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Posted

Hi watch and clockmakers,

May I ask for your thoughts about the glue shall be used to fix the crown to the stem? I did my initial research and many mentions loctite, but i found none of the ppl who actually said which loctite. When it was mentioned on this forum loctite 638 it was also stated that probably not ideal. Even in Mark's video loctite was just mentioned as loctite. Is it obvious as which one? As far as I understand it has to be strong enough so the crown would not come off and weak enough to be able to remove the crown? I guess the latter only matters with special crowns not the ones you can buy for 10p, or when you cannot easily replace the stem/crown with vintage watches as they are not available for purchase? Would this one do? loctite I guess many would use something else than loctite.

Take care and my bestregards,

Lui

Posted
Hi watch and clockmakers,
May I ask for your thoughts about the glue shall be used to fix the crown to the stem? I did my initial research and many mentions loctite, but i found none of the ppl who actually said which loctite. When it was mentioned on this forum loctite 638 it was also stated that probably not ideal. Even in Mark's video loctite was just mentioned as loctite. Is it obvious as which one? As far as I understand it has to be strong enough so the crown would not come off and weak enough to be able to remove the crown? I guess the latter only matters with special crowns not the ones you can buy for 10p, or when you cannot easily replace the stem/crown with vintage watches as they are not available for purchase? Would this one do? : loctite I guess many would use something else than loctite.
Take care and my bestregards,
Lui

I use no loctite for pocket watch crowns and stems as the threads are big enough to have a good grip. For watches, the blue medium should do. Any other thoughts out there?


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  • Like 1
Posted

Loctite blue seems to be the most favourite by watch repairers. I never ever used any type of glue. If the button came away from the stem, it would be the inside thread in the button had worn, or some wear to the thread of the stem or both. So I would replace, what ever was needed. 

  • Like 2
Posted

I personally have had good experiences with the purple Loctite 222.  Its described as low adhesive and for fasteners that require occasional adjustment so its easy to loosen if all of a sudden the crown would need to be removed.

Posted
9 minutes ago, Stevelp said:

I personally have had good experiences with the purple Loctite 222.  Its described as low adhesive and for fasteners that require occasional adjustment so its easy to loosen if all of a sudden the crown would need to be removed.

Yeah that's what I have and indeed is weak so to suggest that faith is also required for it to hold.

  • Haha 1
Posted

I use 243 which is fairly weak. However, I picked up a pritt-stick style Loctite which is much easier to apply than the liquid, so will start trying that. 

Posted
I use 243 which is fairly weak. However, I picked up a pritt-stick style Loctite which is much easier to apply than the liquid, so will start trying that. 
When I can't put my hands on the 222 I use 243 hahaha. Just don't use 638/648, you'll need a torch to get it loose.
Posted

(Going off topic slightly, but I’ll post this while I remember): Someone asked me yesterday which was the BHI-recommended Loctite for securing clock wheel collets to arbors which is 603 (this is when not soldering). 

  • 4 years later...
Posted

I've just tried using some red threadlocker labelled 271 (not loctite) for the first time to secure a replacement pin (opposite the existing boot) & was surprised to find that it hadn't set after 36 hours. I'm wondering if I've not applied it correctly or if the stuff I've got is of poor quality (the blue version, 243, seems ok though).

Posted

Threadlockers belong to a class of adhesives called anaerobic adhesives. They are resins that polymerize and harden in the absence of oxygen. 

That's why the stuff remains liquid in the bottle but can sometimes set in the narrow tip of the applicator where the surface exposed to air is minimal. 

You can test to see if your bottle is ok by applying some to the threads of a clean bolt and screwing on the nut. It should start to harden in about an hour or less. But only the stuff deep in the threads will set, the excess that is squeezed out to the surface will remain wet and tacky.

Heat also speeds up the set of anaerobic glues. If you are using it in arctic conditions, an accelerator is required.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted
6 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

Threadlockers belong to a class of adhesives called anaerobic adhesives. They are resins that polymerize and harden in the absence of oxygen. 

Heat also speeds up the set of anaerobic glues. If you are using it in arctic conditions, an accelerator is required.

Thanks for the education, Hector. Clearly, the problem was my ignorance not the red threadlocker!

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