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As I am just getting my work area started I need to know what grease and oils I need to have on hand.  I see that there are many different kinds but I am wondering what are the basics that you can start with to service most movements.  

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Well I would definitely start with Moebius 9010 (for train wheels and balance endstones) and 9020 (for train wheels) if you are working on Pocket Watches.

Moebius 9415 is a must for Pallet/Escape wheel teeth.

A quality silicon grease.

Moebius D5 is essential (barrel arbor, motion work).

Molycote DX or Moebius 9501 grease for keyless work.

Moebius 9501 or 9504 for high friction (e.g. Cannon pinion, Setting lever spring and anything at high friction).

Moebius 8200 grease for mainspring. Moebius 8217 for barrel wall (automatic watches)

 

It's a lot but at a minimum get 9010, 9415, D5 and 8200

 

I hope this helps.

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About a year ago when I was just starting to get a bit serious about starting this hobby I bought one of those cheap watch repair kits. I have since replaced all the crap in there with quality versions of what they were supposed to be. My question relating to this topic is this little tube of oil in the kit. Is this just more junk from the kit or does it have any purpose or can it be used in place of any of Marks suggestions? Seems VERY light and my feeling is that the trash can is its new place.

post-56-0-73628100-1392842307_thumb.jpg

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I would not trust it. The last thing you want is for oil to spread out of where it is intended to be.

 

Its probably still good for some things though. I use cheap clock oil for lubricating my tools like my lathe, the threads on pin vices etc.

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About to purchase the suggested lubricants and wanted to know if these prices seem normal to you? It's nearly $200 for just 4 small lubes! Anyone seen them anywhere cheaper/smaller quantity? This is my cart on esslinger.com

post-56-0-12275200-1392849309_thumb.jpg

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Hey DWDrummer,

I just noticed you are in KC. I am in Overland Park. What watch shop do you use? I am VERY new to the hobby myself. I have been collecting tools, reading blog posts, and reading Henry Fried's bible. I an currently going through the http://www.clockmaker.com.au/diy_seiko_7s26/ tutorial. I have taken a perfectly functioning Seiko and turned it into a pile of parts! I am waiting for L&R cleaning fluids to arrive so I can clean the parts and move forward.

At any rate didn't intend to hijack your thread just wanted to connect with a local amateur watchmaker. In the future maybe we could split costs on things?

Regards,

Alec

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Well I would definitely start with Moebius 9010 (for train wheels and balance endstones) and 9020 (for train wheels) if you are working on Pocket Watches.

Moebius 9415 is a must for Pallet/Escape wheel teeth.

A quality silicon grease.

Moebius D5 is essential (barrel arbor, motion work).

Molycote DX or Moebius 9501 grease for keyless work.

Moebius 9501 or 9504 for high friction (e.g. Cannon pinion, Setting lever spring and anything at high friction).

Moebius 8200 grease for mainspring.

 

It's a lot but at a minimum get 9010, 9415, D5 and 8200

 

I hope this helps.

Is this acceptable for Molycote Dx??

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CAD6AAE/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A8FEBY5XL3B8V

Thanks,

Alec

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Is Moebius 9501 acceptable for the mainspring? As I don't have 8200

Will I do damage to the mainspring by using 9501; or is it just due to the cost difference between the two that 8200 is the choice?

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Hello, I'm a new member, I'm a lot into watches but with little experience. Still I think I can answer the last 2 posts. Please, feel free to disagree since this is all a learning experience.

 

To Alec:

I think the problem with the substitution might be a "spreading" effect potentially contaminating other parts in the mechanism. Oils designed for watches are supposed to stay in place. By using that molycote substitute you may be risking its interaction with other oils in the movement causing contamination resulting in decline of efficiency or worst. With that said, it would be interesting to consult the manufacturer and/or try it in a test watch and see what happens! It is my experience that a lot of products out there, sold as specialized items, come from widely available standards used in far related fields.

 

To Lawson:

Even though I have yet to experiment with other oils/greases including that one, I believe the Moebious 9501 is a synthetic grease used to alleviate friction problems. Normally we use "breaking" type grease in the main spring. This means that a certain friction is welcome inside the drum if I can put it that way for short. With that said, I don't think it will damage anything but make the mainspring slip and not work properly. This translates in a loss of power. In other words, your reserve may be less than optimal....

 

Happy watchmaking,

 

Robert

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Dwdrummer, isn't Eurotool a brand Horotec endorses? I remember something I got from them made by eurotool...I think. In any case, I agree with watchrepairguy!

