as there is not much pressure on the clamp once in place . Just make sure you leave it as long as you can to cure ,at least overnight .

Thank you John. That's good advice. Fortunately, these are cheap movements, and I'm using them as practice. Would love to learn how to fix what I break before I try working on anything of value! Btw, everyone is so nice here. Glad to be a part of this forum.

yes, even one from 1958 \ 9

could that spring screwed on be upside down? vin

This looks like it may be a reversing pinion movement. The English developed this system because people were used to fusee movements which wind counterclockwise. This mechanism gave them the opportunity to wind in either direction. Do you have photos of the other two movements assembled? I can confirm by those. Thank you.

Thanks for advice Jdm, that explains why I only got one finger left.

Hi Graziano has given you some sound advise to try There is also speedkollection.com in europe who is a purveyor of parts and part watches. also welwynwatchparts.co.uk. If you cant get any bits I have some brass sheet which i have made bits from so if all else fails i can send you a bit to try and make another clamp it should not be too difficult.

Some wheels can be tighten. But usually best is to replace . I think it's the one with 3 arms on a 2772? I have tighten a few of those . A large round stake. And give it a small blow with a hammer . And turn it around. That works . But not sure how long as the wheel gets thinner in the middle . Could give each arm a small blow to with a thin round stake . But it's harder to get the exact same on all arms. If not the wheel will wobble.

I suppose that you should contact the official service center about availability of these parts, I think it's unlikely, but one never knows. If parts are available you will have to send the watch in for repair and service.

Hi you use the winding key on the square on the min hand actualy its the front of the canon pinion to be exact and manualy turn the hands round.

Much as I am enjoying the "Dimetron", there are a couple of others in the to-do pile that I needed to take a look at. This is the first of them. The mechanism got a quick clean, and a fresh AG10, and now it is ticking away nicely. That still leaves the crystal and the crown. I can easily fit a temporary crown, and possibly then source a genuine one online, or simply go for one of the close matches I have in my stash. The crystal on the other hand has me stumped. How do I accurately cut shapes from 1mm thick glass I wonder? "Very carefully" would be the obvious response, or perhaps "with a fantoosh $10,000 specialist glass cutting machine" might be another, but bearing in mind the theme of this site is "watch repair talk ", rather than "send your watch to Longines and complain about the eye watering glazing bill - talk", what suggestions does anybody have? The original glass is flat and of uniform 1.09 mm thickness, without a beveled edge, so it should be possible to do this with a little skill and imagination I would have thought. In the meantime, while I come up with a solution, I have cut a temporary cover from some acrylic to protect the dial and hands. Before anyone asks, this one doesn't quite make it in to the 404 club, but it did leave plenty of change from a tenner, and I couldn't resist a bargain.