Jump to content

stem crown loctite

luiazazrambo
 Share

Recommended Posts

luiazazrambo Super WRT Addict

luiazazrambo

Posted
Posted

Hi watch and clockmakers,

May I ask for your thoughts about the glue shall be used to fix the crown to the stem? I did my initial research and many mentions loctite, but i found none of the ppl who actually said which loctite. When it was mentioned on this forum loctite 638 it was also stated that probably not ideal. Even in Mark's video loctite was just mentioned as loctite. Is it obvious as which one? As far as I understand it has to be strong enough so the crown would not come off and weak enough to be able to remove the crown? I guess the latter only matters with special crowns not the ones you can buy for 10p, or when you cannot easily replace the stem/crown with vintage watches as they are not available for purchase? Would this one do? : loctite I guess many would use something else than loctite.

Take care and my bestregards,

Lui

jdrichard Distinguished Member

jdrichard

Posted
Posted
Hi watch and clockmakers,
May I ask for your thoughts about the glue shall be used to fix the crown to the stem? I did my initial research and many mentions loctite, but i found none of the ppl who actually said which loctite. When it was mentioned on this forum loctite 638 it was also stated that probably not ideal. Even in Mark's video loctite was just mentioned as loctite. Is it obvious as which one? As far as I understand it has to be strong enough so the crown would not come off and weak enough to be able to remove the crown? I guess the latter only matters with special crowns not the ones you can buy for 10p, or when you cannot easily replace the stem/crown with vintage watches as they are not available for purchase? Would this one do? : loctite I guess many would use something else than loctite.
Take care and my bestregards,
Lui

I use no loctite for pocket watch crowns and stems as the threads are big enough to have a good grip. For watches, the blue medium should do. Any other thoughts out there?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Like 1
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

Loctite blue seems to be the most favourite by watch repairers. I never ever used any type of glue. If the button came away from the stem, it would be the inside thread in the button had worn, or some wear to the thread of the stem or both. So I would replace, what ever was needed. 

  • Like 2
Stevelp Watch Enthusiast

Stevelp

Posted
Posted

I personally have had good experiences with the purple Loctite 222.  Its described as low adhesive and for fasteners that require occasional adjustment so its easy to loosen if all of a sudden the crown would need to be removed.

jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, Stevelp said:

I personally have had good experiences with the purple Loctite 222.  Its described as low adhesive and for fasteners that require occasional adjustment so its easy to loosen if all of a sudden the crown would need to be removed.

Yeah that's what I have and indeed is weak so to suggest that faith is also required for it to hold.

  • Haha 1
rodabod Distinguished Member

rodabod

Posted
Posted

I use 243 which is fairly weak. However, I picked up a pritt-stick style Loctite which is much easier to apply than the liquid, so will start trying that. 

nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted
I use 243 which is fairly weak. However, I picked up a pritt-stick style Loctite which is much easier to apply than the liquid, so will start trying that. 
When I can't put my hands on the 222 I use 243 hahaha. Just don't use 638/648, you'll need a torch to get it loose.
rodabod Distinguished Member

rodabod

Posted
Posted

(Going off topic slightly, but I’ll post this while I remember): Someone asked me yesterday which was the BHI-recommended Loctite for securing clock wheel collets to arbors which is 603 (this is when not soldering). 

  • 4 years later...
dnhb WRT Addict

dnhb

Posted
Posted

I've just tried using some red threadlocker labelled 271 (not loctite) for the first time to secure a replacement pin (opposite the existing boot) & was surprised to find that it hadn't set after 36 hours. I'm wondering if I've not applied it correctly or if the stuff I've got is of poor quality (the blue version, 243, seems ok though).

HectorLooi Distinguished Member

HectorLooi

Posted
Posted

Threadlockers belong to a class of adhesives called anaerobic adhesives. They are resins that polymerize and harden in the absence of oxygen. 

That's why the stuff remains liquid in the bottle but can sometimes set in the narrow tip of the applicator where the surface exposed to air is minimal. 

You can test to see if your bottle is ok by applying some to the threads of a clean bolt and screwing on the nut. It should start to harden in about an hour or less. But only the stuff deep in the threads will set, the excess that is squeezed out to the surface will remain wet and tacky.

Heat also speeds up the set of anaerobic glues. If you are using it in arctic conditions, an accelerator is required.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
dnhb WRT Addict

dnhb

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

Threadlockers belong to a class of adhesives called anaerobic adhesives. They are resins that polymerize and harden in the absence of oxygen. 

Heat also speeds up the set of anaerobic glues. If you are using it in arctic conditions, an accelerator is required.

Thanks for the education, Hector. Clearly, the problem was my ignorance not the red threadlocker!

 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • AndyGSi
      Luminox 7050

      By AndyGSi · Posted

      It's difficult to tell because of the dial ring but I expect it's the highest hand version they do know as a '6' The only way to be sure is to remove the hands and dial and measure the cannon pinion.
    • VWatchie
      What's your thoughts on this Rolex Sea-Dweller, ref. 16600, calibre 3135 project?

      By VWatchie · Posted

      You're 100 % correct! I'm only interested in dissecting a counterfeit movement, and after that, destroying it. As a general rule, I would never buy, wear, or sell a counterfeit watch or movement. In this case, I'm willing to make an exception, as I want to get a feel for what a really good counterfeit feels like so I can better identify counterfeits. Thanks, that will be helpful! I absolutely see where you're coming from, and I'm basically in the same camp. However, I'm willing to make an exception if the purpose is to gain knowledge which will help to better combat counterfeits, and the movement isn't used for any other purpose than dissecting it and finally destroying it. Looking at the link provided by @GuyMontag most of the time we won't have any problem identifying a counterfeit. As experienced repairers of genuine Rolex movements, I would guess we would be able to identify a counterfeit in seconds. However, a well-made super clone of the movement might be harder to detect, and that's why I'm investigating the possibility of getting one. Thank you for your input and for helping clarify the situation — much appreciated. We’re right on topic. I’m currently servicing my second Rolex 3135 movement for a client, and I started this thread to document and discuss any issues or anomalies that may arise during the work. During disassembly, I encountered a few screws that, to me, appeared inconsistent with what I would think are typical Rolex finishing standards. This initially raised concerns that I might be dealing with a high-grade counterfeit or "super clone." Fortunately, those concerns were laid to rest, but the experience highlighted the importance of being able to reliably identify counterfeit components.
    • LittleWatchShop
      Looking to try servicing an old movement

      By LittleWatchShop · Posted

      I suggest FreeCAD as the tool to use for 3D design. It is free open source. For Android phones, I use "Watch Accuracy Timer" For cleaning, just get a class dish and soak the movement parts in fluid.  Dry on lint free paper under an incandescent lamp. Once you decide to invest in the hobby, there are many ideas for DIY cleaning machines and chemicals.  I use traditional spin machines and the expensive L&R fluids.  I have invested $$$$$$ into this "hobby" but I have the means to do crazy stuff. I do exactly what he does for rinse.  I use the L&R Master designed for two rinse jars PLUS an extra rinse jar.  Great video
    • tomh207
      Looking to try servicing an old movement

      By tomh207 · Posted

      Have a look here, quite a good video about cleaning without a machine      Tom
    • tcabot
      Looking to try servicing an old movement

      By tcabot · Posted

      Thank you very much for being extremely helpful and patient. I know a guy who can 3dprint, I can design a spacer I guess. For cleaning with the lighter fluid, is it entirely done by hand, or do I need a jig (spinner?). Any informative links appreciated! Would you have any suggestions for the app? I'll test it on my Slava.
×
×
  • Create New...