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About DPhillip

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  1. I tried boiling the o ring and then using a heat gun on it. Neither worked. As soon as I pressed the back into place the ring oozed out of the groove a quarter of an inch. The watch is only a small lady's Timex. Bizarre. I have to get a new o-ring, clearly. Also, I test-fit the back and o-ring on the watch before using this silicon grease and it clicked into place just fine with no problem. So if we want to expand o-rings, perhaps to take out some enemy's missile program, this stuff is the ticket! BTW I emailed Esslinger about it - no reply. To be clear, the grease is an Esslinger product - the watch was made in India - not sure where they source their o-rings. DP
  2. Wow - OK. I will try the boiling water.DP
  3. Hello, I was replacing batteries in two watches - a Pulsar over 20 years old and a year-old Timex, and I used an Esslinger silicon lubrication/grease kit to lube the o-rings in the watch backs. The kit consists of sponges in a plastic jar, soaked in the silicon grease. Both o-rings expanded, making it impossible to re-seat the watch backs. The Pulsar back screws down, the Timex is a press fit. I actually tested the fit on the Timex before installing a new battery and lubing the o-ring, as I had trouble with the Pulsar o-ring earlier and I wanted to record what happened. As soon as I lubed the Timex o-ring, it got bigger - putting any pressure on the watch back causes the ring to ooze out one side or the other. Any thoughts on what is going on here? Esslinger has a good rep, I thought; I never figured their silicon grease product would cause something like this. Is there anything I can do to shrink the Timex o-ring? The Pulsar o-ring needs to be replaced - it is old anyhow. Thanks!
  4. Thanks Nickelsilver, I will check out the set screw first. Hopefully I can find a screwdriver that will fit it since it is smaller than the tool I have. From pictures I have seen of other Universal Geneve watches of this era, it looks like the crown is as far in as it will go. In other words, it stands about 1mm or so from the case.
  5. Hello, My father gave me this Universal Geneve dress watch he found online recently. We think it dates from the 1940s and is very similar to the one his mother gave him in about 1943, when he was 14 - and which he still wears. According to him, the stem falls out easily. So far, this has not happened since I have had it. I can pull the stem out to adjust the time just fine, and the watch winds easily. I removed the back to photograph the movement, which is a Universal Geneve 263. My father's though was that possibly the set screw is loose - by this he meant the screw that would ensure the stem does not pull free while pulling it to the set position. There is a screw nearby and it is very small. My watch kit does not have a screwdriver small enough to fit it. My understanding is that before detent buttons, screws were used for this purpose. Do you think that is the case here? I am not sure if the crown should be fitting close to the watch case when pressed down after setting the hands. Right now I can't get it any closer; it stands a little proud - not sure if that is normal and correct. Also I am not sure if I should have this looked at by a pro or if I can take a crack at it if I can obtain the necessary sized screwdriver. A related question - the watch back was a little loose and I was able to unscrew it easily using my fingers and my case wrench. When reinstalling it, should I seal it with silicon or anything? I included a picture of the inside of the case back - I love how it has been even though it is very plain on the outside. I can feel myself really getting hooked on these vintage watches - just winding this simple-looking watch has this incredible tactile feel. Thanks for any advice!
  6. Thank you all - stem is now out. I loosened the screw nearest the stem by about 2.5 turns and tried putting a probe (a thin, pointed rod in an X-Acto knife handle) into the hole adjacent to the word "Corp". This IAW the topic/8264-seiko-crown-removal/ discussion - thanks TexasDon. It did not do anything immediately so I then tried placing the probe into the v notch above the O in "Seiko" (also discussed in that thread) - there is a tiny bright steel extension there, with a dimple or pit. I moves very slightly in and out with the stem. Yesterday I had pressed down steadily on this while pulling on the crown with no luck. This time, I gently wiggled the end of the probe in the notch and that seems to have done the trick. There is pitting around the case and that may be from water and previous attempts to pry the back of the watch off to change the battery. I plan to put a new gasket in and seal it, then hope for the best. I have a few other quartz watches, one a Pulsar chronograph dating from 1990, and I never experienced fogging with those despite multiple battery changes. However, they have screw-on backs if that makes any difference. It will be interesting to see how to put this stem back in without damaging anything. Thanks again, D
  7. Hi, These are some photos of a Seiko lady's watch I bought for my wife several years ago. The watch runs fine but fogs up. She brought it in to a local watch repair shop a couple of times now for this, at about $10.00 US each time. They cleaned the lens but it fogs up again before very long. My thought is that they are not installing a new seal. I took the back off this weekend to see and the gasket looked pretty distorted. It was not broken. There was a lot if debris under or around it though. I plan to put in a new one. I also wanted to clean the crystal from the inside myself, but I cannot get the stem out. I can't find a detent to press, and I loosened the closest screw until it fell out (I was able to get it back in after several attempts) - no luck whatsoever with the stem. I found a manual for the 1N00A online but it does not discuss how to remove the stem. I probed several of the holes in the cover but they mostly appear to be for holding the gear axles in place - I also tried one spot on the edge of the movement near the stem. Nothing allows me to remove it. The stem is threaded - is that significant? Thanks for any help you can give on this one. There has to be a trick to it...