 

Happy watchmaking,

 

Robert

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I think I finally cracked the Seiko oil equivalents according to their charts for 7S26/7S36:

 

Moebius A = Moebius 9010

S-4 = 8302

S-6 = KT22

 

Please, correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks,

 

Robert

Edited by bobm12

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I know this link is getting old but I just found Seiko's S-4 and S-6 lubricants and they are not one bit similar to the ETA thought to be their counterparts/substitutes. Here are some pictures:

 

S-4 for barrel spring and some related parts (the black thing you find when you open those Seiko 5 barretls)

post-253-0-33043300-1404847699_thumb.jpg

 

For keyless works and related: (anything requiring thicker oil than Moebius 9010)

post-253-0-21935800-1404847701_thumb.jpg

 

Needless to say that Moebius 9010 is the lighter oil recommended Seiko call it Moebius A. It also uses it to lube the pallet fork jewels! (rather than Moebius 941! 

 

In any case, if working on Seiko's these could be the only lube needed. If working with Swiss movements then oil needs will vary according to different brands even if they are based on ETA ebouchees. (Also the size of the ligne will influence the type of oil use)

 

Anyway, I hope this can help when choosing oils.

 

Robert

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Since Molykote DX can be substituted for 9501 for keyless work, can it also be substituted for 9501 on the cannon pinion and setting lever spring? The reason I ask is I'm trying to keep costs down and 9501 isn't cheap.

 

Thanks,

 

Don

Well I would definitely start with Moebius 9010 (for train wheels and balance endstones) and 9020 (for train wheels) if you are working on Pocket Watches.

Moebius 9415 is a must for Pallet/Escape wheel teeth.

A quality silicon grease.

Moebius D5 is essential (barrel arbor, motion work).

Molycote DX or Moebius 9501 grease for keyless work.

Moebius 9501 or 9504 for high friction (e.g. Cannon pinion, Setting lever spring and anything at high friction).

Moebius 8200 grease for mainspring.

 

It's a lot but at a minimum get 9010, 9415, D5 and 8200

 

I hope this helps.

 

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Since Molykote DX can be substituted for 9501 for keyless work, can it also be substituted for 9501 on the cannon pinion and setting lever spring? The reason I ask is I'm trying to keep costs down and 9501 isn't cheap.

Thanks,

Don

Keyless work includes the setting lever spring ;)

Moly should be fine with the cannon pinion although I have never used it for such I can see no reason why it would not be affective :)

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I figure  that given the amount of oil we use in a watch -- we average hobbyists -- once we get some basic stock of the most useful oils -- sometimes making them do double duty in a pinch -- we are set for a big while. In the meantime, we can start stocking up on the other oils -- little by little -- so in the end we can service any watch with the proper lubricant. One thing to keep an eye on is the expiration date vs. how much we use them. It is a shame to have to throw out expired oil! So, as it goes, Moebius 9501 is next in my list! In the meantime, DX and others will have to double duty for it.

 

On a happy note for those on a very strict budget, Novostar type B can be used instead of Moebius 9010. I don't do this but I do have a bottle in my "traveling tool kit" instead of the more expensive 9010 which stays at home.

Edited by bobm12

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Good points, Bob. I did an awful lot of reading before buying my lubricants and cut corners where I thought I could. I bought Jisma 124 ($44.50) in place of 9501 ($72) for the canon pinion. And, with shelf life and other factors in mind, I bought HP1300 in place of D5. Less money for a much smaller quantity, but twice the shelf life.

 

One of the books I've read, "Amateur Watchmaking" by Per Torphammar suggests the hobbyist only needs 9010, D5 and 8300. "...one "high-speed low-load oil" and one "low-speed high-load" oil, plus one grease for the barrel walls."

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About to purchase the suggested lubricants and wanted to know if these prices seem normal to you? It's nearly $200 for just 4 small lubes! Anyone seen them anywhere cheaper/smaller quantity? This is my cart on esslinger.com

 

Well in this thread http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/822-basic-oils-and-greases-again, I mentioned that I ordered small quantities of SIX lubricants for 100 EUR (120 EUR including postage).

 

The vendor is http://www.kalyanediffusion89.com (although I used their ebay store, which seemed to have a different selection ?). They're in France.

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Well I took a small plunge and purchased screwdrivers, tweezers, hand removers, and hand installers from Cousinsuk.  I purchased a 5X loupe from Amazon and I think I can get by with my cheap ebay kit case opener and holder.  I'm planning on using lighter fluid as cleaner unless someone on the board here can talk me out of it.  Now I need to purchase a small amount of oil for my clean and lube project.  I've identified 4 watch and clock repair establishments in a 40 mile radius but I need to know what to ask for.  I assume all I'll need is a few drops. 

 

Question: the manual calls for Moebius A and Seiko watch oil S-6.  It does not call for any grease.  In most of the posts I see recommendations for Moebius 9010, Moebius D5, etc...  Can someone give me recommended equivalents that I'm likely to find in these local shops for both the Moebius A and the S-6?

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Lighter fluid is good (I use that too :) )

I rinse the lighter fluid with 99% alcohol. It evaporates very quickly with no residue (NOT for anything with shellac !!!!!!!!!!!!).

For oils, the moebius should be available.

Edited by frenchie

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