Jump to content

Seiko Watch Help


Recommended Posts

Hi WRT,

I'm totally new to the world of watches. I've had this Seiko SRZ392P1 for a couple of years. I recently took it to a watch repairer to get a battery change and it seems he has lost a part and managed to scratch the backcase in the process. At the moment the crown won't lock in place/wind, soooo, I'm curious to learn how to replace it myself. How would I identify the necessary/missing part? 

IMG_20220319_134720.jpg

IMG_20220319_134705.jpg

IMG_20220319_134650.jpg

IMG_20220319_133419.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So sorry to learn that a watch repairer can be so incompetent.

Looks like he lost the movement ring but the crown looks like it can be screwed back onto the stem. The stem doesn't look like it's broken but to screw it back on can be a little tricky as stem needs to be removed first. If you look carefully, there is a small lever near the stem with a little dimple on it. If you use a sharp tweezer to depress the lever, the stem should be released and can be pulled out.

With the stem in your hand, the crown can be screwed back on. If it still feels loose, a tiny drop of Loctite can be used to secure it.

You can probably check if there are any videos on YouTube to help you out. A picture is worth a thousand words, but a video is worth at least a million.

Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To save the dial and hands, google watch hand removal for relevent tutorial.

We need a clear close up of the movement for possitive identification. Your best just replace the movement with a new one if available. I am not sure if parts to this can  be bought.

Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a video on how to refit the crown.

The OP did not say whether the movement is working or not. So I assumed that it's still working. 

As for the missing movement ring, Cousins has generic spares that can be cut to fit the case but it comes in a bag of 100s. So I'm not sure how you can solve this problem. Maybe if you have a 3D printer, you can print your own.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As I was typing this, @HectorLooi expressed the same idea. It's possible that when a wheel is pushed in the opposite direction it cants a little, or lifts up in its setting. I'd check end shake on everything first, since it's already assembled--I had a Seiko 6139 where one of the upper bridge jewels was pushed up a bit and caused it to behave unpredictably. Then I'd probably take all the wheels out and reinstall one at a time until I found the noise. Also look very closely at the bridge and flat parts of the wheels for wear marks. Look for shiny spots.
    • This sounds like one of the pivot holes has worn and become elliptical. Can you post some photos of the plates?
    • Even after thorough cleaning unfortunately the issue persists. I have made sure that all wheels are perfectly clean, no teeth are chipped, no gunk is left built up on them etc. yet the issue is not gone. When reassembling the movement I of course checked if the wheel train moves freely as that was the suspected cause of the issue before. And the intersting thing is - it does - but only in the "wrong" direction. Driving the wheeltrain by turning the mainspring barrel in the opposite direction as it would turn in normal operation, all wheels spin freely, and continue spinning for a few moments even after I stop providing power by hand. They behave the way I'm used to and have seen with other wheels before. However: When I apply torque in the opposite direction, the power delivery througout the train is not smooth or continuous. While it does turn, there are stages of increased resistance in the train. In addition to this, you can hear a slight "rubbing" sound whenever the trian passes by this point of increased resistance. The sound, to me, is more indicative of a surface rubbing on another surface, rather than the teeth of two wheels getting stuck within each other. Installing the click and putting a wind in the mainspring confirms this same issue, it does unwind and all wheels are powered, yet when the power reserve approaches depletion, it doesn't have enough power to push the wheeltrain past this point of friction. The slightest bump on any of the wheels will free the train, make it spin for however many rotations and then get stuck in the same way. You can do this several times before the power is actually completely depleted. This has really left me dumbfounded. I have inspected all of the wheels, pivots, teeth etc. on the entire wheel train and can't find any traces of dirt, any bent teeth or any warped or out of plane wheels. Besides: If one of the wheels was bent and rubbing up against some other part of the movement during a rotation, shouldn't it be doing this regardless of the direction of the rotation? This is supremely confusing to me and I can't figure out for the life of me why there is increased friction in only ONE direction and not the other. Installing the balance yielded the same result as before the disassembly: the watch runs great for about 50 seconds and then get's stuck when the wheel train get's bogged down. I mentioned earlier that there is a periodic scraping noise that can be heard when the gear train turns fast, this noise is not present when turning the train the opposiste direction. Does anyone have any ideas about which parts of the movement I can check for rubbing? I found no signs of wear or scraping on any of the bridges etc. so what would cause this periodic friction in one direction but not the other? I am very much a novice and have never dealt with such an issue before so I would love to hear what you people think about this. Thanks.
    • For me the second site has been hacked. 
×
×
  • Create New...