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phydaux

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About phydaux

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    Watch Enthusiast
  • Birthday 08/25/1965

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    Male
  • Location
    New Hampshire, USA

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  1. I had no idea a hard copy version was available. Thank you SO MUCH!!!
  2. So when I first got the watchmaking bug I bought an inexpensive set of screwdrivers: I'm noticing that when I keep the screwdrivers in the carousel the smallest screwdriver bit becomes loose and cocks off at an angle. Every so often I have to loosen the set screw, re-seat the bit, and then re-tighten the set screw. Does anyone else have this problem? Does EVERYONE keep their screwdrivers in the carousel, or do you keep them in a box? Also, I'm thinking I might want to keep an extra cheap jeweler's screwdriver around JUST to use on the set screws.
  3. So I'm working my casing up a naked movement. Making TONS of mistakes. Just ordered my THIRD cheap Chinese 2824 clone movement thanks to screw-ups rendering the first two non-functional. Thank God for cheap Chinese clone movements. Anyway, my question is this: When I have the dial and hands attached, I then wind the movement and let it run overnight so that I can make sure that the hands don't rub on each other, or hit the dial's attached indices. Then I want to turn the movement over, move the click and release mainspring tension, then remove the stem so that I can put the movement in the case. So I take the movement off of the movement holder (dedicated 11 1/2 linge movement holder, best $15 bucks I ever spent on eBay) and... then what? Is it safe to put a running movement face down on a case cushion? If not, then do I just skip releasing he click all together, and let the movement run down for however many hours it takes? Even with the movement not running, would it THEN be safe to put the movement face down on a cushion with the dial and hands still attached? Of will I rink damaging the hands/scratching the dial? Some stuff you just can't learn on your own. Thank God for the internet.
  4. Lots of DIY watch kits from paces like Esslinger.
  5. So I started by choosing a Chinese ETA 2824 clone movement, dive-style case, dial, hands, and bracelet. In another thread I posted my travail about getting the dial to work with the movement. I ended up having to order another dial. Today I had the new dial & hands attached, and placed in the watch case along with the movement ring. I put the new crown on the stem, and measured how much to trim off the stem. Well, NATURALLY I cut the stem too short. Honest to God, if there's a mistake to be made then I don't think I've MISSED a single one. I keep telling myself that this is my first project, and just like pancakes the first one is always a throw-away. But MAN this can be frustrating. I mean, Mark makes it LOOK so easy... The good news is it's just a cheap Chinese clone movement. I can get another for $40 US. Or I could just order ETA 2824 stems for $5.00 a pair. I mean, what are the odds that a genuine ETA stem WON'T WORK with a Chinese clone movement? Shoulda started with an ETA 6498...
  6. My first project as a watch hobbyist has been sourcing a case, dial, hands, and movement off of eBay and casing up a watch. I was inspired by Mark's videos here: And here:
  7. I'm considering taking this class. Has anyone here taken it?I'm balking a little at the price tag - $1245.00 US. I'm already comfortable with casing up a naked movement. Will this class get more "under the hood" regarding the movement? Detail disassembly? Will it cover anything more than I could get out of Mark's videos?
  8. Well, progress to SMALLER watches. The dirty little secret is that mechanical watches are actually NOT all that complex of machines. What they are is TINY. A pocket watch movement will be ~50% larger than a wristwatch movement. So it's easier for a beginner because the parts are larger.
  9. I picked up a naked Chinese copy of an ETA 6498 pocket watch movement off of eBay for ~$40US. Followed that up with a Chinese ETA 2824 clone movement for the same price. Then a genuine Miyota 8215 for ~$30US. Now I'm sourcing dials, cases, and hands and turning them into functional watches.
  10. I got the replacement dial I ordered. I trimmed the correct dial feet this time, applied the dial to the movement and then the hands. I wound the movement and I'm going to let it run for 24 hours to make sure the hands don't jam. If it's running smoothly tomorrow night then I will case it up. Wish me luck.
  11. 3d printed using titanium dust and set with a laser.
  12. Speaking of watches and 3D printers... I know a company in Boston, only a few miles down the road from me, that buys old American pocket watch movements. There were several major companies in the States around 1900 that were cranking out pocket watches in numbers like a million a month. One of these, Waltham, was about halfway between me and Boston, but there was also Hamilton, Eglin, and Illinois Watch Company. Some of the Rail Road Grade movements were the equivalent of COSC certified chronometers. During the Great Depression of the 1930s most of these that had silver or gold cases had the cases sold for scrap. The naked movements were left in sock drawers across the country for decades. Now antique stores all across America all have dozens of vintage pocket watches in them, along with a few dozen naked vintage movements, and some of these at one time Rail Road grade, plus BUCKETS of random vintage pocket watch parts. This Boston company is buying up these vintage movements and refurbishing them. They are bring the Rail Road grade movements back to near COSC chronometer timekeeping. And because it's a pocket watch movement they have ~60 hours of reserve from a full wind. Then they have banks of 3D printers that can "print" in metal. They print wristwatch cases out of brass, bronze, tin, aluminum, and steel. Some of them are really beautiful. And they sell these refurbished wrist pocket watches for modern Swiss watch prices.
  13. So I checked a few tech drawings, looked over my ETA 2824 clone movement, and decided what feet I needed to keep and what feet I needed to remove. I plugged in my Dremel and cut off a foot. Checked again, and it was one of the ones I needed to keep. sigh.... Well, I cut off the two that DID need to get cut off, then ordered some dial dots. I fit the dial on the movement and fit the hands. Then I wound the movement and let it run. The hands jammed. A little "adjusting" and the hands ran OK. Then I put the dial & movement in the case. It wiggles. I need a movement ring, which I have no idea how to source. Or fit, so that the movement gets held firmly in place but the rotor still turns. Someone PLEASE remind me why I decided to build my own watch and not just buy an Invicta off of the Home Shopping Channel? One other thing I learned - Adjustable movement holders SUCK. I'm ordering an aluminum 2428/2436 movement holder off of eBay today. By the time I'm done building this watch with its cheap Chinese movement, after buying & re-buying parts, and buying tools, oh God the money I've spent on tools, and am still spending, and all the time I've spent, I could have bought a Grand Seiko.
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