2836-2 Stem Release Button

[Folkvisor]

Hi

While casing the movement and sizing the stem on my 2836-2 I pushed too hard on the stem release button and now the stem doesn't lock in place.

So, does this mean I have to take the watch apart again to fix it?

Maybe just the keyless works? Is there a magic word I can say? How about a potion.

Sigh...

 

[vinn3]

i think we have been there before.  no offense meant.  in my exsperience with the push pin or the screw;  if you mess up its "dial off"  at least.   the experts usually don't have this probem.  vin  p.s.  if the dial pin retaining set screws are "rusted it",  - another story.

[noirrac1j]

Sorry Folkvisor, you'll have to remove the hands and dial to get at the keyless works to fix.

J

[Folkvisor]

Are you suggesting that I'm not an expert?! LOL

Well, my watchmaker friend just told me that I'd have to take whatever I needed to take apart, apart. No help there...LOL

At least nothing is rusted in...new movement...

But - the watch works really well...

[SSTEEL]

Always use a 1.20mm screwdriver for this task, this prevents the very issue you are experiencing now.

[oldhippy]

Pushing a little hard it sounds as if a part that operates the winding has got out of place. You will need to remove the movement from the case, remove hands and dial.

[Chopin]

Not all movements require you to fix this from the dial side but I don't know this movement so you'll have to trust the others... It's sad when this happens, and frustrating, but we've all been there I think...

Edited October 18, 2017 by Chopin

[anilv]

You may be able to get it back together by removing the auto-winding stuff followed by the barrel bridge. The set lever will be behind the sliding pinion but I think its doable.

Having the stem in the hand-setting position should make it easier when re-moving and installing.

Anilv

[Folkvisor]

Hi all

Thank you for all the input - BIG HELP...

I was able to repair the problem by removing the dial and day/date dials. The setting lever was completely out of place so I removed and re-lubed everything before reassembly. It works well now.

However, I am having a problem setting the hands because I have been sizing the stem and the crown is quite loose making it impossible to turn the hands forward until the date changes. I am still sizing the stem for the screw-down crown so I don't want to put lock-tite on the stem until it is sized.

Should I size the stem until the screw-down crown fits and then put lock-tite on the stem so I can find midnight by turning the hands until the date changes?

This is probably a kind of stupid question.

Who knew casing a watch could be so difficult?

[Folkvisor]

Hi all, again

Any tips on sizing a stem for a screw-down crown would be welcome. I've never 'done' one before.

Someone suggested that the end of the stem should be basically even with the outside of the screw-down tube and that seems to be where this stem will end up. I've been very careful nipping bits off. The old "cut it off twice and it's still too short" saying comes to mind...

 

[noirrac1j]

Hello,

Do you have a digital caliper? If you do, I found this to be useful:

https://blog.esslinger.com/how-to-replace-a-watch-stem/

As an alternative, you can try eyeballing the amount you need to cut off, but still mark the stem with a fine sharpie so that you don't snip off too much. It might take two or three snips.

J

[Folkvisor]

Hi J

I have a calliper and I've used it.

Yes, I watched that one as well as one Mark has on line. My issue is more the spring-loaded crown. Do you measure to the point where the crown is screwed down? I'd imagine you do since this is where the winding has to start.

I was also concerned as to how much pressure the spring in the crown is putting on the stem inside the movement.

Anyway, I'll try the sharpie trick - it's a good one for marking how much to take off. 

Thank you

[noirrac1j]

Place the uncut stem on the crown and insert into movement. Push the stem/crown into the winding position and press the crown in so that it reaches its limit and then measure the distance from bottom of the crown to the case. Add 0.1mm to be safe.

 

J

[Folkvisor]

Thank you, J. I think I've got it. Putting the hands on is my bug bear now. It didn't have a wavy washer supplied so I stole one from another watch. I think it needs a spacer for the day/date stuff to work properly.

The watch works quite well. I'm almost there but I'm taking a break because my patience is wearing a bit thin.

D

[oldhippy]

24 minutes ago, Folkvisor said:

Thank you, J. I think I've got it. Putting the hands on is my bug bear now. It didn't have a wavy washer supplied so I stole one from another watch. I think it needs a spacer for the day/date stuff to work properly.

The watch works quite well. I'm almost there but I'm taking a break because my patience is wearing a bit thin.

D

Sit back and have a Carlsberg Special Brew. My favourite lager. 

[Folkvisor]

I had 2 Innis and Gunn IPA's instead. 

I am having a problem with the second hand. It has a long 'tube' on it and it is just too high and rubs on the crystal stopping the watch when the case is tightened. It doesn't seem to want to get pushed on any further.

Should I try to push it on further - I don't like this idea - or should I try to shorten the tube that goes over the second hand arbour? I have no idea how without crushing it. Everything is working except for this.

Maybe they sent the wrong second hand - wrong case or maybe it's the watchmaker...

D

[noirrac1j]

Try slowly filing down the post by holding the hand down with  tweezers. 

 

J

[Folkvisor]

OK, will do. Thank you. It's not like I've never taken the thing apart before.  ;-)

[oldhippy]

Is it a replacement hand or glass?

[Folkvisor]

The case and hands are all new. I am casing a 2836-2 movement I'd been working on earlier for training purposes.

The hour and minute hands are fine but the seconds hand just seems to have a very long tube on it. I don't think I'll need to file much off before it will fit. 

I don't have a jeweller's file. I'm wondering if fine emery paper would work better.

 

[Neileg]

Stick the emery onto a flat piece of wood or plastic such as a lollipop stick. This will help keep the end of the tube square.
Neil


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Folkvisor]

Thanks Neil

I took some off but I need to take more off. The 'bush' is very long on this thing and unfortunately the only way to see if I've taken enough off is to put it together and try it, etc.

Keeps me busy.

If you have an easy way of reattaching a hairspring stud to the balance cock of a Bulova 6CF I'd love to hear it.

There's lots to learn...

Dave

[Folkvisor]

One thing I've learned is that you have to screw the crown onto the stem as far as it will go before measuring what you have to remove.

 

[Geo]

I wrote a detailed posts about fitting crows both standard and screw down, and for some strange reason they have been deleted.  They were pinned to allow easy acces to them.  If you read this Mark, could you please reinstate them please?

[Folkvisor]

I sure could've used this info.