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Wearing a 'Trylon' boy-sized watch, about 32mm across without the crown, probably from the fifties, Powered by a Felsa 692 "bidynator'. I believe this was the first watch which could wind both ways which doubled the winding efficiency. Dial has the typical 'dead' lume with some of it breaking away from the minute hand, hour hand is a disaster. I haven't serviced it since I got it a few months back but will get around to it. Will fix the lume then. Watch is currently running ok. This would be a typical micro-brand from the 50s but the stainless steel (unbranded) makes it slightly above average. Waterproofing and shock-proofing also add to the quality. Dial has some patina but its even and doesn't detract from the watch. A lot scratches on the surface which I will attempt to polish out. Case-back...'all stainless-steel'. This is a good thing. Humming away Felsa came up with a simple way of removing the auto-wind rotor, next to the rotor-pivot there is a pin in a slot. Just move it as indicated by the arrow and the rotor is free. All the rotors I've come across so far have been jeweled, I don't know if there were any jeweled rotors. The case screws on most of the Felsa automatics from the 50s and 60s are not as elegant compared to other watches, depending on winding a screw out against the lip in the case. French made case. Trylon are still around, surprisingly.. not sure what to make of this watch... Have a nice day! Anilv

Look at the table at the top of this page: http://stsupplyonline.com/catalog/citizen-movements-c-28_1177.html It supposedly tells you how to find a Miyota movement when you have the Citizen number, and vice versa.

Some of you may remember my search for good 1960,s seiko sportsmaster diashock dial. well after about a year of checking the bay religiously I came up trumps after finding a none runner with a really scratched glass and battered worn case but I could see the dial looked ok so I left my bid went to bed and luckly won it so here it is back to its original best. Before After

Hi everyone! Jesse here. I'm from Sydney, Australia. I've taken up a new hobby fixing watches and have been doing basic battery replacement and hand restoration for friends. It's a rewarding experiencing tinkering with watches and knowing that you're able to successfully fix stuff albeit minor. I hope to hang around the forum as I try to learn more of the trade. Thanks so much everyone. Jesse

On cleaning mainsprings. The idea is that the edges of the spring should ride smoothly over the lid and base (roof and floor so to speak) of the barrel, the coils should glide smoothly on their sides as they wind and unwind, and for autos, they should slip when fully wound. The only wear that you generally come across will be on the lid and base if the barrel. Even the hole where the barrel arbor goes never wears. So the idea of cleaning themainspring is good as it allows cleaning and assessment of the barrel inner surface followed by proper lubrication. Winding in by hand is doable and even with mainspring winders you will come across some combinations where the winders just won't work. Take it slow, face away from the work bench and wear eye protection. You need to wear gloves of finger cots as well, not only for protection but also to protect the freshly cleaned mainspring from contamination. Good luck! Anil

Jules Borel is your friend... but it doesn't get you a much cheaper solution. If you search their database for the 0855, the only part available is the capacitor, clicking on that also turns up the Miyota 0W50, which is the same as Citizen 0850. http://cgi.julesborel.com/cgi-bin/matcgi2?ref=Ve_BYM Cousins offers you a link to the parts lists for both, so you can check if the part you need is the same. https://www.cousinsuk.com/PDF/categories/2620_Citizen 0850,0855,0870,0875.pdf Bad news is that parts for the Miyota movement are also not available and the movement is £40

Just glue them on the lathe and grind the shape You want

I use www.watchoscope.com They have a DIY microphone manual.

Where do you source your jewels? I bought a ton off eBay but none are domed Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do not assume that a timegrapher is anything advanced. It s a very basic and simple tool that will tell you if the watch has been serviced properly and runs well, plus of course allows accurate regulation. Unless you work only with quartz watches is indispensable. A basic one cost $180 or you can search on this forum or google for timegrapher applications. Much more important for the beginner than collecting a pharmacy of exotic oils or using expensive tweezers and drivers.

Yes it looks like a removable front bezel. As you rightly say a razor blade ran around the edge to start it of then widen the gap with your stanley blade.

Thanks It looks ok to me as it has a smaller shaft diameter at each end but as you say part of it could be missing, well its off to the practice watch pile for the Cronel as I doubt I will find any bits for it and I doubt I could turn a new one.

Here a few better pics of sorting the massive amount of items......the watchmakers bench is still in my storageroom, I first have to clear some space in my office for it. Most of the parts are unsorted so I started out with the sorted items and put all the rest in boxes again for checking at a later time, sorted on subject. It is a lot of fun to do......:)

Goodmorning and thanks for the warm welcome. I spend a good part of the sunday to unpack the boxes and on request of oldhippy I made a few photos. I apologise for the poor quality as I made the pics with my phone. In the boxes, I found a lot of very nice items like a Bergeon caseback opener, a winder, a Witschi watchexpert(hope it still is in working order), crystal press, a huge load of tools and parts, springs, crystals, crowns, stems ect ect. I really like the old frames with the ETA parts in it. Enjoy.....

I was just going through a used bookstore this afternoon after I got off work and came across this. Decided to take it home! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those marks on the edge of the barrel are telling me that the arbor is not or was not upright. It can happen by worn out bushings or if the barrel bridge is not placed back correctly. The edge of the barrel was sticking to the bridge cousing winding hard. This also explaining the marks on the crown wheel teeth and the broken stem. Excellent pictures and presentation

in the index, note there is no definition of "caliber". also in the main spring pages, Movato has a patent on a winding clutch. i would like to know if any other watches used this clutch. vinn

Now that looks familiar! Here's mine, owned from new. Gryf

1980 Seiko Silverwave Quartz Ani-Digi ....Ref H239-5040