Jump to content

Water damage cannot loosen detent screw


Recommended Posts

19 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

A fellow forum member explaine that coke contains phosphoric acid which does clean, so I found some 80% phospheric acid by merc of germany to buy, will test and report to you Gents.

Once soaked I brush with a toothbrush and powederd detergent, little water at first to scrub the powder on parts then brush under tap water. 

Vissin Fluid is the name of the stuff. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Nucejoe said:

Is vissin different or more effective than alum? 

It's Sulfuric Acid. Vissin major distributor is Bergeon. It's toxic as all heck. More so when heated. I just found the MSDS (safety data sheet)

So no, Vissin is not the same as Alum, which seems ALOT less dangerous than Vissin and is available in any stores spice and ingredients section.

507754.pdf

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, MechanicMike said:

It's Sulfuric Acid. Vissin major distributor is Bergeon. It's toxic as all heck. More so when heated. I just found the MSDS (safety data sheet)

So no, Vissin is not the same as Alum, which seems ALOT less dangerous than Vissin and is available in any stores spice and ingredients section.

507754.pdf 481.8 kB · 2 downloads

Thanks for sharring. 

I am to a point that I try every solution I get ma hands on.  

Anything to replace pegging. I feel I die before I can insert anything in so little holes.?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
    • I think attaching a nut to the lid to pull it off is the least destructive, any damage damage on the outside is going to an easier fix than any created when trying to push it out from the inside. Scratching up the inside of the lid , mainspring or arbor bearing will be risk. Just my opinion.
    • yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
    • Hi not found one either yet,  close relative is the 436 and 4361 according to ranff.db.   It gives quire a lot of detail but not as good as the old site.      RANFF.DB.
×
×
  • Create New...