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When I see a clock like this and the word RESTORED is present in its selling advertisement I always like to look. 9 times out 10 I’m disappointed. They are never properly restored. The people who undertake the work charge very high prices and you end up with something like this. Screws unattended. All should have the burr removed from their heads and highly polished Platform screws. If signs of bluing. All should have the burr removed from their heads and highly polished and re-blued. Back plate pins should be the same size, where cut should be nicely rounded off. All pins should be cut and nicely rounded off. They should be steel not brass. They should be straight not bent. Parts missing should be made and replaced. This clock is missing the stop work. Barrel arbors should be tidied up and the flat sides polished. Hand setting part should be tidied up and the flat sides polished. The centre wheel end should be polished. The same goes for the hand collet https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Beautiful-antique-French-striking-carriage-clock-c-1860-5-restored-10-18/113478774506?hash=item1a6bdcaeea:g:Ba8AAOSwQ5pcHnCS

I have been working on some of my older pieces and today chose this 1953 Monroe. 3 step ultra sonic cleaning, lube, grease, polish and even a new old stock crystal. Running like a champ. Also show with an advert from the era and an original copy of the letter Timex sent out to service shops. This letter accompanied the 1961 service manual and registered the shop for future service publications.

The northeast U.S. should be chock full of good watchmakers. Have a look at the American Watch and Clockmakers Institute page, they have a search function to find watchmakers near you.

Hello all - my name is Matt, I’m a new hobbyist from the Pacific Northwest. I got into working on watches because I wanted to relume a 1940’s Wittnauer. Funnily enough, I haven’t gotten around to that original project yet. My first serious project has been restoring a Clebar Big Eyes Chrono from the 70’s. I got it for $20 in non-working condition, some rust, missing a pusher, and a cracked crystal. I’ve since cleaned the movement, replaced a couple rusted parts, replaced the pushers, new crystal, and new gaskets all around. I did relume the dial and hands (with Noctilumina). Waiting on a BoR bracelet to complete the project. My current project is restoring a 17j Tudor ETA 2784 and building a watch around it. Might be a long term project as I assemble the parts but that’s okay. Look forward to the community here!

If you google “hands venus 170” and “aiguilles venus 170” and look at the images, you will see a few options - notably watchesulike and urdelar. You might like to try a few other languages too

On seconds and sub-dial hands, you can sometimes just use a needle to broach the pipe open.

Wow, Everyone, thanks for all the input - I appreciate it, to include such speedy replies. Nicklesilver, I will try one of the watch repairers in the list you sent - thanks again. Manodeoro, thanks for your suggestion - I will keep it in mind. I prefer to try and save the original and I hope I did not torpedo it completely. I like the photo you sent. Noirrac1J, hopefully the situation is not that bad as you suggest. I will re-post on here once I find someone to work on it - this may take some time. RyMoeller, yes, the shortcut concern with ebay is a concern. But in fairness, I have not shown the folks at this shop the watch yet, or even a photo. Ironically I served on tanks and armored personnel carriers in the Army wearing this chronograph and never once damaged it - even in a jeep accident where it - and my hand - went through the windshield glass - a thick leather band took the brunt of the impact and the glass shards. But when I tried to take it apart... D

Yes, I've ordered from OF once before I and do recall having to broach one of the hands. Good catch @noirrac1j.

The assortment above shows three watches. Mercury, Monroe and Marquette all of which used the model 21 movement. Picture in this post is the Mercury which also has the feature of a seconds hand.

As above, this could be any number of things. You have to go through systematically: check the train freedom, check that the pallet fork is free, check that the balance is free (minus pallet fork). In all likelihood it should run fairly well, even with an unserviced barrel, definitely better than what you have. Like rodabod said, with such a huge gain there is almost certainly an issue with the hairspring- but don't mess around there until you've done all the basic checks. And do, do peg out the jewel holes- particularly the hole jewels for the fork.

Greetings all. Lifelong engineer/scientist (now retired) with a passion for anything mechanical, from a watch movement to a Rube Goldberg device. Stumbled across Mark's videos on YouTube and was totally hooked by the topics, style, knowledge and quality of the presentations. Good with my hands and hand/eye type activities, but as yet overawed by the miniature size of watch movements - things seem to large in Mark's detailed videos :-) Fascinated to learn how these things work, although I may never put that info to practical use - we''ll see. Recent owner of what appears to be a very good Chinese replica of a well-known watch. Unscrewing the back was a revelation. And it's still running :-) Best to all, Jimi

+900s? I'd be looking at the hairspring first. Make sure it is clean and that none of the coils foul each other or anything else.

I'm 100% OK with you but the seller has almost only new old stock parts and movements from Yema, so this is certainly not a clone but a legit Valjoux. When I wrote "unbranded" I refered to the bridge, which is branded "Anguenot Frères" on LeJour chronomètres (see pic below), and not to the Valjoux brand or the 7733 caliber number. Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk

I usually have some PVC or Delrin barstock around, which is useful for many things including oddball supports and pushers for case work, making movement holders etc. I'll chuck up a scrap of suitable size and bore out a recess to accept the crystal. You have to creep up on the final diameter so the crystal fits in snugly but not too tight (and not too loose!). There's always a hole in the center to allow pushing the crystal out when finished. Once the crystal is in it will be running very true as you leave the plastic in after turning the recess- this means you can do accurate work even with a wonky chuck. Now, with a very sharp tool, bore the crystal to just fit the ring. The pics show a tension ring crystal I had lying around, I hope they're illustrative enough.

I'd like to post a pic of the watch my wife gave me for Christmas: Some assembly required. lol