  8. Manodeoro, The bridge is marked J.P. Pingouin Co. This name is engraved on the case back as well. Photo 387 below is the clearest; however, the others could be of some use. DP
  9. Wow, Everyone, thanks for all the input - I appreciate it, to include such speedy replies. Nicklesilver, I will try one of the watch repairers in the list you sent - thanks again. Manodeoro, thanks for your suggestion - I will keep it in mind. I prefer to try and save the original and I hope I did not torpedo it completely. I like the photo you sent. Noirrac1J, hopefully the situation is not that bad as you suggest. I will re-post on here once I find someone to work on it - this may take some time. RyMoeller, yes, the shortcut concern with ebay is a concern. But in fairness, I have not shown the folks at this shop the watch yet, or even a photo. Ironically I served on tanks and armored personnel carriers in the Army wearing this chronograph and never once damaged it - even in a jeep accident where it - and my hand - went through the windshield glass - a thick leather band took the brunt of the impact and the glass shards. But when I tried to take it apart... D
  10. I'm sorry - I think I meant chronograph guys - it has a stop watch feature. Is that not normal for a 7733 movement? I have no idea if a 7733 meets the definition of a true chronometer. Thanks for the input so far! It is interesting an unbranded 7733 is available but I would really prefer to fix the original if possible. Question is who. I just have a certain vibe from this place that worries me. D
  11. After several months I am coming back to this string to get an opinion if possible - I finally visited my local, professional watch repair business to discuss my broken LeJour. They get good reviews locally. I laid out the issue and asked if they had a specific chronometer overhaul cost and to see what they thought would be involved. They have not seen the chronometer yet. The good news is that they don't charge to look at the piece to give an estimate (I thought they did); however, they were not willing to give an overhaul price. They certainly seemed interested in working on it. They would look at it and give me some options, with possible repair, overhaul and parts replacement ranging up to $700. Also, they told me to consider replacing the movement outright. Thoughts? $700 sounds high for Maryland (I was hoping for $400-$500 tops) but maybe that is the way it is. Also, replacement of the movement sounds extreme, especially as I consider it to be part of the watch. I know they made a lot of 7733s back in the day, but I do not know if they are very available as complete running units today, or what they cost. I have not had much luck identifying any online so far. I have not had time to look that hard yet though. Thank you kindly, Duane
  12. Good idea - I will try that. I will have to measure the case size etc.
  13. Gentlemen, thanks for answering. As it happens we do have a serious watch repair shop in Frederick, MD where I live. I will check their policy/price for an overhaul. I used to live in a town a half hour from here and that is where the older gentleman I mentioned had his shop. He undoubtedly would have charged less for this repair. Of course, that is now moot. There was nothing wrong with the watch except the missing case screws, until I had to go exploring. Jeez, I feel like I totaled a classic car. The shop in Frederick charges almost $20 for a quartz watch battery install and at least $10 just to open a case, so how high they might go on this worries me. There are antique stores around here (plenty of them - the civil war was fought in this area) and some of the vendors sell and even repair antique watches. I was thinking of checking at least one of them out to see if they could do a chronometer repair. But yes, sounds like I need to bite the bullet. You will notice the face is bent up where a gear has pushed upwards - I am hoping that is not permanent. Another watch I have is an Elgin Shockmaster that works perfectly - but the back of the case is missing. It was my father's and he says the case back unscrewed and disappeared while he was out for a walk in a wooded area - he never could find it. I have been told it is nearly impossible to find a case back. Do you have any suggestions, such as try and find a complete, different case that will take the movement? Thanks again on the input. As for Nucejoe, I won't know what parts are needed specifically until the chrono overhaul starts - which a pro really needs to do. I guess I will stick to other hobbies where I can't do as much damage, like welding and model airplanes.
  14. If they are of assistance to anyone, here are multiple shots of the movement outside the case - including some on-edge shots showing at least one gear out of line. That gear is pushing the watch face upward. I do not have any tool as yet to remove the hands - I suppose if I did the gear - perhaps more than one - could fall out? Thanks for your opinions on this. The crown can be reinserted but the stem must be passing by at least one gear. D
  15. I finally was able to take a couple of photos - hopefully these are close and clear enough to trigger some thoughts. I am not sure if seeing the opposite side of the movement is useful. I have a macro lens so if needed I will try again with that.
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