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Different way of cleaning a clock !!!!

clockboy

By clockboy
in All Things Clocks

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frenchie Distinguished Member

frenchie

Posted
Posted

Interesting for sure. I've cleaned metal parts by boiling them before, with dishwasher soap in the water, usually when there is a tough residue (paint, glue...) that needs to be removed. It's very effective and is a great way of cleaning parts with lots of nooks and crevices. 

That being said, I would be weary of using it for clock or watch parts... I'd be afraid that the heat could affect the parts in some way, especially if different metals are involved (different expansion/contraction rates).

But if it works for this guy, and he has waaaaay more experience than I do, then it must be perfectly fine!

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Tmuir Distinguished Member

Tmuir

Posted
Posted
35 minutes ago, clockboy said:

Also it does not look that clean when finished. 

That's what I was thinking.

Even before I got my US cleaner and just soaked parts in my clock cleaning solution they came out cleaner than that.

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oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

What a nightmare of a video. He broke nearly every rule in the book on taking a clock apart.:mad:

After removing the hands and dial, the first thing is let down all the power in the springs. He decided to remove the pallet cock and pallets first, so why didn’t the train wiz round? Very strange, unless it was the editing in the video, never the less it shows what he did and it is wrong. Removing the pins with not a care in the world (I nearly had a heart attack) great care should be taken and each part removed should be inspected for any wear. Never try to undo nuts with nippers they mark the nuts, use smooth jaw pliers or better still use the correct box spanner, which is what I would use. God knows what marks he made while trying to remove the hammer wire and the attachment, the wrestling he had was manly off camera. We could all see he did nothing with the two barrels, never looked at any of the wheels, pivots never checked for wear. The boiling of the parts, what the hell was he thinking of, there are many types of clock cleaning fluids these days with a good cleaning all parts will come up looking like new, his still looked dirty and it was a bloody eye sore. He should be kept away from any type of clock; the man is a bad advert for the trade. :pulling-hair-out::pulling-hair-out::pulling-hair-out:

 

Clockboy please don’t frighten me with any more like this. :D

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oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted
4 minutes ago, clockboy said:

Sorry.  just shows not every vid on YouTube is showing rhe correct methods

There's some real screamers on their of idiots changing batteries using there fingers and metal tweezers. A sure sign they won't last long.  

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    • Neverenoughwatches
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I have read some suggestions that it can cause wear , particularly on the fork horns of a fully treated pallet fork. I've had half a kilo of steriac acid powder on a shelf for almost a year now, might have a little play today with a heater and a jar.  I think its because it gets into their cleaning solutions Mike. Theirs or anyone else's that services the watch next time, or if they need to strip back and rebuild. Could preclean but thats all time for a pro.
    • mikepilk
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By mikepilk · Posted

      As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Any tips to correct a sloppy error?

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I think attaching a nut to the lid to pull it off is the least destructive, any damage damage on the outside is going to an easier fix than any created when trying to push it out from the inside. Scratching up the inside of the lid , mainspring or arbor bearing will be risk. Just my opinion.
    • JohnR725
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • VWatchie
      Epilame / Fixodrop

      By VWatchie · Posted

      Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
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