Hello guys. This is my last project – Seiko 6139-6010 aka Bruce Lee. Watch is from ‘69and it is based on the 6139A movement. Nice shot for the 50th Seiko anniversary of first automatic chronograph development. So please see the pictures below from all restoration proces. It took me 3-4 evenings.
The watch came to me as non runner. Crystal was scratchy with many chips. Dial was dirty and dusty with signs of water damages. Hands lost their lume. Day calendar was loosen and didn’t work properly. Movement was complete but very dirty and dry – there weren’t any residues of old oil in the jewels. Somewhere were signs of water flood. I dissasembled movement and I gave it a bath in ultrasonic cleaner then i’ve assembled and oiled movement. Star disk od date wheel was repaird with small amouth of resin glue. Movement had tend to stop sometimes. Inspection showed that the tiny chip on the bottom pivot of the escape wheel. It was hard to see it. After replacment movement ran as a champ. I polished the hands cause there was rust and gave them new lume. Dial was cleaned. I didn’t touch the lume on the hours indexes. I was affraid to screw up it. I think now it is quite good despite the fact that the lume does not glow. Orginal crystal was polished but I decide that in the future I will replace it. Case and caseback got some polish works only with polishing paste, not too much cause I didn’t want to loose the sharpnes of orginal edges – as usual I did it. Bracelet was matted with abrasive wool. Everything was mix up and combined and there is the result.
After measurments on timegrapher and adjustment it is a nice timekeeper. An amplitude satisfy me as well. Now I am enjoy to wear it.
Please let me know what do you think of this restoration project and about my works on it. I appreciate your comment and your spend time. Cheers folks
I want to show you my lately restoration project. This time it was a Seiko 7015-8000 with blue dial. Watch came to me in very poor condition. As you can see on photos the case was scratchty, crystal was totaly tarnished with deep scratches. Everywhere was dirt, gunk and mud...yuck. Movement was running and stopping with very low amplitude. After opened the caseback I wasn't suprised - it looked like as case - dirt and signs of wear. Rotor was loose and fall out the case. When I take off the crystall I saw dial which had faded Seiko logo, some scratches and hands which lost their lume.
Next step was strip down the movement - everywhere dirt and dry old oil. Time to cleaning bath
Look at this - it's my temporary balance wheel stand - I suspect that from temporary it will be permanent. It does job well.
After cleaning it's time to assembly movement. Now it looks better - maybe not pristine but clean and shiny. New oil here and there and movement starts to run. Now it's time for bench testing before install it to the case.
Meanwhile I took care of the case, dial and hands. Case got some polishing work - not to much cause I didn't want to loose the sharpness of edges. That is effect:
Dial and hands got new lume - I am not perfect in this work but I still learn to do this. Additional the seconds hand was repainted to orange color. I didn't change the crystall but i just polished it with waterpaper and on the end polish paste. Effect suprissed me. Time for the pleasant work - putting this all pieces together into the watch.
I'm a complete newbie and want to learn how to dismantle and re-build watches, specifically Seiko's.
Any suggestions on what movement to use as my first independent project to practice on and make loads of mistakes? Struggling to find recommendations on the different movements to use as a complete beginner and as my skills improve. Should i stick to only Seiko's or broaden my horizons?
Hi all, i have no experience repairing watches but I am a pretty hands on and mechanical guy. I am looking for some advice for my Seiko SNZG15, 7s26 movement. It's a pretty cheap watch so I have a feeling it might not be worth taking to a professional to repair. I will explain what happened and I hope that someone here can offer some advice.
I have worn the watch for three years straight. I was taking it off the other night and it slipped out of my hand and hit the floor face down. The Seiko emblem bent out from the face with the S still flush on the face and the o sticking out a bit, just enough to interfere with at least the hour hand. It's still ticking fine, but in my foolish curiosity I attempted to adjust the time. I don't remember which hand, but one of them came into contact with the emblem and got hung up. I was able to free it, but damage had already been done. Now I can't really adjust the time and the hour and minute hands are out of sink. When I turn the crown the hands don't move hardly at all, if any. I'm thinking that since it is still ticking and keeping time that the actual movement is okay, but maybe some gears related to adjusting the time are damaged. Any thoughts? Can you even get replacement parts for this movement? I have watched some of the videos on this movement and I think that if it were the gears under the calendar and date wheels I might be able to replace them and just remove the emblem.
Hi my friends.
I saw WRT video in youtube. It's so helpful to me. Thank you Watch Repair Channel.
After watching video, I'm looking for watch repair oil and grease.
I want know what oil & grease need to beginner.
In addition, I want know what oil &grease used in video (7s26 repiar video).
If anyone knew about that, help my work.
I will very appreciate any information or links.
Thank you to read my poor writing.
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That's a good point. it's probably a 100 dollar watch in working order. I think I gave 10 for it for practice. I had it partly apart and then go intimidated by the gears and small parts. when I put it back together and tilt it to a 30 degree angle it will tick. lol heck it didn't do that before so i'll take that as a half point win.
A staking tool is used for riveting types of operations, you whack a punch with a small hammer, and voila! You don't really want to do that when removing, inserting, or adjusting jewels. So a jeweling tool is made to smoothly push jewels, and to do that accurately. Some staking sets have jeweling attachments that allow you to do both things, but people often find that it is worth it to have a specialized tool for jeweling work. Cheers!