Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm going to have to try some Ronsonal. I've been using Zenith hairspring cleaner. It seems to work okay, but it's expensive.

Posted

As far as I can ascertain both Ronsonal & Essence of Renata are basically the same, it just that the former can be bought cheaper & in bulk from fleabay. As for Ronsonal or similar having any affect on shellac I have yet to see it, having left pallet forks in the stuff for a week or more, then blasted in the ultrasonic without any ill effects......yet.

Posted

As far as I can ascertain both Ronsonal & Essence of Renata are basically the same, it just that the former can be bought cheaper & in bulk from fleabay. As for Ronsonal or similar having any affect on shellac I have yet to see it, having left pallet forks in the stuff for a week or more, then blasted in the ultrasonic without any ill effects......yet.

 

Yes, Ronsonal or lighter fluid will not attack shellac. Alcohol, however, will dissolve shellac and should be avoided on pallets and roller jewels.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Afternoon Guys,

 

I have just purchased and Tissot with a 2824-2 that needs a refresh.

 

I have repaired 2 of the same movement before but this will be my 1st full strip and re build.

 

What's the best way of cleaning the parts either by hand or ultrasonic?

 

do I need specialist chemicals? bear in mind I wont be doing this all the time :)

 

list of parts would be appreciated.

 

Many thanks

James.

 

post-1206-0-56116000-1439987291_thumb.jp

 

Posted

I think the movement is an ETA 2836-2. If so the strip down and drawings can be found on the ETA web site. It looks like the movement has had water ingress so a complete strip down,clean reassembly & lubrication will be required.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I think the movement is an ETA 2836-2. If so the strip down and drawings can be found on the ETA web site. It looks like the movement has had water ingress so a complete strip down,clean reassembly & lubrication will be required.

Agree with CB that acctually looks like a ETA 2836-2 movement . Tissot only has 21 jewels and has a different rotor .

Edited by rogart63
Posted

That's what was on the listing :) dont matter either way..... guess it's a better movement.

Any recommendations on the cleaning and magnification ??

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Posted

Hi Ginger, the 2.5x magnification should be fine for stripping and assembly, although being old and blind I tend to use a 3.5x. The 8" means you will have roughly 8" of space to work between the visor and movement.

If you are just starting off, I would recommend using Ronsol or Zippo lighter fuel and a small brush to clean the parts. An ultrasonic tank would be a lot better, but I would hold back on that and proprietary cleaners until you find out how keen you are going to be.

Posted

Hi Ginger, the 2.5x magnification should be fine for stripping and assembly, although being old and blind I tend to use a 3.5x. The 8" means you will have roughly 8" of space to work between the visor and movement.

If you are just starting off, I would recommend using Ronsol or Zippo lighter fuel and a small brush to clean the parts. An ultrasonic tank would be a lot better, but I would hold back on that and proprietary cleaners until you find out how keen you are going to be.

Excellent. I guessed as much on the 8".

Good tip about the lighter fluid :) thanks.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Posted

Hi ginger, I recently cleaned a movement that had similar signs of water ingress & I found this video Mark did very useful. Although it's of a 7750 movement,  he does show &  discuss a couple of methods he used to clean the particularly bad areas. I think it's round 14mins in https://youtu.be/BesSK67Mzms. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Agree with CB that acctually looks like a ETA 2836-2 movement . Tissot only has 21 jewels and has a different rotor .

Hi guys. It's defiantly a 2824-2.

a628863941af212424b4cf4baa178d9d.jpg

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Hi guys, I'm looking for watch cleaning fluids, I've not used any before! So I'm looking types & makes of fluids, I've not got a ultrasonic machine yet, so I'll be cleaning parts by hand in glass jars....... Cheers!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by bosstaki
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi guys, I've been absent of late due to decorating to keep the wife happy. But I'd like to discuss a conversation I had with a friend who is the technical manager for a leading Swiss watch manufacturer. I asked him what he felt was the best degreaser to buy at present. He said" without question & nothing can compare, isopropanol which is available from the chemist. I was surprised to hear that they also use it in the final rinse pot during cleaning". He said you can't leave the lid off as it evaporates. He said it's ideal for the last rinse because of this fact.

Has anybody else used this product. I've just order 5ltr off amazon for £15,so pretty cheap.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Posted
Hello!

I wash the parts in neophaline (benzine) but after that the parts sometimes have a thin layer of grease on them. For that I use isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol).

But be very careful - the alcohol dissolves the shellac so don't use it on the pallets and the balance wheel.

 

Bogdan

Posted

Hello!

I wash the parts in neophaline (benzine) but after that the parts sometimes have a thin layer of grease on them. For that I use isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol).

But be very careful - the alcohol dissolves the shellac so don't use it on the pallets and the balance wheel.

Bogdan

Glad you told me that, I was going to drop the whole balance assembly in to degrease the hairspring.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Posted

I too use it as a final rinse when using water based cleaners in my ultrasonic cleaner, not for it's de-greasing qualities, but being alcohol it absorbs any residual moisture and aids drying.

Heed Bogdan's advice and never put anything with shellac in alcohol.

  • Like 1
Posted

I clean the balance and hairspring mounted on the main plate. I rinse off the cleaner by submerging the plate in a basin of water at 50 degrees centigrade for about ten seconds, then blow off the excess water with a puffer. The plate is then placed in a container with alcohol and agitated with the puffer for about thirty seconds. I then remove the plate and place the plate onto a folded piece of kitchen roll to absorb the majority of the alcohol and gently use the puffer to blow air on the balance until it starts to swing correctly. At this point I remove the balance from the plate and store it separately until assembly. It is only at the point of assembly that I remove the balance jewels and clean them separately in lighter fuel.

Posted

I clean the balance and hairspring mounted on the main plate. I rinse off the cleaner by submerging the plate in a basin of water at 50 degrees centigrade for about ten seconds, then blow off the excess water with a puffer. The plate is then placed in a container with alcohol and agitated with the puffer for about thirty seconds. I then remove the plate and place the plate onto a folded piece of kitchen roll to absorb the majority of the alcohol and gently use the puffer to blow air on the balance until it starts to swing correctly. At this point I remove the balance from the plate and store it separately until assembly. It is only at the point of assembly that I remove the balance jewels and clean them separately in lighter fuel.

Thanks for the detailed steps Geo, I assumed that would be the way to go, leaving the balance on the mainplate etc.. Just got confused, as Bogdan suggested not to clean the balance in alcohol.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Posted

Do not soak the balance for any great length of time if you will could have a problem with the roller jewel. That's why I say to dip it only for seconds before puffing it dry.

PS I have been doing this for years when cleaning parts in the ultrasonic tank and have never had a problem.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I would remove the wheels, check for damage and if not damaged, clean. 
    • Thanks for the replies! Here's a photo of the front of the clock and a GIF animation of the movement (exposed by removing the black cap in the centre of the clock). You can see the behaviour of the gears. It's a fairly valuable clock from the 80s (Braun ABW 35). I'm not sure if replacing the movement would diminish the value, so I'd prefer to keep the original parts if it's easy to fix. But since the movement itself is pretty generic, I guess, maybe replacing it wouldn't make any difference with regard to the value of the clock? Or would it? I suppose the value is mostly in the design.
    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
    • Get well soon Old Hippy, torn muscles.,  not good
×
×
  • Create New...