Jump to content

Seiko 2517B Acrylic Crystal broken and stuck


Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I have managed to mess up the removal of the acrylic crystal from the stainless steel case., I now have a broken rim of the crystal (where it fractured from the front of the crystal) still stuck into the recessed groove around the circumference, between the outside and what looks like a tension ring but I think is not, looks part of the case to me. It really is wedged in tight and i fear that if I use metal tools then the case will be damaged. Any ideas how to get that out? Solvent? Burn it and pick out the remains with peg wood? Any other ideas? All help appreciated. Steve.

IMG_20200909_083242915_HDR.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have to remove the bezel before you remove the crystal.

The bezel actually clamps the crystal in place, if you try to push off the crystal with the bezel in place the result is what you now have.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, Marc said:

You have to remove the bezel before you remove the crystal.

The bezel actually clamps the crystal in place, if you try to push off the crystal with the bezel in place the result is what you now have.

Thanks Marc, you are right, just popped the bezel off. I have a new crystal so no worries there. Can I ask is there any reference that tells you if it's a bezel fitted or not as they are sometimes hard to see? Or is it something you have just picked up over the years? Steve.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So far I have managed to work it out on the Seiko's that I have worked on but I believe there is a case parts reference guide that has been shared on here before. I'm not sure whom by but I have a feeling that it may have been @jdm. (My apologies @jdm id I have got that wrong).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

interesting timing for me to see this question. Someone else was looking for a citizen watch guide I tracked it down on the Internet for them. While I was there I saw a reference to the Seiko guide found at the link below you want to download the casing section as it covers lots of different casing scenarios for Seiko.

https://www.thewatchsite.com/threads/seiko-watch-technical-guide-hires-color.1801/#post-8749

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, JohnR725 said:

While I was there I saw a reference to the Seiko guide found at the link below you want to download the casing section as it covers lots of different casing scenarios for Seiko.

As mentioned the Seiko casing guide has been repeatedly uploaded to this forum already. All is needed is to enter "casing guide" with quotes in the search box top right, or here it is again  1982.03 Seiko Case Servicing Guide.pdf

There are also extracts of old case parts list, which one can also find with the same search.

Edited by jdm
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, jdm said:

As mentioned the Seiko casing guide has been repeatedly uploaded to this forum already. All is needed is to enter "casing guide" with quotes in the search box top right, or here it is again  

I thought at one time we even had a library of PDFs? Bad as you're well aware the people asking questions almost never do a search and the people answering questions don't do a search. Sometimes when I'm searching for stuff it will point this discussion group then I will pointed out but usually if I'm doing a search or this case I was looking up something else for someone else who wasn't doing their homework either. But there should be a way of cataloging all the resources and a way for all of us to remember were supposed to look someplace first. One of the things I wonder about is for all the people who attached the PDFs to the discussion how much space is taken up by all these PDFs they keep getting attached over and over again?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

I thought at one time we even had a library of PDFs?

The idea is brought up periodically but my opinion. as I wrote in other discussions is that if it has to be an official topic it would require maintenance care and time that Admin and Mods most likely don't have.

If any members volunteers for that all he has to do is to create a topic and attach the documents organized and renamed as he judges better, so searching will work. Then all the Mods have to do is pin and star the topic so to have some better visibility. That is the same as some in other forums.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I have read some suggestions that it can cause wear , particularly on the fork horns of a fully treated pallet fork. I've had half a kilo of steriac acid powder on a shelf for almost a year now, might have a little play today with a heater and a jar.  I think its because it gets into their cleaning solutions Mike. Theirs or anyone else's that services the watch next time, or if they need to strip back and rebuild. Could preclean but thats all time for a pro.
    • As I'm only cleaning watches in small numbers at home, I pre-clean any significant deposits of old grease and oil before using the cleaning solutions. I scrape off deposits with pegwood and Rodico, and if really dirty, wash parts in naphtha with a brush.  So I'm happy using DX, but can understand why it's avoided by the pros.
    • I think attaching a nut to the lid to pull it off is the least destructive, any damage damage on the outside is going to an easier fix than any created when trying to push it out from the inside. Scratching up the inside of the lid , mainspring or arbor bearing will be risk. Just my opinion.
    • yes the things we read in the universe I did see some where it was either difficult to clean off or it contaminated the cleaning fluid there was some issue with cleaning. I was trying to remember something about grease where as opposed to a substance of a specific consistency they were suggesting it had a base oil with something to thicken it. That conceivably could indicate that the two could separate and that would be an issue. But there is something else going on here that I had remembered so I have a link below and the description of the 9501 notice the word that I highlighted? Notice that word appears quite a bit on this particular page like 9415 has that property all so they 8200 mainspring grease and that definitely has to be mixed up when you go to use it because it definitely separates. just in case you didn't remember that nifty word there is a Wikipedia entry. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy   https://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/greases I wonder if what you're seeing is the boron nitride left behind after cleaning. In other words it's the high-pressure part of the grease and it's probably embedding itself into the metal which is why it doesn't clean off and shouldn't be a problem?
    • Yes and no. I use Moebius 9501 synthetic grease and it is significantly runnier than the Moebius 9504 synthetic grease (and I assume Molykote DX) that I previously used. I haven't seen 9504 spread and it is in my opinion the best grease money can buy. However, my current method of cleaning doesn't remove it from the parts, so that's why I have decided to use the 9501 instead. I believe I read somewhere that Molykote DX too is difficult to clean off. Thinking about it, I'm pretty sure my 9501 grease which expired in June 2022 is runnier now than it was when it was new, but whether new or old it always needs to be stirred before use. So, that's why I treat the parts of the keyless works, cannon pinion, etc. with epilame. That was very thoughtful of you and something that had completely passed me by. Not sure what the epilame will do when it wears off in a non-oiled hole. Anyone?
×
×
  • Create New...