Really Stuck Waterproof Case Back

[bparks]

I just acquired a vintage Elgin wrist watch, it`s an automatic with a waterproof case, and I need to open the case to inspect the movement. Got out my case wrench and started to try to unscrew the back, and it will not budge. It actually sheared off the corners of the inserts for the wrench! Does anyone have any suggestions for opening a waterproof case back like this? I've opened cases that were stubborn to get started, to change batteries, before but this is just not moving at all... Help, please?

[Geo]

Have a read of this thread, there are some unorthodox although effective methods here.

[Gary]

Have you tried this?

 

Sticky ball

[ro63rto]

Have you tried this?

Sticky ball

If he broke a jaxa wrench then that ball won't be much use except for a game of squash [emoji6]

[ro63rto]

I think the only recourse, if you haven't got access to a caseback tool like Geo has, is the superglue a nut to the caseback route.

[JimInOz]

I don't know what sort/brand of caseback wrench you have, but a decent Jaxa style with the correct bits should work.

 

Apply some drops of penetrant oil around the thread seam and wait for a day or two.

Fix the case in a case holder mounted or clamped to a bench.

Use a proper caseback wrench fitted with the correct bits, hold it correctly and apply torque.

 

Good luck with it.

[bparks]

Thanks everyone! I didn't know if I could use a penetrating oil safely on a watch or not, I know I've had good results with that with some gunsmithing I've done. I'll order a new Jaxa wrench and give that a go.

[JimInOz]

When I prescribed drops of penetrating oil, I mean't watchmaker sized drops, not locomotive engineer drops.

 

Put a bit of oil into a small container (egg cup, teaspoon etc) and use a safety pin dipped in the oil to apply the drops to six points around the caseback.

 

The oil will wick along the threads and shouldn't actually seep into the case if done in moderation.

[joelcarvajal]

You might want to try the suggestions here: http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/1944-removing-sicura-screw-back/

[oldhippy]

I know you might think I'm stupid but are you sure it's a screw on back and not one of those imitation looking ones when all it needs is a case knife. 

[rogart63]

Heat is my friend. I had a seamaster case that i could move the caseback on. I applied some heat with a small propan burner. Just so much that the old o-ring let go. Inside was the gooye o-ring. That was the trouble. 

[bparks]

Thank you JimInOz, I figured it couldn't be a lot, last thing you'd want is that getting into the movement. I'll give it a try as soon as the new wrench arrives. To answer oldhippy`s question unfortunately I'm quite sure, it`s not a case of spinning but not coming off it`s just not budging at all. Thanks again to everyone for all your advice. I'll be certain to get some pictures and post the final solution. This definitely gives me a great start.

[Geo]

You might want to try the suggestions here: http://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/1944-removing-sicura-screw-back/

That was the link that should have been in my post above, I obviously screwed up!

Thanks for posting it.

[bparks]

Just a quick update.  Tried using some penetrating oil, let it set in the last couple days, adding two applications.  The new Jaxa wrench arrived today and still no luck.  Moving on to the more drastic bolt approach.

[bparks]

And, now I'm starting to think some joker screwed on the back with red Locktite, the bolt and superglue method failed me too.  I hate to do this, but I think I'm going to need to bring it into a shop just to have the back taken off.

[Geo]

I know you might think I'm stupid but are you sure it's a screw on back and not one of those imitation looking ones when all it needs is a case knife.

This is also a possibility, or it might be a front loader. Please post some good quality close up photos, someone my recognise it and give you the correct answer.

[clockboy]

Are you sure it twists to undo it could be a snap back just designed to look like a screw back style.

[dbals]

I know you might think I'm stupid but are you sure it's a screw on back and not one of those imitation looking ones when all it needs is a case knife. 

Oh-my,

 

I just ran into this with a Jacques Lemans 1215.  Felt like such a dope struggling to turn for 10 minutes  :pulling-hair-out:  got super frustrated.  Had a lovely homebrewed saison after I realized the mistake and opened it with my case knife in 3 seconds!

 

 

Dan B

[Geo]

 Had a lovely homebrewed saison after I realized the mistake and opened it with my case knife in 3 seconds!

Excellent advice Dan, if all else fails...........have a beer! :)

[dbals]

Excellent advice Dan, if all else fails...........have a beer! :)

I looked with my 5x loupe and saw the grove for a case knife- it was a good beer!  honestly- I did at least 5 very hard turns with the jaxa tool before taking the break and looking with the loupe.

[bparks]

These are some photos of the watch, as well as a front shot of it in case someone recognizes the model. I'm not sure how common this one is or isn't because I can't get to the model number on the movement.

Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

[ThatMansMustache]

Here's what I found on another Watchmaking forum regarding the superglue method.  Apparently you need a bigger tool.  That's what she said!  Amiright?

 

"How many people have tried to tell us now that this won't work? lol. We've discussed this before but I always use an aerosol accelerant to speed the setting of the glue. I have modified my holding technique a little though. I now hold the watch in a fielder's glove as I feel it affords a little better protection from shrapnel(either metal or crystal) and laceration. My 1/2" air impact is yet to be defeated on no more than 75 pounds of air pressure. [if any of you are actually gullible enough out there to try this at home, note: The space in the socket above the nut has to be packed with enough hard rubber to prevent the socket from contacting the case back and scarring it while allowing enough depth to engage the flats of the nut.] I suspect that the suddenous/severity/yadda/yadda the of the torque moment is such that it can conquer almost any circumstance it encounters. This is the primary reason I won't place the watch in a case holder in a vise. [That and it will either break the case holder or the lugs or otherwise distort the case.] If you have osteoporisis or are small boned or dimunitive in size - don't attempt this. Also - double check and make sure that the rotation on the wrench is flipped/pushed the right direction before you blast.

All for 25 cents pence worth of material. One last thought - just barely tap that trigger on your impact and then get off of it. "

 

Although it's not stated in this post, presumably you use the largest nut that fits on the flat portion of your caseback.

 

*Disclaimer*  I have personally never tried this technique as I am only a Junior Cadet Watchbreaker.  But I have welded nuts on broken bolts and studs whilst working on cars and it usually works brilliantly.  That and *cough, cough* a lot of heat and penetrating oil.

 

Oh, by the way, Howdy y'all!  Great site, great videos Mark!  Long time lurker, first time poster.  I'm hoping to work my way up to Senior Cadet Watchbreaker in the near future.

 

Cheers as you say,

 

American Dave

[Blacklab]

Welcome American Dave & agree that the superglue method works, just make sure that everything is thoroughly degreased & give the glue time to dry.

[Geo]

Welcome to the forum Dave! I liked your introductory post, it put a big smile on my face. I look forward to more input from you in the future. :)

[oldhippy]

By the look of the watch case more then one person has had fun getting the back off. Has someone had a go with hammer and chisel.