Jump to content

phydaux

Member
  • Content Count

    93
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

7 Neutral

About phydaux

  • Rank
    Watch Enthusiast
  • Birthday 08/25/1965

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Hampshire, USA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I had no idea a hard copy version was available. Thank you SO MUCH!!!
  2. So when I first got the watchmaking bug I bought an inexpensive set of screwdrivers: I'm noticing that when I keep the screwdrivers in the carousel the smallest screwdriver bit becomes loose and cocks off at an angle. Every so often I have to loosen the set screw, re-seat the bit, and then re-tighten the set screw. Does anyone else have this problem? Does EVERYONE keep their screwdrivers in the carousel, or do you keep them in a box? Also, I'm thinking I might want to keep an extra cheap jeweler's screwdriver around JUST to use on the set screws.
  3. So I'm working my casing up a naked movement. Making TONS of mistakes. Just ordered my THIRD cheap Chinese 2824 clone movement thanks to screw-ups rendering the first two non-functional. Thank God for cheap Chinese clone movements. Anyway, my question is this: When I have the dial and hands attached, I then wind the movement and let it run overnight so that I can make sure that the hands don't rub on each other, or hit the dial's attached indices. Then I want to turn the movement over, move the click and release mainspring tension, then remove the stem so that I can put the m
  4. Lots of DIY watch kits from paces like Esslinger.
  5. So I started by choosing a Chinese ETA 2824 clone movement, dive-style case, dial, hands, and bracelet. In another thread I posted my travail about getting the dial to work with the movement. I ended up having to order another dial. Today I had the new dial & hands attached, and placed in the watch case along with the movement ring. I put the new crown on the stem, and measured how much to trim off the stem. Well, NATURALLY I cut the stem too short. Honest to God, if there's a mistake to be made then I don't think I've MISSED a single one. I keep telling myself t
  6. My first project as a watch hobbyist has been sourcing a case, dial, hands, and movement off of eBay and casing up a watch. I was inspired by Mark's videos here: And here:
  7. I'm considering taking this class. Has anyone here taken it?I'm balking a little at the price tag - $1245.00 US. I'm already comfortable with casing up a naked movement. Will this class get more "under the hood" regarding the movement? Detail disassembly? Will it cover anything more than I could get out of Mark's videos?
  8. Well, progress to SMALLER watches. The dirty little secret is that mechanical watches are actually NOT all that complex of machines. What they are is TINY. A pocket watch movement will be ~50% larger than a wristwatch movement. So it's easier for a beginner because the parts are larger.
  9. I picked up a naked Chinese copy of an ETA 6498 pocket watch movement off of eBay for ~$40US. Followed that up with a Chinese ETA 2824 clone movement for the same price. Then a genuine Miyota 8215 for ~$30US. Now I'm sourcing dials, cases, and hands and turning them into functional watches.
  10. I got the replacement dial I ordered. I trimmed the correct dial feet this time, applied the dial to the movement and then the hands. I wound the movement and I'm going to let it run for 24 hours to make sure the hands don't jam. If it's running smoothly tomorrow night then I will case it up. Wish me luck.
  11. 3d printed using titanium dust and set with a laser.
  12. Speaking of watches and 3D printers... I know a company in Boston, only a few miles down the road from me, that buys old American pocket watch movements. There were several major companies in the States around 1900 that were cranking out pocket watches in numbers like a million a month. One of these, Waltham, was about halfway between me and Boston, but there was also Hamilton, Eglin, and Illinois Watch Company. Some of the Rail Road Grade movements were the equivalent of COSC certified chronometers. During the Great Depression of the 1930s most of these that had silver or
  13. So I checked a few tech drawings, looked over my ETA 2824 clone movement, and decided what feet I needed to keep and what feet I needed to remove. I plugged in my Dremel and cut off a foot. Checked again, and it was one of the ones I needed to keep. sigh.... Well, I cut off the two that DID need to get cut off, then ordered some dial dots. I fit the dial on the movement and fit the hands. Then I wound the movement and let it run. The hands jammed. A little "adjusting" and the hands ran OK. Then I put the dial & movement in the case. It wiggles. I need
×
×
  • Create New...